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ke4pym
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join:2004-07-24
Charlotte, NC
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2002 F-150 rear window leaks

Hi all.

The rear window of my F-150 is leaking. I've found several good descriptions on how to remove the window, clean it up and reseal it using butyl rubber sealant. But none of them seem to indicate what brand or type or where they got it in their repair.

Can anyone recommend something for me? And where would I find it?



mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3



I don't believe you need to use any sealant. Is it a sliding window or single-piece? Nearly all of those windows use a molded-rubber gasket, and if it is leaking it is likely a flaw in the gasket, and replacing it should correct the problem.

Typically only front windshields use a liquid sealer as a base for the glass to seal against.


ke4pym
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said by mattmag:

I don't believe you need to use any sealant. Is it a sliding window or single-piece? Nearly all of those windows use a molded-rubber gasket, and if it is leaking it is likely a flaw in the gasket, and replacing it should correct the problem.

Typically only front windshields use a liquid sealer as a base for the glass to seal against.

It's a flat window with a slider in the middle. However, it is leaking around the whole top seal.

The recommendations I've read about suggest pulling it out, cleaning the crap off of it and re-sealing it. This one doesn't use a gasket, apparently and was a big problem with 97-03 models.

I had this happen once before and they replaced the whole window. But it was under extended warranty. That's not an option now.


mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3

OK, I'm not a big Ford expert, so I'm likely wrong on the gasket method. If it is a rubber sealant, it is likely Urethane. In any case, they are a little tricky to get out. Did your research tell you it needed to be cut out with a wire? That's pretty much the best way to go on that style.

I would only use 3M products, it will be available at a good parts store or autobody supply house. The fast-curing is desirable since it is a vertical piece of glass.

Here's a link to one I have used before. It's priced by the case, so don't panic...

»www.shop3m.com/60980032282.html?WT.z_bynt=1


rody_44
Premium
join:2004-02-20
Quakertown, PA

Them windows pop out fairly easy. No wire needed. If your carefull you can literally push it out with your foot. I wouldnt suggest that method in the cold tho.



mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3

1 recommendation

said by rody_44:

Them windows pop out fairly easy. No wire needed. If your carefull you can literally push it out with your foot. I wouldnt suggest that method in the cold tho.

I've never resorted to draconian methods, and my preference is a bit more of a professional style.

Sorry.

ke4pym
Premium
join:2004-07-24
Charlotte, NC

Rody isn't far off.

Looks like about 6 or 8 small nuts to unscrew then ... push. Clean with a putty knife.



Cho Baka
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reply to ke4pym

If it has nuts and studs, then yes it is likely butyl.

Ask at any autoglass shop or bodyshop supply house.

If it is an OEM glass, then there should be instructions or specs on the product required in some Ford documentation somewhere. Butyl can be found in different thicknesses; finding the correct thickness will make your life easier.
--
The talented hawk speaks French.


rody_44
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join:2004-02-20
Quakertown, PA
Reviews:
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4 edits
reply to mattmag

Professional style, My sons does body work and does it for a living. He is the one that showed me how to do it. You can use that wire all you want your still going to be pushing and the piano wire accomplishes nothing. I was just pointing out the wire would be a waste of money and not needed. You could also go buy the tool but again with the rear sliders its not really needed as steady pressure is all thats required. I dont remember him taking any nuts off tho. the only thing he did was put his foot against it and slowly pushed it out. The whole process took all of about two minutes.


rody_44
Premium
join:2004-02-20
Quakertown, PA
reply to mattmag

On the other side he did use the tool to put it back in so you will need that.


ke4pym
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said by rody_44:

On the other side he did use the tool to put it back in so you will need that.

What tool is that?


mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3
reply to rody_44

said by rody_44:

On the other side he did use the tool to put it back in so you will need that.

I'm lost now. If you can push it out and you don't have to cut the sealer (that's all the wire does) what tool would be required to re-install it?

If it has the rubber surround on it with the lips that fit over the edge of the window opening, that one requires a tool, or better yet, a thin cord.

rody_44
Premium
join:2004-02-20
Quakertown, PA
Reviews:
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You can push it out but you need the tool you would use for windshields to put it back in. The rubber has to be started to get back in. Its so loose when you push it out the rubber comes with the glass. When you put it back in tho you are going to need to install the rubber and than the glass.



Cho Baka
Premium,MVM
join:2000-11-23
there
kudos:2
reply to ke4pym

Does anyone have a manual for this?
--
The talented hawk speaks French.


ke4pym
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reply to rody_44

I don't have a URL handy, but the site I was looking at didn't indicate that this would be necessary (to have a tool).

You squeeze the sealant onto the window trim - kinda like caulking and a caulk gun.

Put the window back up, tighten the nuts up a-la-wheel-nut-style and you're done.


rody_44
Premium
join:2004-02-20
Quakertown, PA

Mine didnt have the nuts.



LazMan
Premium
join:2003-03-26
canada
reply to ke4pym

Here's the "How To" from an F-150 site I'm on...

I didn't create it, I've never done it - just cross-posing info... Link is: »www.f150online.com/forums/other-···ass.html

-------------

First, go buy some butyl sealant. It comes in a roll and I think the consensus was to get the 5/8th size. NAPA and your local glass shop will have this. (later post suggested "3M Round Bead Ribbon Sealer Auto Glass Replacement Kit (3M Part #08611)" sealant)

Now, you're going to have to obtain access to the back of the window where it's bolted to the body of the truck. This can be done by removing all of the plastic moldings at the back of the trucks interior. Some of you will have to remove the bolts that hold the seat belts in as well.

Once you have obtained access to the glass, you will need to remove all 12 9mm bolts that secure the glass into place. Make sure that you hang on to the little brackets that are in place where you remove the bolts.

Once you have removed all of the bolts, now you must cut the old butyl sealant. I did this using a box cutter and a long bladed pocket knife.

Take the blade between the thin metal and the glass being careful to 1) not slice your hand open and 2) to attempt to get all the way down such that you are cutting all the way through the sealant. This is a critical step and, in my case, was by far and away the most time consuming. Be careful to not 'mar' the threads on the bolts that hold the glass with your blade.

Find the neighborhood kid and/or significant other and/or buddy to help you here. You're going to need to 'gently push' the glass back towards the box of the truck. If you feel that the glass is moving slightly however; won't budge, you probably have some more cutting to do on the sealant. I found it easiest to start on one corner and work from there.... individual results may vary.

Push the glass back to your friend being VERY careful to not bend the frame of the glass. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE FORCE!!

Once the glass is out, clean off all of the butyl sealant from off the glass and around the pinch weld (portion of the truck where the glass meets the truck).

Use the butyl sealant that you had purchase prior to starting and bead the sealant around the glass staying on the outside of the 12 bolts.

Replace glass and resecure all 12 bolts using a 'back and forth' motion to tighten them evenly.

BEFORE replacing all of your plastic, take it around and hit it with some water. Make sure you don't have a leak.

If all is well, replace plastic, do a little dance, and be thankful that it's fixed. If you've still got a leak, repeat the procedure or pay a glass shop to take care of your problem.

Best of luck and feel free to email me with questions. rockpick@f150online.com

Also, I welcome any additions or suggestions to this procedure as I'm sure it's not totally complete.


ke4pym
Premium
join:2004-07-24
Charlotte, NC

Thanks Laz.

That's the one I've been referring too. But no clue where to get "butyl sealant".



shdesigns
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Premium
join:2000-12-01
Stone Mountain, GA

Just go to any parts store online and search for the 3M part # given in the article.

Heres it on NAPA