Technical > Automotive > Timing belt interval

Timing belt interval

When answering this question one has to consider the penalty for error. Is yours an interference engine, or not? If it is, and your timing belt/chain breaks, it essentially destroys the engine.

reply to fartness
Are you talking about the timing chain, or the serpentine belt that drives the water pump, alternator, AC etc.?
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I'm not anti-social, I just don't like stupid people.

reply to fartness
Yes, go with what Steve said. I had an old 1994 Escort with nearly 150,000 miles when I sold it. I believe the timing belt recommendation was at 90,000. I never did it. The engine was a non-interference engine, so I figured I would just take care of it if it ever broke.

If the car was an interference engine, I would certainly do it at regular recommended intervals. Don't gamble when a failure means destroying the engine. For those not familiar with the term, here's an explanation, along with a link to Gates guide to find out if your engine is an interference type. »www.freeasestudyguides.com/inter···ine.html

reply to fartness
Do you like playing Russian Roulette? Because not changing the timing belt when recommended is like playing Russian Roulette. You might win. You might lose. Feeling lucky, mister?

If the water pump is in with the timing belt, change it at the same time.

reply to fartness
Not only is it a issue of mileage but of time. I just did my Acura I was at 110k I didn't realize it was supposed to be done at 105k or 7 years! My car is a 2002. I was really pushing it, maybe I should but a lottery ticket.

reply to fartness
My example is a 2001 Ford Ranger 2.5L engine. I have 165k miles on it. Maybe the people who said don't bother said it because it seems to be a non-interference engine, meaning no harm would be done other than being late to wherever I was going.

reply to fartness
I was 2K miles over the 60K recommended change point on a Toyota I owned. Frigging belt decided to break when I was 70 miles away from home. A major PITA !!!
No engine damage but not very convenient.
Having the belt changed isn't cheap but it's like replacing your roof BEFORE it leaks.
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Roadkill 2015

reply to Warzau

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reply to fartness
Also consider the cost of a tow where you drive, depending on distance from home, an overnight hotel stay may also be required.

Some tows from elevated expressways and the like can be very expensive.
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The talented hawk speaks French.

reply to fartness
As already noted, the biggest thing to consider is if your car has an interference engine or not. To condense down the explanation: On an interference engine, the intake/exhaust valves and the cylinders will occupy the same physical space but not at the same time. This is where the timing belt comes in and keeps the timing of these components in check so they don't collide. If it breaks, there is a very great chance they will and would leave a VERY expensive repair. On a non-interference engine, these components will never occupy the same space so if the timing belt should break, worst case you are simply stranded and need towed back and just get the belt replaced and be on your way.

With that said, in both cases I would get it replaced at the manufacturer preferred intervals simply for preventative maintenance (in general these intervals are previously determined mileage points where the belts will BEGIN to wear out. While it could go on for much longer without breaking, it is chancing it and is cheaper to replace ahead of time), but a non-interference engine is a MUCH less costly repair should it be postpoined and break.

And as another prior post also mentioned: On many vehicles, the water pump is in the same cavity of the engine as the timing belt. Given the difficulty to get to that area, it is a very good idea to replace the water pump when doing the timing belt (once again, for preventative maintenance). The larger chunk of your bill is on the labor here so doing the job once for two parts ends up cheaper than going in twice for each.
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I swear, some people should have pace-makers installed to free up the resources. Breathing and heart beat taxes their whole system, all of their brain cells wasted on life support.-two bit brains, and the second bit is wasted on parity! ~head_spaz

reply to Juggernaut

reply to fartness
I'm scheduling a timing belt kit replacement this week. For whatever reason, the maintenance in the owner's manual recommended a timing belt at 90,000 miles if the car was used as a taxi, police vehicle or sat idling for extended periods of time. Otherwise, there was no mileage recommendation.

I didn't have the original belt changed until 215,000 miles (I must have been lucky!).

I now have 334,000 miles on the engine and believe the water pump is seeping a bit. I don't see fluid on the floor, but occasionally get a whiff of coolant when I raise the hood on a hot day when it's idling.

So, off to Eddie's this week for a timing belt kit and ancillary belts, hoses, filters and fluids.

Disclaimer: Your engine is different from mine, so I'd say follow the recommendations of previous posters who are more familiar with your engine.

I'd add that any belts, hoses, seals, fluids and filters that are encountered in the job be replaced with new stuff. No sense wasting labor, since those parts are much cheaper than the labor and hassle of replacing them, especially if they fail when you're out in the boonies.

I won't get into the oil change discussion. I know my policy works, and in the end everyone has different opinions which will never change.
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Buckle Up. It makes it harder for the aliens to suck you out of your car.

You're vehicle appears to have been well cared for. My work van, a 2001 Chevy, is creeping up on 285K now and is running very well. Since it is an important tool tool of my job, it is well cared for. I won't discuss the oil thing either, other than to say the interval is far wider than the old school 3000 standard.

reply to Doctor Olds
Thanks Doc, I do know what they are.

I was asking him as he seems to be quite inexperienced about maintenance (see the oil overfill thread), so I wanted to make sure there was no misunderstanding on the subject before answering.
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I'm not anti-social, I just don't like stupid people.

reply to lew_b

reply to fartness
»www.amazon.com/Goodyear-GTK0276-···tomotive

Is that ok to buy? 2001 Ford Ranger with a 2.5L engine.

How many hours of labor would a shop likely charge to do spark plugs? What about spark plug wires?

reply to Lurch77

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