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JimmySask

join:2004-06-24
Regina, SK

Repair or Replace 3" Copper waste line?

Just discovered a roughly 1" crack running lengthwise in a 3" copper waste line. The crack shows up about 1" in from the elbow below the toilet, on the "horizontal" line.and in looking closer at the joint, it appears to have been patched with solder between there and the elbow joint by a previous owner at some point.

Obviously the copper is getting thin, so the correct solution would be to replace the line. ABS is the standard now, and the method to convert is a rubber sleeve coupler with hose clamps.

This brings me to a few questions on the repair. I don't know that I have enough pipe coming out of that elbow to get the sleeve over, and if it is already thin, I don't know that I trust the existing stub where I would be cutting it off. Any idea how much pipe I need to be able to fit the sleeve over sufficiently?

Assuming I don't have enough to make that union correctly, would my small propane torch (Bernzomatic TS1500KC) be sufficient to solder in a new line on something that diameter? Or would I be better off to pull the toilet and replace with plastic from the flange down?
--
I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me too....



mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3

Re: Repair or Replace 3" Copper waste line?



I ran into this same scenario in a previous home. Every drain line in the house was copper. We went with "Plan-B" and pulled the toilets and replaced the entire run. It wasn't worth it to try and patch it together.



AVD
Respice, Adspice, Prospice
Premium
join:2003-02-06
Onion, NJ
kudos:1
reply to JimmySask

when in doubt, take it out.



cdru
Go Colts
Premium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7
reply to JimmySask

said by JimmySask:

Assuming I don't have enough to make that union correctly, would my small propane torch (Bernzomatic TS1500KC) be sufficient to solder in a new line on something that diameter? Or would I be better off to pull the toilet and replace with plastic from the flange down?

Not likely. Most torches like that are only good for 1/2"-1". With MAPP gas you might be able to go a little larger, but a 3" pipe I think you're just going to be wasting gas heating up a giant heat sink.

I'd +1 mattmag's advice above. Pull the toilets and replace the entire run. Don't forget to recycle the copper to pay for some of the PVC.


nunya
Premium,MVM
join:2000-12-23
O Fallon, MO
kudos:12
Reviews:
·Charter
·voip.ms
·surpasshosting
reply to JimmySask

You'd probably need a MAPP or Prest-o-lite torch to heat it up enough. You are probably better off replacing. Do your copper pipes eventually "let" into cast iron? My house has some copper waste pipes, but they go into a cast iron stack.
--
If someone refers to herself / himself as a "guru", they probably aren't.


JimmySask

join:2004-06-24
Regina, SK

Appears to be copper floor to ceiling in my basement, so I would say no. House was built in the mid-60's.
--
I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me too....



tp0d
yabbazooie
Premium
join:2001-02-13
Carnegie, PA
kudos:5

The vertical stack will last for a long time. Horizontal toilet runs are victims of erosion, and piss.

I would cut off all horiz copper from the toilet to the vertical stack, and replace with plastic. New flange, then plastic to the stack, and make the connection with a rubber coupling (fernco). Cut the copper off flush with the brass tee. If theres a 1.5" waste line from a tub/sink/etc, you can just couple that together with another fernco, the copper wont fail on those waste lines.

-j
--
if it aint broke, tweak it!!
currently on FiOS (kick aZZ!)


robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1

I'd check code before doing that. Many places that do allow them require the shielded ones, and in other places they can't be concealed (so there would need to be an access door).