said by DAJ :
It sounds like the 6" extension cord modification does the trick but I was hoping for something a little more mainstream.
The proper way is to open up the receptacles panel on the generator and put a jumper wire behind the breakers between the neutral and ground using a 10AWG copper wire on the biggest lugs you can find that are linked to neutral and ground.
However, it can be tricky to open up that panel. Mine was sealed pretty tight, and I didn't have a lot of wire lenght to pull out the panel without disconnecting it completely from the generator (Which would have been very tricky as well).
Here's what I did for my mainstream setup:
My transfer switch handles the hot AND the neutral, so when I switch to the generator, the N/G bond in my electrical panel is no longer in the mix.
My generator's ground is still linked to the house ground through a #6 bare copper. That wire goes from the generator's ground lug and is tied by a split bolt to the house's ground conductor (Another #6 bare copper that is tied to my cold water copper pipe).
So with the N/G bond from the electrical panel broken because the transfer switch cuts the neutral off, I had to make a N/G bond at the generator. What I did is jump the neutral and ground from the inside of the L5-20P (plug) that connects to the generator to feed my transfer switch.
That way, when I connect my generator to the house transfer switch, the bond is created. When I disconnect the generator from the house, the bond is broken. No permanent modifications need to be done/undone on the generator itself.
Is it proper? Yup. The N/G bond is as close to the source (Generator) as it needs to be. The N/G bond cannot be removed without disconnecting the generator from the house. The ground bare copper wire still remains connected to the house ground, but that is of no impact, because there is no more bond between ground/neutral. It just helps avoiding static build up on the generator chassis if it is running but not connected to the house.