 LazManPremium
join:2003-03-26
canada | reply to Subaru
Re: Drilling into concrete ceiling Tapcons FTW... Sleeve or expanding anchors would work, but are WAY beyond overkill for this application.
If you have to put that much pressure on your drill, you've got either a crappy bit, or a crappy drill... I'm a Hilti guy, myself, my TE-5 is 10 years old, and works amazing - can drill 5/8" holes all day... Key is a good bit!
You can get a small package of Tapcons with the proper sized bit for few bucks - the bit's not great, but for 2 or 4 holes, it'll be fine. Be sure to hold the drill square to the ceiling, have good footing, and don't let it wander.
BTW - what kind of space are you mounting it in, that you've got a concrete ceiling? |
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 Doctor OldsI Need A Remedy For What's Ailing Me.Premium,VIP
join:2001-04-19
1970 442 W30
kudos:18 | reply to Jack_in_VA
said by Jack_in_VA:said by Juggernaut:And, depending on the concrete, expect to use one bit per hole. 
If I had to use one bit per hole I would have bankrupted the company. Agree. I have masonry bits that are still good after 10+ Years and 100's of holes. Buying quality bits pays hidden dividends like longer life than one use.
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What’s the point of owning a supercar if you can’t scare yourself stupid from time to time? |
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| reply to Subaru
Watch out for electrical conduit embedded in the concrete (not knowing what the 'ceiling' is the floor of above you).
How thick is the ceiling slab? If it isn't really thick (8"+), don't use expanding anchors - use Tapcons, or threaded rod anchored in epoxy. If using rods, use lock nuts to hold the projector onto the rods. |
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| reply to Subaru
OP, make sure you are not drilling into a post-tension layer. If you hit one of the cables in the concrete it will not end well for you.
»www.concreteconstruction.net/con···abs.aspx
If you are not in a post-tension layer, these are the best anchors I have used. »fasteners.stanleysupplyonline.co···-anchors
We use them to hold all sorts of HVAC mechanical equipment/ ducting. Far better than having to try and pound in a drop-in over your head. |
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 JuggernautIrreverent or irrelevant?Premium
join:2006-09-05
Kelowna, BC
kudos:2 | reply to Doctor Olds
I would have thought that Bosch bits were good quality for the price I paid. But I do agree. I don't cheap out on equipment for the same reason. It's false economy to do otherwise.
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I'm not anti-social, I just don't like stupid people. |
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 Subaru1-3-2-4Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT | reply to Westofhere
This building is old from the early 60's I think.. so does post-tension still apply?
nm saw the link dates |
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 Sc0ttKneedraggerPremium
join:2000-11-13
Stockholm, NJ | reply to EGeezer
said by EGeezer:Just curious - How does one avoid hitting a reinforcing rod? I'd hate to start drilling then be stymied by one of those.
one doesn't avoid rebar. you just make a new hole. 
there are devices to sense rebar but they are too expensive for me. |
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Subaru1-3-2-4Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT | reply to Subaru
Well I now know how thick the ceiling is.. had some work done so I'd say it's about 1/2" or so. |
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bemis
join:2008-07-18
Reading, MA Reviews:
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| Sounds like what I had in my basement... 1/2-3/4" thick concrete on a metal mesh?
I'd drill holes large enough to use toggle bolts. If you have the height, you could consider mounting a piece of wood up there, like a short length of 2x8 which you could secure very strongly up there on it's face using a combo of liquid nails and toggle bolts, then mount the projector to the 2x8... |
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sk1939Premium
join:2010-10-23
Washington, DC
kudos:9 | reply to Subaru
Lots and lots of super glue.
On a more serious note, tapcons are probably the most effective, bulding a wood frame and base would look nicer but would take longer with questionable gains in terms of weight it holds. |
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Sc0ttKneedraggerPremium
join:2000-11-13
Stockholm, NJ | reply to Subaru
said by Subaru:Well I now know how thick the ceiling is.. had some work done so I'd say it's about 1/2" or so.
.........so it's cement board on studs? if so, get the stud centers and mount two 2x4's spanning at least two studs, spaced so the projector will fit over them, and fasten your projector to the 2x4's. |
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robbinPremium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1 | It's plaster. No tapcons. My first choice would probably be molly bolts. Be sure to run this by the landlord. Plaster is not as easy to repair as sheetrock. |
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Subaru1-3-2-4Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT | reply to Sc0tt
said by Sc0tt:said by Subaru:Well I now know how thick the ceiling is.. had some work done so I'd say it's about 1/2" or so.
.........so it's cement board on studs? if so, get the stud centers and mount two 2x4's spanning at least two studs, spaced so the projector will fit over them, and fasten your projector to the 2x4's. You don't really understand I had exhaust fan installed in the bathroom which required a square hole cut so that's how I was able to see the thickness..
the best way would to just use the tapcons.
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It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!
LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!
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robbinPremium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1 | So what is the ceiling made of? Did you take any pics? Do you have the piece that was cut out? |
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Subaru1-3-2-4Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT | Yeah I will get some pictures in a few, it's hard to say I'm not sure how laying concrete for a ceiling is and what they use for a base but it looks like it was poured. |
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Sc0ttKneedraggerPremium
join:2000-11-13
Stockholm, NJ | reply to Subaru
said by Subaru:You don't really understand I had exhaust fan installed in the bathroom which required a square hole cut so that's how I was able to see the thickness..
the best way would to just use the tapcons.
I do understand. I also know the entire ceiling can't be floating from only the perimeter of the room. there must be studs holding the 1/2" thick material or it would simply collapse.
tapcons are great in concrete----not so much in cement BOARD. |
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Subaru1-3-2-4Premium
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT | When the hole was open I did not have time to peak above and look around that might be a little hard to do now since the exhaust fan is installed and all.
but here is a picture.
Looks like it might be cement board? It has a wire screen above it from what I can see.
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robbinPremium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1 | Just as I guessed -- it's plaster on metal lath. Use molly bolts. |
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 John GaltForward, MarchPremium
join:2004-09-30
Happy Camp
kudos:5 | said by robbin:Just as I guessed -- it's plaster on metal lath. Use molly bolts.
This. ^
For best results, make the holes carefully. You don't want to blow out the backside of the material by just hammering something through it. Doing that disrupts the integrity of the material surrounding the hole and reduces the support capacity. |
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robbinPremium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1 | I wouldn't even use a hammer drill on it. Tape off the spot you want to drill so it doesn't chip out too bad and use a masonary bit in a regular drill at a slow speed. Start with a smaller drill bit because if you start with one sized for the Molly bolt guaranteed you will find the joist and only need to use a screw. |
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