 alkizmo join:2007-06-25 Pierrefonds, QC kudos:1 | Cheap tubing to run network/coax from basement to attic Sometime soon I will be running a bunch (about 4) cat6 cables from the basement to the attic (2 floors up) so I can drop them back down inside the bedroom closets. I will be adding one or two coax RG6 to the mix (reach an attena on the roof and maybe one TV, or a second antenna, long story).
I have a near straight run from the networking panel in the basement to the attic by following a drain stack that goes to the upstairs bathroom (and the vent stack to the attic).
To make it easy to run new wires in there in the future, I want to put a very large conduit/pipe from the network panel to the attic.
If I buy 2" electrical PVC, I'd spend about 100$ on conduits and fittings. If I buy 2" central vacuum piping, I'd spend 20$ max.
I'm thinking the central vacuum piping will offer the pathway that I want, but I might be forgetting a critical difference? It's not like I want real physical protection. |
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 | I just used vacuum pvc to do mine. |
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 John GaltForward, MarchPremium join:2004-09-30 Happy Camp kudos:5 | reply to alkizmo If you're using the tube as a chase, then no problem. The circuits are low voltage, so you have a lot of latitude in the use of materials in that respect, especially in a single family home.
You might look at 1" ENT (smurf tube) as another option. Listed for the use and Code acceptable. Three RG-6 and six Cat5 would fit in a 1"... |
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 mattmagPremium,ExMod 2000-03 join:2000-04-09 NW Illinois kudos:3 | reply to alkizmo Smurf Tubing.
AKA "ENT" for Electrical Non-Metallic Flex Tubing. You can use the nifty snap-connectors for transitions into boxes, etc. I don't think central vac hose would be as friendly. 
Lowe's Depot has the Carlon version, about a buck a foot for the 1" stuff. You could make two runs with it, or it comes in 2" sizing but that would probably be a trip to the electrical supply house.
»www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R···l-4Y2g80 |
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 alkizmo join:2007-06-25 Pierrefonds, QC kudos:1 | reply to John Galt Smurf would be expensive as well because I don't see how three RG6 and 6 cat6 would fit in 1". (So I'd need two runs).
Anyway, the run is pretty straight, except for one section where it will need to do an S, but that's an area I can access by removing cealing tiles in my entrance. So if you guys tell me central vac is fine for a chase, then that is what I will use. 2" is nice and fat! And it's 3$ per 10 foot section  |
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 tschmidtPremium,MVM join:2000-11-12 Milford, NH kudos:8 | reply to alkizmo If you have the room have you thought about 4" thin-wall PVC drain pipe. That stuff is pretty cheap.
Wiring needs tend to grow so if you are going to install a chase do it a large a possible to accommodate future needs.
/tom |
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 kherrPremium join:2000-09-04 Collinsville, IL | reply to alkizmo Sometimes when we plumb a house, the owner has us run PVC DWV for conduits. No reason to use full fledged electrical type PVC. |
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 alkizmo join:2007-06-25 Pierrefonds, QC kudos:1 | reply to tschmidt Doubt I can fit 4", but I could do 2x 2" 2" can accomodate a lot of wiring, it's 4 times the volume of a 1" pipe.
If SOMEHOW I reach the max I can fit in that pipe, then I'd use a network switch in whichever room is being greedy for network 
Anyway, by the time my kids reach an age where they use their own internet devices, it will be all wifi/cellphone networking (it already is if you think about it). Ah technology grows so fast, faster than kids.
said by kherr:Sometimes when we plumb a house, the owner has us run PVC DWV for conduits. No reason to use full fledged electrical type PVC. No reason to use full fledge DWV  Central vacc tubing is 3$ a 10 footer, fittings are just as cheap. That stuff is super light and has some flexibility to it. Last time I bought some to extend my central vac in my basement, the cashier didn't believe the price scan for such a "big" pipe. Made me waste 5 minutes to get a clerk to confirm it. |
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 | im a stickler for "doing it right" when at a clients site, but i have used vac tube in my own home to run network cable, does the job and is cheap |
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 PSWired join:2006-03-26 Annapolis, MD | reply to alkizmo Where do you get this stuff? Don't think I've ever seen it in the bog box stores around here. |
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 guppy_fishPremium join:2003-12-09 Lakeland, FL kudos:1 | reply to alkizmo Whatever you choose, make sure you fire block the tube and the chase area |
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 alkizmo join:2007-06-25 Pierrefonds, QC kudos:1 | said by PSWired:Where do you get this stuff? Don't think I've ever seen it in the bog box stores around here. At the central vacuum section. Though the HD I go to doesn't have high ceilings at the central vac section, so they put the 10 footers in the plumbing section.
said by guppy_fish:Whatever you choose, make sure you fire block the tube and the chase area What? |
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 LazManPremium join:2003-03-26 canada | reply to alkizmo Basically, caulk around where the tube penetrates the floor, bottom, and top plates; and close up the open ends of the tube itself, using rock wool and caulking or duct-plug; so that smoke and fire can't spread up the chase... |
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 | reply to alkizmo said by alkizmo:said by guppy_fish:Whatever you choose, make sure you fire block the tube and the chase area What? These products or other brands with similar properties >>> »www.hilti.ca/holca/page/module/p···d=-38866 |
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 | reply to alkizmo said by alkizmo:If I buy 2" electrical PVC, I'd spend about 100$ on conduits and fittings. HUH??? Where are you shopping??? |
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 alkizmo join:2007-06-25 Pierrefonds, QC kudos:1 | HD
But for 4 x 10 footers, it's already like 80$ + fittings you get 100$
2" is really expensive comparatively to 1 1/4" and smaller. |
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 nunyaWho is John Galt?Premium,MVM join:2000-12-23 O Fallon, MO kudos:8 Reviews:
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| reply to alkizmo Yeah. I'd like to know where the f___ you've been shopping for PVC conduit?
It's $6.25 for 10 feet... and the fittings aren't that expensive. At least with electrical conduit, you'd have proper radius connectors for pulling wire (unlike plumbing and CV products).
I'd be very concerned of running ANY plastic or PVC product through 2 level penetrations due to fire issues. I guess plumbers get (got) away with it all the time. Now they have to put intumescent collars at each floor. At the very least, I would use some type of intumescent product at each penetration. -- If someone refers to herself / himself as a "guru", they probably aren't. |
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 guppy_fishPremium join:2003-12-09 Lakeland, FL kudos:1 Reviews:
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| reply to alkizmo said by alkizmo:said by guppy_fish:Whatever you choose, make sure you fire block the tube and the chase area What? »www.chinoaz.net/dev_services/pdf···tops.pdf
Its to prevent the feeding of a fire from another oxygen source, like the attic feeding a fire in the basement using the chase as the source |
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 alkizmo join:2007-06-25 Pierrefonds, QC kudos:1 | reply to nunya
said by nunya:Yeah. I'd like to know where the f___ you've been shopping for PVC conduit? Canada » www.homedepot.ca/product/schedul···n/954458USA » www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Ele···pgYZG3zgCanada sucks balls on many consumer aspects. said by nunya:I'd be very concerned of running ANY plastic or PVC product through 2 level penetrations due to fire issues. I guess plumbers get (got) away with it all the time. Now they have to put intumescent collars at each floor. At the very least, I would use some type of intumescent product at each penetration. I guess they did. Old 1964 construction. Anyway, aside from the basement, the two other floors are completely opened to each others through the open stairway. Unless the fire starts within that crawl space, fireblocking won't do squat, but hey those fireblock spray foam cans cost nothing and will still allow me to block drafts (Which is what I worry most about). |
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 | Are you JOKING me?? You pay $19 for a stick of 2" PVC??? OUCH!! |
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