[Help] 1998 Dodge caravan brake light issue
Story goes like this..
The son took over this van and he wanted me to bleed the brakes because they were soft.. SO I did and now it's fine.. OK so one day they needed to replace the brake switch and now the brake switch is on a bracket that connect to a metal part and the brake pedal had a part that hits the switch to turn off the lights.. Now the brakes still feel the same as I last did (I bled using a tube and old bottle) and this guy's way was to open and close the bleeder which ended up letting a lot of air in.
To make a long story short he thinks the pedal sunk (I don't think it's possible because the switch is about 3-5 mm from touching the switch, He does not know if the part that hits the switch had a rubber pad or whatever but he's asking me to bleed again which seems a bit wasteful, He had his brother-in-law install the switch which from what I understand pushes into a bracket.
Has anyone seen something like this before?
I'm looking online and all these switches have longer plungers then the switches he has old & replacements..
It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!
LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!
I'm not entirely following your post, but it seems the brake lights are on all the time now? That switch needs to be adjusted when it is installed, and it is retained by a spring-steel clip that grabs the outside of the switch body to hold it in place. Normally, you just install the switch by pushing it in until it bottoms against the metal "L-bracket" that is on the side of the pedal.
If there is still a large amount of clearance, either the switch isn't pushed in all the way, or it is the wrong switch. A side-by-side comparison of the old and new switch would be in order.
I have never known an instance of a low-resting brake pedal being caused by air in the system. A master cylinder has a strong internal spring that forces the piston back, and the brake pedal as well, through the power brake diaphragm. It is possible to pull back on a brake pedal and get rearward movement, but that is not a valid test, as it just pulls the actuator rod out of the booster and does not affect the cylinder itself.
If you remove the master cylinder from the front of the booster, you can visually check to see that the cylinder piston is bottomed out all the way rearward in the body of the cylinder.
Bottom line is, something else is amiss. I don't recall myself if there is a rubber pad on that bracket, but I don't believe there is. I could be wrong on that though, I was wrong once before.