Find a preamp with 300-ohm input. Then get some of the old school twin lead cable to run from the antenna to the pre-amp. Skip the balun all together. Switch to 75-ohm coax after the preamp on the mast.
Twin lead has some of the best signal interference rejection out there.
You *have* to use stand offs though. The cable can't come anywhere near your mast.
Careful with the extra antennas. Those can induce multipath issues. But most modern tuners are pretty well equipped to handle that kind of thing now.
Find a preamp with 300-ohm input. Then get some of the old school twin lead cable to run from the antenna to the pre-amp. Skip the balun all together. Switch to 75-ohm coax after the preamp on the mast.
Twin lead has some of the best signal interference rejection out there.
You *have* to use stand offs though. The cable can't come anywhere near your mast.
Careful with the extra antennas. Those can induce multipath issues. But most modern tuners are pretty well equipped to handle that kind of thing now.
Meh, I prefer a inline line powered preamp screwed right into the matching transformer on the antenna. -- CompTIA Network+ Certified
Find a preamp with 300-ohm input. Then get some of the old school twin lead cable to run from the antenna to the pre-amp. Skip the balun all together. Switch to 75-ohm coax after the preamp on the mast.
Twin lead has some of the best signal interference rejection out there.
You *have* to use stand offs though. The cable can't come anywhere near your mast.
Careful with the extra antennas. Those can induce multipath issues. But most modern tuners are pretty well equipped to handle that kind of thing now.
Why would someone want to revert back to 1950's technology with 300 ohm twinlead? You'll have ghosting and multi-path freezes and blocking. The preamp goes right at the antenna so there's really no need for twinlead.
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