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ArgMeMatey

join:2001-08-09
Milwaukee, WI
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Re-roofing with existing skylights

I'm looking for your experiences, dos and don'ts, if you already had skylights or roof windows and then had your house re-roofed. I'm putting together some specs so I can communicate to contractors what I need done, but I have no experience in roofing whatsoever.

Can decent quality skylights simply be reset and re-flashed? I have three Velux VS106 windows and one FS106 fixed skylight that I installed in 1999. Never had any leaks or problems with the Velux step flashing and I am guessing that they would still have flashing kits available for these units.

The house has three layers of roofing, (i.e. 1920s, 1950s, 1982) so due to that thickness, I had to mount the Veluxes on the first layer of cedar shingles, rather than the top two layers of asphalt. I assume that after the tear-off, they'll need to be re-set and likely some interior work on the sheetrock will be needed.

The roof is pitched 9/12 with one dormer, one eyebrow, one chimney, and no venting. The rafters are 24" OC and the roof boards are 1x6 spaced 1/2" to 1".

I am sure my house is looking forward to losing a few thousand pounds. Thanks for any advice and suggestions.
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tschmidt
Premium,MVM
join:2000-11-12
Milford, NH
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We have a Velux opening skylight that was installed when we reroofed a few years ago so have no direct experience reusing an old one.

That being said I see no reason why it cannot be removed and reset with the new shingles. Will probably need to remove and replace interior trim since the window will sit lower then before. The flashing that came with ours matches the finish. Not sure how flashing is retained but if it is in good shape probably even be able to reuse it if the old shingles are carefully removed. Have you swung by the Velux site? Do they sell a reflashing kit?

/tom


Jtmo
Premium
join:2001-05-20
Novato, CA
reply to ArgMeMatey
1. Contractor will place plastic sheeting taped to the building to capture debris that gets away.
2. Contractor will place blocks inside of gutter where a ladder is used to reduce 'oil can' effect.
3. Per sheet cost of sheathing if needed.
4. Per foot cost of any new trim (apples to apples between vendors)
5. Do your research, pick the shingle manufacturer, warranty, color, substrates (Weatherstopper etc.) you want. This allows apples to apples comparision again.
6. Extra labor costs per hour
7. Type and cost per foot of any gutter replaced (painted) with 3 inch downspout not 1.5 inch hole in gutter. Specify bottom or rear exit.
8. Preferably you pay the supply house to avoid any mechanics leins if the contractor does not pay.
9. Check state website for licensing issues.
10. $1M insurance, including workmens comp.
11. Yes, you can modify standard contract language if needed.
12. Contractor will supply permit at cost plus 15%
13. Type of roof vent, chimney cap, costs. Painted

Skylights should be good, the flashing is tough stuff. But, you are right, they will be lower when you remove the cedar. Could run you some hours to reset them depending on how many and what they find.


Jtmo
Premium
join:2001-05-20
Novato, CA
14. Contractor will use magnet broom to remove all nails/staples. Also, contractor will not use staples on new roof. Pipe flashings will have rubber grommet screws on exposed area.


ArgMeMatey

join:2001-08-09
Milwaukee, WI
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said by Jtmo:

14. ...contractor will not use staples on new roof. Pipe flashings will have rubber grommet screws on exposed area.

Wow, thanks for all that. Do you mean stapling the shingles, or stapling tar paper, or what? What should they be doing?

There is only one 4" plumbing vent. Are you saying they need to use a rubber grommet around any screws that secure that flashing? I thought about adding a weatherhead & mount so I could put my TV antenna up there, and I suppose a dish if needed.

The existing gutters are steel and rusted through in a few spots, so I am not that concerned about ladder damage. They will need to be replaced anyway. I have seen prefinished roll aluminum that is formed on site into gutters, but I am thinking we'll need to paint them to match the trim anyway. What are the options there?
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tschmidt
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Milford, NH
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said by ArgMeMatey:

Do you mean stapling the shingles, or stapling tar paper, or what? What should they be doing?

Doesn't matter how you attach the tar paper, it is the shingles that are important. I think in some high wind locales staples are prohibited. Nails are much better.

I have not seen it mentioned but since you are in cold area, one or two starter rows of "Snow and Ice Shield" (aka bitch a thane).

Since it sounds like the attic is finished what does the insulation situation look like? Since the roof is being stripped will be relatively cheap to add solid insulation and then strapping so new sheathing creates a ventilated air space. That will go a long way to eliminating ice dams. If you go that route use ventilated drip edge at the soffit and ventilated roof cap at the peak.

Also drip edge along all edges of the roof.

/tom


mityfowl
Premium
join:2000-11-06
Dallas, TX

1 edit
reply to ArgMeMatey
I've sold and serviced skylights in the past.

After all those roofs and years I'm almost sure the roofers will bend up the flashing on the skylights. Velux sells kits (glass, flashing, cladding, etc.) for real old products.

Save yourself any potential grief and just replace the flashing with the appropriate Velux kit. »www.velux.com


ArgMeMatey

join:2001-08-09
Milwaukee, WI
kudos:2
Reviews:
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reply to tschmidt
said by tschmidt:

...one or two starter rows of "Snow and Ice Shield" (aka bitch a thane).

Since it sounds like the attic is finished what does the insulation situation look like? Since the roof is being stripped will be relatively cheap to add solid insulation and then strapping so new sheathing creates a ventilated air space. That will go a long way to eliminating ice dams. If you go that route use ventilated drip edge at the soffit and ventilated roof cap at the peak.

Also drip edge along all edges of the roof.

I'm not sure if the shield is code-required, but I have never seen a house done without it as ice dams can be a problem around here.

I have 6" of Icynene between the rafters so there is currently no air space. In this climate people seem to hem and haw about whether the air circulation is worth the extra expense, the strapping and ventilated drip edge as you say. Since the Icynene was installed we haven't had any ice dam problems, although I rake the bottom 3-5' of the roof anyway because of my experience in December of 2000. In the summer it might help marginally, but I've also had people say that the number of cooling degree days here probably wouldn't make it a big gainer.

Keep it coming!
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