dslreports logo
site
 
    All Forums Hot Topics Gallery
spc

spacer




how-to block ads


Search Topic:
uniqs
1423
share rss forum feed


Badger3k
We Don't Need No Stinkin Badgers
Premium
join:2001-09-27
Franklin, OH

No water through humidifier

Click for full size
Just getting around to changing the filter and turning on the humidifier and water is not getting past this regulator (or whatever it's called). I checked and I have water coming in off the saddle valve but once it hits this piece nothing comes out the other side. I've cranked up the heat 10 degrees and turned the humidifier up to full and hear it "click" like it is turning on but nothing happens.

Last year was the first year I installed and used it so I figured just changing the filter was all I needed to do and I'd be set. It's a Honeywell HE220. Attached is where I believe the issue is. Anything else to check or am I missing something?
--
Team Discovery: Project Hope

garys_2k
Premium
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI
Reviews:
·Callcentric
·callwithus

That's the solenoid valve. The longer inlet side should contain a screen that may be clogged, you ought to be able to disassemble it and see if you can clean it.

Worse case scenario is you buy another one: »www.ebay.com/itm/APRILAIRE-4040-···327d5270



Badger3k
We Don't Need No Stinkin Badgers
Premium
join:2001-09-27
Franklin, OH

Found the screen, made sure water was going through it. Still no water through. I found this video on YouTube

»www.youtube.com/watch?v=piKVU3JLQwg
and I get the click from the humidistat and from the valve, so I don't think power is an issue.

Guess I will order a new valve. I may call Honeywell and bitch. Damn thing is barely a year old.
--
Team Discovery: Project Hope


dennismurphy
Put me on hold? I'll put YOU on hold
Premium
join:2002-11-19
Parsippany, NJ
kudos:3
Reviews:
·Verizon FiOS

said by Badger3k:

Found the screen, made sure water was going through it. Still no water through. I found this video on YouTube

»www.youtube.com/watch?v=piKVU3JLQwg
and I get the click from the humidistat and from the valve, so I don't think power is an issue.

Guess I will order a new valve. I may call Honeywell and bitch. Damn thing is barely a year old.

I had to replace the solenoid valve on my Aprilaire this year ... Mine failed open so it never stopped flowing water! Thank goodness I walk past the furnace to get to my home office so I heard it; otherwise I wouldn't have known until the water bill showed up.

Easy enough fix, and I figure, if that's all the trouble the furnace gives me for the year, I'm thrilled!


ropeguru
Premium
join:2001-01-25
Mechanicsville, VA
reply to Badger3k

Take it loose from the water lines, turn on the heat so it calls for the valve to open then blow through it backwards. Also, I think that if you hold it up to a light, you can see when it opens and closes.


public

join:2002-01-19
Santa Clara, CA
reply to garys_2k

said by garys_2k:

That's the solenoid valve. The longer inlet side should contain a screen that may be clogged, you ought to be able to disassemble it and see if you can clean it.

Had a similar case with GeneralAire recently. The strainer was completely clogged with brown mud, the orifice plugged, the valve plugged closed. All this after just one year.
Fortunately the valve is primitive, and can be disassembled and cleaned.

jgriz

join:2008-12-10
Saint Charles, IL
reply to Badger3k

The selonoid valves are all similar though there may be slight differences between manufacturers. There are small passageways inside of the vale that can become clogged with water deposits or debris during the off season. Below is a description of how to troubleshoot an Aprilair humidifier solenoid valve that I posted several years ago. It should help you get started.

"If the valve is "clicking" then the coil is OK and the armature inside is being drawn up. That is the clicking you hear. You can check the coil for continuity using an ohm meter. You can also verify that by holding a screwdriver above the coil when the valve is energized. If the coil is good, the screwdriver will be attracted to the top of the coil.

There are some small passages inside of the valve that may have gotten clogged with hard water deposits during the off season. The valve can be disassembled. The nut on top of the coil comes off, then the coil lifts off. The metal cylinder under the coil that is part of the valve is called the guide tube. There is a slot on top of the guide tube that you can twist counterclockwise with a screwdriver to remove it. All that is inside is a metal armature that has a rubber piece on one end and a spring. When the coil is energized, the armature lifts up against the spring and pulls the rubber tip off of the body seat opening the passageway. Once it is disassembled, you can explore the passageways of the valve to see where it is clogged. "



Badger3k
We Don't Need No Stinkin Badgers
Premium
join:2001-09-27
Franklin, OH
reply to Badger3k

I ended up taking the valve apart and just blowing air through found that the inlet may have been clogged. Got it to where air was moving and testing after hooking everything back up and got water flowing. Waiting for the next heating cycle and back to no water again. I'm guessing at this point that the valve itself is sticking and not opening even though I'm hearing it click.

I found my receipt from last year and I'm going to email the Warranty department with Honeywell to see if they will cover it since I'm like 10 days out of my 1 year, otherwise I think I'm going to order a replacement. Thanks everybody for the help! Learned something new.
--
Team Discovery: Project Hope



ITICharlie1
Premium
join:2003-01-22
Saint Louis, MO

4 edits
reply to Badger3k

Some humidifiers have on the outlet side a small plastic orifice with a small hole in it...this controls how mush water is let into the humidifier. These will often clog. I just replace it every other year. They are color coded and are really cheap.

--
Don't let my reality hinder your imagination!