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FiReSTaRT
Premium
join:2010-02-26
Canada
Reviews:
·Velcom

Easy way to plug a 4' round hole in concrete floor?

Separating a couple of units. There used to be a circular staircase connecting them, but it got removed. Not counting the floor board and the downstairs ceiling drywall, I got 8" of thickness to play with.

1) Would two 2x8 studs do the trick? (yes I know I'd have to shim the drywall about 1/2")

2) How would I attach the brackets? Tapcons? Also, what would be the best way to account for the surface being round instead of straight?

3) Any better solutions that don't involve chipping the concrete?

This is the first time I'm dealing with this type of construction. Thanks in advance for any tips you guys can share.
--
If you have an apple and I have an apple and we exchange these apples then you and I will still each have one apple. But if you have an idea and I have an idea and we exchange these ideas, then each of us will have two ideas.
—George Bernard Shaw



Zorack

join:2001-12-14
Fayetteville, WV

I would just fill it in with concrete....



John97
Over The Hills And Far Away
Premium
join:2000-11-14
Spring Hill, FL
kudos:1
Reviews:
·Bright House
·ooma

said by Zorack:

I would just fill it in with concrete....

That would mean filling in the entire lower level with concrete, if I am reading the OP's description properly.
--
So put me on a highway, and show me a sign.
And take it to the limit one more time...


Zorack

join:2001-12-14
Fayetteville, WV

he's got a 4' round hole that is 8" deep by the looks of it,I would fill it in,not the whole level LOL
--
Matt Barlow Rules! Bring him back to Iced Earth! \m/



FiReSTaRT
Premium
join:2010-02-26
Canada

There is the option to drill, put rebar, support some mdf from underneath and pour, but I'd like to avoid that if I can


scooper

join:2000-07-11
Youngsville, NC
kudos:2
reply to FiReSTaRT

Putting in rebar and pouring concrete to fill that hole would be my first option, but its not necessarrily the cheapest way to do it. Another consideration - can you forsee a time when you may want to have those stairs back in ? In that case - 2x8 studs - yes - but you would need something more sturdy than tapcons to hold them in the hole.



FiReSTaRT
Premium
join:2010-02-26
Canada
Reviews:
·Velcom

said by scooper:

Putting in rebar and pouring concrete to fill that hole would be my first option, but its not necessarrily the cheapest way to do it. Another consideration - can you forsee a time when you may want to have those stairs back in ? In that case - 2x8 studs - yes - but you would need something more sturdy than tapcons to hold them in the hole.

The staircase is gone and the units are being separated permanently. I'm assuming proper anchors will be required then. What could I do to account for the concave surface that I'd be mounting the brackets on?
--
If you have an apple and I have an apple and we exchange these apples then you and I will still each have one apple. But if you have an idea and I have an idea and we exchange these ideas, then each of us will have two ideas.
—George Bernard Shaw

scooper

join:2000-07-11
Youngsville, NC
kudos:2
reply to FiReSTaRT

To be 100% clear - I am NOT an expert on this kind of a problem. It really sounds like a case for getting a professional's opinion - which is what I would be doing. My ideas might be totally out to lunch.

I like the idea of the rebar / concrete because it would make it all "one floor" - but that doesn't mean that is the best way to take care of your issue.

Even using the 2x8's - it wouldn't be as simple as placing two of them in a cross in the middle of the hole - you would need to follow building codes for having enough lumber in place / correct anchoring.



Cho Baka
Premium,MVM
join:2000-11-23
there
kudos:2
reply to FiReSTaRT

Could you post a couple photos?
I am having a hard time envisioning what is described.
--
The talented hawk speaks French.



dcurrey
Premium
join:2004-06-29
Reviews:
·Time Warner Cable
·Cincinnati Bell
·ViaTalk

Think OP is talking about something like this »www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/spi···j/508008

Now remove staircase and top hole needs filled with concrete.



VioletVenom
Lets go Gators
Premium
join:2002-01-02
Gainesville, FL
reply to FiReSTaRT

Click for full size
Interesting project you've got going on. Without going the rebar/concrete route one option would be lag shields (denoted in red, for example). Real question is what are you doing with the floor above? Whole new floor or are you patching in the area that used to contain the stairs? If you are just patching in I'd take extra care with how you secure your framing. With thought given to what potential load could be put on that area. Without plywood spanning old and new areas that could be a potential future law suit if not done correctly.


Cho Baka
Premium,MVM
join:2000-11-23
there
kudos:2
Reviews:
·TekSavvy DSL
·Cogeco Cable
reply to dcurrey

Thanks.
I was thinking something different.

Were it me, I would want that repair to be either engineered, or overkilled. God forbid someone put something heavy on the repaired portion.
--
The talented hawk speaks French.



FiReSTaRT
Premium
join:2010-02-26
Canada
Reviews:
·Velcom
reply to FiReSTaRT

Thanks VioletVenom. Those might just work. The original plan was to patch the section (not just the hole) but there were 2 sheets of plywood "covering" the area. I can work around that, but am still on the fence for just going with concrete.. I'll get a couple quotes as I can't trust my skills to do a proper patch and work from there.
--
If you have an apple and I have an apple and we exchange these apples then you and I will still each have one apple. But if you have an idea and I have an idea and we exchange these ideas, then each of us will have two ideas.
—George Bernard Shaw



mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3



I think you're on the right track getting some quotes. I would have to think that is a fairly critical situation that could go very wrong if it failed. I'd hate to have to deal with that happening.



LazMan
Premium
join:2003-03-26
canada

1 edit
reply to FiReSTaRT

"Fixing" it to support the ceiling isn't a problem...

It's the floor part that's tougher... It would greatly depend on what the existing floor slab is made of that would impact the repair.

Is it pre-formed, pre or post stressed panels? Is it a poured-in place slab? Was the stair opening there from the beginning, or was it added after the fact?

It's time to engineer up, IMO... Lot of things in play on a job like this... You're looking at somewhere around 1000# of concrete to fill the hole, plus it has to support whatever someone may place on it afterwards.

If the existing slab was poured in place, then rebar dowels, expoxied in, rebar or mesh, form and pour - should work... But you'll want a stamp on the size, placement, and installation of those dowels, just incase someone downstairs gets a headache later on...

If the existing deck was pre-formed, and pre or post stressed; I wouldn't even begin to know how to suggest a proper repair.


MaynardKrebs
Heave Steve, for the good of the country
Premium
join:2009-06-17
kudos:4
reply to FiReSTaRT

FireStart,

You need a stamped drawing from a structural engineer for this one, and the engineer will tell you what is acceptable for both the area of the hole, the fasteners to the existing concrete, and ways NOT to damage the existing concrete to the point it fails. It'll cost you a few hundred bucks to have somebody else assume the liability. You also must meet current building code for structure and fire separation - don't guess about this - let a pro deal with it.