Topic 'Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home' in forum 'Home Improvement' - dslreports.com

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 25 Dec 2012 06:30:16 EDT

The E posted : Just wanted to clear up some misconceptions regarding coax.

RG59 is coming to the end of its useful life. With newer digital equipment continuing to use higher and higher frequency ranges, the signal loss on RG59 starts to become a problem - especially on longer runs. That being said, RG59 can still be used for a few years yet, provided some details are taken care of.

- Replace F-connectors! Most old RG59 have the crappy crimp on or low quality compression fittings. Replace these and you'll save yourself quality issues. Newer gen connectors ensure the signal integrity is solid; no leaky in, no leaky out.

- Replace F-81 connectors (wall plates). After a couple decades of use, the pins that bite and hold the stinger start to wear providing a less than adequate connection. This can cause all sorts of issues; pixelization on higher band HD broadcasts, modem flapping, etc.

If you take care of just those two things, your RG59 can continue to service most of your TV/ satellite services.

- 100% copper - better or worse? No effing difference!
RF travels over the outside or "skin" of the copper… between the copper and dielectric material. Look up "the skin effect". Copper clad steel is 110% A-OK to use…. don't let anyone tell you different.

- Quad Shield… necessary? NO! (well usually not). Dual or tri-shield is just fine in 99% of residential and commercial environments. The only time quad is important is if your run is in a truly "noisy" environment. If you get a deal on it there's certainly no harm in using it, other than it's thicker and a bit of a PITA to terminate w/F-connectors.

I am a "cable guy" and take pride in quality installs. I install TV/phone/internet services, drops and rewires. I'm not in the league of crappy installers I hear about on this forum! Hope this helps. :)
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Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 24 Dec 2012 09:48:35 EDT

tschmidt posted : Does not really matter too much where you locate it. The considerations revolve around how easy it is to pull cable and do you have enough room to locate everything and work once it is installed.

By way of example in our house the phone wiring terminates under the electric meter on east basement wall. That was a planned wiring closet when we built the house. LAN wiring, installed years later, terminates on top of the water heater in the middle of the basement in pretty cramp location. But that was the preferred location, near my basement office and minimized drilling holes in beams. We have a post and beam house, running cable can be a challenge.

Having a dedicated circuit is nice but unless you have some serious equipment typical home LAN does not draw much power. Ours is powered by the stair lighting, fire alarm circuit. All critical stuff you don't want to be off.

I'm a fan of plywood backboards rather then residential wiring cabinets: cheaper, more flexible, and give you plenty of room to add stuff. Once you have a LAN the equipment seems to multiply like rabbits, or least it did for me. :)

Enjoy you project.

/tom

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 24 Dec 2012 09:18:47 EDT

hambone42 posted : OK, I'm getting ready to pull cables. As I was looking around the basement yesterday, it occurred to me that it might be smarter to locate the backboard and cable terminations on an interior wall that's on the other side of the staircase leading to the basement. The only issue I can see with that location is that it's closer to the HVAC system. Other than being a slightly (physically and electrically) noisier environment, is there any reason not to consider this location? It would actually be a more centralized location than mounting to the outside basement foundation wall.

Thanks...
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Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Sat, 01 Dec 2012 03:42:34 EDT

Beezel posted : Yea Cat 7 is still in it's infancy.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Fri, 30 Nov 2012 16:37:44 EDT

leibold posted :

said by Jack_in_VA:

said by Beezel:

Also there is CAT 7.

The Monster snake oil salesmen are busy.

:-)

I didn't want to go there. You are correct that ISO/IEC 11801 did define Class F / Cat 7 and even Cat 7A already. However I don't think EIA/TIA is including Cat 7 yet. Cat 7 cable was intended for 10Gbps networking but requires special connectors (either GG45, ARJ45 or TERA) in order to meet the specification. As a result most vendors stick with Cat 6A and "RJ45" connectors which are sufficient for 10Gbps. Whether Cat 7 or Cat 7A will become popular with some future network protocol is yet to be determined.
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Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Fri, 30 Nov 2012 09:11:31 EDT

jeffmoss26 posted : mmm that's good kool aid.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Fri, 30 Nov 2012 07:45:12 EDT

Jack_in_VA posted :

said by Beezel:

Also there is CAT 7. »www.frys.com/product/5790132?sit···_RSLT_PG ;)

Cat-7

The Monster snake oil salesmen are busy. :D

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Fri, 30 Nov 2012 04:14:07 EDT

Beezel posted :

said by leibold:

said by mitchell:

You've had a lot of suggestions but many didnt address the Cat 5 vs. 6 or 6e issue.

Perhaps because there is no such thing as 6e ? ;)
Currently available twisted pair cables are:
Cat 3 (or III), Cat 5, Cat 5E, Cat 6 or Cat 6A.

Both Cat 5E and Cat 6A are the result of adding more performance criteria (or tightening the limits) on previously released cable specifications (Cat 5 and Cat 6) in response to the needs of new high speed communication protocols. The enhanced version of Cat 6 is often mistakenly called Cat 6E (probably because of the experience with Cat 5 and Cat 5E).

Also there is CAT 7. »www.frys.com/product/5790132?sit···_RSLT_PG ;)

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Thu, 29 Nov 2012 13:36:58 EDT

leibold posted :

said by mitchell:

You've had a lot of suggestions but many didnt address the Cat 5 vs. 6 or 6e issue.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Thu, 29 Nov 2012 13:25:38 EDT

StillLearn posted :

said by hambone42:

I don't have any way of testing the existing RG-59 other than trying to jury-rig an OTA setup -- and that won't provide a useful test for the upper UHF frequencies. At the very least, though, I do need to trace the existing RG-59 runs and test for continuity. Can anyone recommend a device for that purpose? If all else fails, I guess I could use a 6V battery and a buzzer. :mad:

An alternative would be to put a terminator (with a barrel) on one end of a cable, and check the other with an ohm meter. The meter should read about 75 ohms. If the cable goes through a splitter, then you shouldn't read 75 ohms.

The battery might fry a splitter, unless you limit the current with a resistor.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Thu, 29 Nov 2012 13:24:41 EDT

Killa200 posted :

said by alkizmo:

Well, if he goes cat5e, he should at least buy keystones and jacks for cat6. They cost the same anyway and perform a bit better.

That way, WHEN 10gbase-t becomes a consumer standard and his more distant jacks need an upgrade to cat6, he won't need to replace the jacks.

Cat5e should be able to take 10gbase-t but for shorter runs.

Issue with using 6 keystones with 5e cable is the standard 6 cable is a thicker gauge wire, which could lead to loose terminations when using other cable than 6.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Thu, 29 Nov 2012 12:45:29 EDT

alkizmo posted : Well, if he goes cat5e, he should at least buy keystones and jacks for cat6. They cost the same anyway and perform a bit better.

That way, WHEN 10gbase-t becomes a consumer standard and his more distant jacks need an upgrade to cat6, he won't need to replace the jacks.

Cat5e should be able to take 10gbase-t but for shorter runs.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Thu, 29 Nov 2012 12:14:43 EDT

psiu_nws posted : Well, it sounds like the RG-59 upgrade will be a long term project.

As for Cat-5e vs Cat-6, I would use your existing Cat-5e cable. And in the future, use more Cat-5e. If you mix Cat-levels, it is only as good as the weakest link (which in the case of Cat-5e, is pretty dang good). Gb LAN connections? You should be okay for awhile ;)

I would consider building an awning of sorts for the board to keep any water leaks out of the way, but have it in an easier to access location for yourself.

Fishing walls? Good luck ;) As mentioned, it can go a million different ways, and only 3 of them are easy and quick :P

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Wed, 28 Nov 2012 19:58:21 EDT

mitchell posted : You've had a lot of suggestions but many didnt address the Cat 5 vs. 6 or 6e issue.

You have the Cat5 right? Use the heck out of it and if you run out then consider 6 or 6e for the next box...

I know of a VoIP/RoIP system that spec'd Cat6 but the actual thru-put was not near GigE speeds, so the company said Cat5 is fine... I don't expect to see that need in my house for several years, if ever...

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Wed, 28 Nov 2012 13:50:19 EDT

hambone42 posted : Thanks for all your suggestions. Unfortunately, I don't have the luxury of being able to allocate multiple weekends to the job as the boss expects to move in and have everything ready by Christmas. :o I guess I'll have to reuse the RG-59 in the short term. My long-term plan is to have two cable connections at each TV location -- one for CATV, the other for OTA -- in addition to one or two .

I don't have any way of testing the existing RG-59 other than trying to jury-rig an OTA setup -- and that won't provide a useful test for the upper UHF frequencies. At the very least, though, I do need to trace the existing RG-59 runs and test for continuity. Can anyone recommend a device for that purpose? If all else fails, I guess I could use a 6V battery and a buzzer. :mad:
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Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 21:06:12 EDT

cypherstream posted : I don't see what the fuss is about the blue barrels (3 GHz swept). I needed them for wall plates anyway and they are far superior than the 1979 gold deteriorated ones they were on my old wall plates. Considering the cost difference is so minor and a bag of them can be purchased cheap, might as well.

I know nothing is 3 GHz today, but what about in the future? Vyyo made a 3 GHz overlay for CATv but it didn't take off. Sure all switched digital video and channel bonding looks like we won't need more than 1 GHz on coax, but you never know.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 15:26:37 EDT

Liberty posted :

said by Killa200:

said by Liberty:

100% of sat installations REQUIRE 3gig swept/solid copper coax - no exceptions allowed

A statement I and my co-workers can prove wrong everyday when i come into work and visit the random house of the day in town to tear down their satellite service and put in cable. The only 100% requirement i seem to find is that the contractor use as much existing wiring as possible, weather the stuff be good or not. I swear if the satellite contractors in this region could crimp and f fitting on twin lead, they'd use it.

Around here we usually refuse to re-use sat wiring, as when they do run new stuff, it is the cheapest stuff we have ever seen. The stinger doesn't seem to hold up for any amount of time in the cable once it is put in a compression fitting. The core also seems to have little to no rigidity, and it will easily bend over itself, basically ruining the cable at that spot.

Unfortunately you are too often correct
There are legions of poorly paid subs who cut every corner they can to maximize their meager pay
Cheapo cable is a frequent corner to cut
100% of installations are infact REQUIRED to use premium cable - not the same thing as every installer DOES use it

These days, when returns to stockholders are vastly more important than maximizing customer satisfaction, quality control budgets are among the first to be cut

The 'easy to bend' stinger is actually a potential indicator of superior cable
It implies solid copper rather than plated steel - quite a bit more expensive than plated stinger

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 15:12:52 EDT

Liberty posted :

said by
I guess I'll have to stop watching my Directv as it can't be working without 3 GHz swept/solid copper coax and 3 GHz barrel connectors.

quote:
100% of sat installations REQUIRE 3gig swept/solid copper coax - no exceptions allowed

How about posting the info from Directv and Dish stating that. I agree that RG-6 is a requirement but 3 GHz

quote:
It's important that you use RG6 cable due to the frequency of the digital signals it must carry. RG6 has the correct impedance (75 ohms) and acceptable signal losses at 950 to 1450 MHz.

Source: »support.directv.com/app/answers/···g-cables

950 to 1450 MHz is a long way from 3 GHz.

It never ceases to amaze me the statements I see on this thread.
[/BQUOTE :

May I be so bold as to suggest that one can try to make a point without being an assh*le in the process?

I think you may find a bit of helpful info at this link - be sure to read the complete thread as some later comments will help in understanding what we are REQUIRED to do.

»forums.directv.com/pe/action/for···10525897

Yes there are sub contractors who don't give a 'bleep' and cut corners and don't follow the rules
Less than optimal service is often the result...

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 14:54:33 EDT

Liberty posted : "Let's see. I have the latest "new generation" sat internet service and I don't have 3 GHz coax or connectors. But it's working. According to you it won't work but I'm using it right now"

You have Exede or Gen4 Hughesnet?

If so, do yourself a favor and call support and report it - they will send a corporate QC person out to remedy your faulty installation
Your system could be just barely passing
It is degrading your service and the sub who did your work will likely have their installer ID canceled

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 11:33:54 EDT

Killa200 posted :

said by Liberty:

100% of sat installations REQUIRE 3gig swept/solid copper coax - no exceptions allowed

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 10:57:44 EDT

Jack_in_VA posted :

said by Liberty:

3 gig connectors DO make a difference - whether you believe it or not - for many digital signals

In the case of the new generation satellite internet services, a non 3 gig barrel connector can and will prevent the automated quality check system to fail, preventing the completion of the installation process

Let's see. I have the latest "new generation" sat internet service and I don't have 3 GHz coax or connectors. But it's working. According to you it won't work but I'm using it right now

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 10:54:19 EDT

Jack_in_VA posted :

said by Liberty:

You are entitled to your opinion Jack

I have been working in the field for well over a decade and am speaking from real world experience

I am sure there are plenty of exceptions to any 'rule' but doesn't change the facts that certain materials are not engineered to perform certain tasks - even if they sometimes can/do

fwiw - sat tv receivers use 13 and 18 volts
100% of sat installations REQUIRE 3gig swept/solid copper coax - no exceptions allowed

Around a decade? Ok

I guess I'll have to stop watching my Directv as it can't be working without 3 GHz swept/solid copper coax and 3 GHz barrel connectors.

quote:
100% of sat installations REQUIRE 3gig swept/solid copper coax - no exceptions allowed

How about posting the info from Directv and Dish stating that. I agree that RG-6 is a requirement but 3 GHz

quote:
It's important that you use RG6 cable due to the frequency of the digital signals it must carry. RG6 has the correct impedance (75 ohms) and acceptable signal losses at 950 to 1450 MHz.

Source: »support.directv.com/app/answers/···g-cables

950 to 1450 MHz is a long way from 3 GHz.

It never ceases to amaze me the statements I see on this thread.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 09:45:44 EDT

Liberty posted : 3 gig connectors DO make a difference - whether you believe it or not - for many digital signals

In the case of the new generation satellite internet services, a non 3 gig barrel connector can and will prevent the automated quality check system to fail, preventing the completion of the installation process

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 09:37:51 EDT

Liberty posted : You are entitled to your opinion Jack

I have been working in the field for well over a decade and am speaking from real world experience

I am sure there are plenty of exceptions to any 'rule' but doesn't change the facts that certain materials are not engineered to perform certain tasks - even if they sometimes can/do

fwiw - sat tv receivers use 13 and 18 volts
100% of sat installations REQUIRE 3gig swept/solid copper coax - no exceptions allowed

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 08:21:47 EDT

Jack_in_VA posted :

said by Liberty:

Rg59 will not work for satellite tv very long
The stinger is too small gauge to carry the voltage - I have seen many burned out stingers on sat tv installations
RG59 also is far more leaky to some of the frequencies used with digital - it was designed for off air use decades ago
If you ever want sat tv, the installer is gonna wrap your house with 3gig swept RG6, with solid copper stinger (not plated steel stinger)

99+% of cat6 installations don't meet 6 specs, you got to be really good at terminating and use top grade connectors to pass more than 100 megs - weak link in cat6 is often the connectors
Why spend the $$ if you are not going to be pushing greater than 100 meg speed files around?
cat5 is way more than adequate for all but most super heavy duty, huge file transfers between work stations

Interesting logic but mostly incorrect.

Burned out stringers because of voltage? 13 volts at very low amperage for the LNB's is not likely to burn out much of anything.

quote:
the installer is gonna wrap your house with 3gig swept RG6, with solid copper stinger (not plated steel stinger)

3 GHz? RG-6 solid copper. Ok what source is this 3 GHz coming from?

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 08:15:35 EDT

Jack_in_VA posted :

said by nunya:

3 GHz barrels. Wanna buy a bridge?
At least they aren't charging "Monster Cable" prices, but they sure are using Monster Cables schtick. I'm surprised they aren't gold plated too.

Like Monster they don't need to gold plate them as they can sell them anyway. What a joke. 3 GHz connectors.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Tue, 27 Nov 2012 04:40:01 EDT

Bob posted :

said by nunya:

There's crap RG59, and there's good RG59

My 30 year old RG-59 has a braid and foil shield, which I suppose is a good sign. But there are no markings that I can find on the jacket.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 22:50:17 EDT

nunya posted :

This is mostly untrue. The gauge of the center conductor is going to depend on the brand and manufacturer of the cable.
The same goes with the braid or shielding. There's crap RG59, and there's good RG59 - Just like there's crap RG6 and good RG6. You can't just put a blanket statement out that all RG59 is bad.
That's like looking at a Kia and then assuming all cars are crap based on that Kia.
--
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Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 22:07:54 EDT

Liberty posted : Rg59 will not work for satellite tv very long
The stinger is too small gauge to carry the voltage - I have seen many burned out stingers on sat tv installations
RG59 also is far more leaky to some of the frequencies used with digital - it was designed for off air use decades ago
If you ever want sat tv, the installer is gonna wrap your house with 3gig swept RG6, with solid copper stinger (not plated steel stinger)

99+% of cat6 installations don't meet 6 specs, you got to be really good at terminating and use top grade connectors to pass more than 100 megs - weak link in cat6 is often the connectors
Why spend the $$ if you are not going to be pushing greater than 100 meg speed files around?
cat5 is way more than adequate for all but most super heavy duty, huge file transfers between work stations

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 21:32:58 EDT

nunya posted : 3 GHz barrels. Wanna buy a bridge?
At least they aren't charging "Monster Cable" prices, but they sure are using Monster Cables schtick. I'm surprised they aren't gold plated too.
--
If someone refers to herself / himself as a "guru", they probably aren't.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 21:18:22 EDT

cypherstream posted : What I did was just use Cat 5e since it was plentiful and its more than enough for a small residential house. Perhaps a large office setting with longer runs I would go Cat 6 but why bother for residential.

I ran RG6 Quad Shield wherever I ran the Cat 5e. Since I was pulling cable anyway I just taped the RG6 to the bundle at the same time. There's 3 outlets in the house that are RG-59 still and they work fine with the full DirecTV lineup and Multi-Room DVR. So if its a new outlet, sure pull RG6 with the Cat 5, but you don't need to really go out of your way to replace existing RG-59 unless there's major issues. I replaced the crimp fittings behind the wall plates on my RG-59 outlets with PPC-EXL Plus compression fittings and replaced the barrels and wall plates with the newer blue (3 GHz rated) barrels. Everything works fine. You can get the compression tool at your local home improvement store if you need it right away, or you can find one online like e-bay or a satellite supply store.

Edited to add link samples.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 21:16:07 EDT

ArgMeMatey posted :

said by nunya:

Fishing walls is a PITA. I've been doing it professionally for decades, and it never seems to get any easier. It's always a great unknown. Personally, I hate it. Sometimes everything is just as smooth as silk. Other times, a job that you think would be 10 minutes ends up taking 3 hours.

I'm thinking a dream job would be fishing where the terms are time & materials. I would hate to bid a job where fishing would be required.

said by nunya:

Every few years, someone comes out with some new product that's supposed to be the panacea of wall fishing. For instance d'versabits: ...
I still carry them on the truck, but they rarely see daylight.

I agree. Besides a fish tape, most of the tools for fishing can be found around the house or any hardware store. I have a balloon-framed house so I've had it easy. Working in newer construction, it's usually easier to cut a hole in the wall and patch it. I have never used a really long bit, just a wood bit in an 18" extension with my arm stuck as far into the wall as possible.
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Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 21:03:49 EDT

nunya posted : #1) RG-59. While RG-59 isn't as desirable as RG-6, it doesn't mean a total gut job is required. If it was done neatly and the runs aren't too long (say over 100'), then I would probably leave it be until a remodel.

#2) You already have cat 5e. Cat 6 is overkill for 99.5% of us. I'd use what you have on hand first.

Fishing walls is a PITA. I've been doing it professionally for decades, and it never seems to get any easier. It's always a great unknown. Personally, I hate it. Sometimes everything is just as smooth as silk. Other times, a job that you think would be 10 minutes ends up taking 3 hours.
Every few years, someone comes out with some new product that's supposed to be the panacea of wall fishing. For instance d'versabits: When those came out, they were touted as the "be-all end-all". It turns out they have a propensity to go wild in the walls and are also attracted to pipes and wires in much the same way as tornadoes are attracted to trailer parks.
I still carry them on the truck, but they rarely see daylight.
--
If someone refers to herself / himself as a "guru", they probably aren't.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 15:31:44 EDT

ArgMeMatey posted :

said by hambone42:

Any tips or tricks on fishing thru the existing walls? I've got lots of RG6 quad shield ready to go...

I like fishing. It's fun if I'm not pressured to get it done. I rewired most of my house with 1/2" Greenfield for electric and 3/4" smurf tube for low voltage. Took me about a year of weekends.

You need a bright light or two, a small laser for lining up holes, a bead chain, some ordinary nuts, nylon string, a fish tape, electrical tape, long drill bits and extensions, hole saws, mirrors, a digital camera, time to think, and a pencil and paper to write down ideas.

Opinion: Just put in conduit or smurf tube to all outlet locations and be done with it. Run those to easy-to-reach places and use larger conduit or smurf tube as risers from the basement. Trunk everything in larger raceway in the basement or attic.

Use your Cat 5e, and when something better comes along that you need, just pull out the Cat 5e.

Just fill the conduits needed to serve your present requirements, and when you need something in a new place, fill that conduit.
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Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 12:17:29 EDT

tschmidt posted : 1) Are you having trouble? RG-59 has greater loss then RG-6 but if you are not having trouble no sense in replacing it.

2) Cat 5e supports Gig Ethernet. If you think you need 10G any time soon use Cat 6a - not regular Cat 6.

3) Backboard rather the one of the all-in-one cabinets. Use hinged bracket for the patch panel. If possible get a Ethernet switch with mounting ears and get a large enough bracket to mount everything. If that is not possible install a shelf above the patch panel to located the switch and use short 1ft patch cables. Leaks are always an issue but choice should be on most convenient location. If leak is a serious concern figure out how to shield electronics in the event of a problem.

Doing old work can be a pain. Hopefully there is some sort of wire chase you can use to get cable near final location. One trick is to remove baseboard to hid cable runs.

/tom

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 11:02:37 EDT

nonymous posted :

said by alkizmo:

3 - Put some cover above the gear to avoid it getting wet if there is a leak. Location is key.

Went on a telco repair once and first thing I saw when I walked in the utility room at the business was a water leak shooting water all over the telco backboard and everything on it and also all over the electric panels.
Even though the electric panels looked sealed I let them turn off the water first and let the electrician check the electric panels right next to the telco and all the intertwined wiring.

Plus knew the telco side I was working on was probably mostly fine anyways in general and that their phone system was a goner not my problem. So let them know to call their vendor out asap and I would stay to confirm the telco side was dried off and working.

So yes try and keep electric and telco/ communication,data away from pipes or cover it.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 10:41:00 EDT

alkizmo posted : 1 - Since you aren't remodelling, there's no advantage to do the rewiring now. So leave it as is, if it works fine, you'll have saved your time from a currently useless upgrade.

2 - Cat6, it's like 80$ for a 1000F box. You COULD use the cat5e for short runs near the networking gear to leave as much cat6 remaining for the future.

3 - Put some cover above the gear to avoid it getting wet if there is a leak. Location is key.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 10:39:46 EDT

Daarken posted : If your doing the retrofit, replace the RG59 now, because RG6 is only going to get more expensive. The other reason is that RG6 supports the higher bandwidth demand needed for digital media.
As for the CAT5/CAT6 issue, I'd go with CAT6 for pretty much the same reason.
--
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Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 10:23:43 EDT

Jack_in_VA posted : +1 Most homes wired with RG-59 work just fine. In my former home built in 1984 the Comcast feed to the house was so bad I could have used twin lead. The worked on it for 10 years and never did get it corrected.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 10:19:00 EDT

Bob posted : My house has RG-59 coax installed in 1984, and my TV and cable internet service work fine.

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 10:14:17 EDT

PoloDude posted : Not a choice. Replace that rg59 with the rg6

Re: Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 09:35:44 EDT

cowboyro posted : 1. If you have issues with TV then replace. Most TV is digital these days, it either works fine or is obviously bad.
2. Cat6. The price is too low not to do it.

Structured wiring questions for new (old) home

Mon, 26 Nov 2012 08:21:03 EDT

hambone42 posted : Did some searching in the archives here and found some of the answers I need, but I have a couple of other questions about retrofitting an existing home (two stories plus basement) with network and TV cabling:

1. RG-59: replace or reuse? The conventional wisdom here leans toward replace, but boy is it gonna be a PITA since almost all the walls are finished. Any tips or tricks on fishing thru the existing walls? I've got lots of RG6 quad shield ready to go...

2. Cat 5e or Cat 6? I think I should go with Cat 6, but I've got 1500' of Cat 5e left over from a previous house I didn't finish and it's hard to justify spending more money on cable when the Cat 5e seems perfectly adequate.

3. Mounting a new backboard: I have plenty of space in the basement to spread things out, fortunately. The existing AC panels are directly underneath the service entrance, and some of the existing cable drops (PO's had both Comcast and DirectTV, guess they swapped between the two) come in around the same area. There's an alarm system mounted to the left of the AC panels but the backboard is barely big enough for the alarm panel. I think I have two options: enlarge the backboard around the alarm panel, which puts the networking gear almost to the corner of the basement, or install a new backboard to the right of the AC panels which would make the networking gear more centrally located...but directly underneath the kitchen plumbing and drains. I think my preference is to go next to the alarm, unless y'all can convince me I shouldn't be worried about leaks :D.

4. If anyone in the NoVA area has a recommendation for a firm that does this kind of work, please PM me. I know I'm at the hairy edge of my capabilities on this one. :o

Thanks!
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Sarcasm is the Body's Natural Defense Against Stupidity