 alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | Some sort of removable ceiling I want to rip out the ceiling in my tiny vestibule because it gives me access to underneath my bathroom and an ideal passage way for network wiring and such.
ANYWAY, I'd replace the ceiling with something that can be removed easily whenever I'd need to do plumbing or run new wires.
Since it's 44 x 50, I could use 2 tiles for suspended ceilings, but then I wouldn't be able to have a fixture in the center of that ceiling.
So I was thinking that maybe I could cut a white laminated 4x8 to size and then cut a hole in the center for the fixture and suspended with those ceilingmax crosstees along the perimeter.
Also I'd like that when I removing that panel, that the fixture can be easily disconnected from the wiring and come along with the panel.
Any suggestions? |
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 cdruGo ColtsPremium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7 | said by alkizmo:Since it's 44 x 50, I could use 2 tiles for suspended ceilings, but then I wouldn't be able to have a fixture in the center of that ceiling. Put a 24x24 tile in the center. on each side you'd have a 24x10 tile or a 13x24 tile. The corners would have 10x13 tiles. You should be able to still use 2 24x48 tiles and still have a full center tile to mount a light at. You'll use more Ceilingmax though.
Also I'd like that when I removing that panel, that the fixture can be easily disconnected from the wiring and come along with the panel. |
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 tschmidtPremium,MVM
join:2000-11-12
Milford, NH
kudos:8
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| reply to alkizmo
We have a post and beam house and I put in a suspended ceiling in the 1st floor bathroom for the same reason. I have a combo fan/light in the middle of one of the tiles. Suspended it from the bottom of the 2nd floor and cut a clearance hole in the tile.
One thing to keep in mind is you need room to tip the tiles up to drop them onto the support brackets. If you want the fixture centered then I agree with cdru  suggestion to use 2x2 tile in center for the fixture.
/tom |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | reply to alkizmo
hmm I wouldn't like having 2 halves of a ceiling tile on the sides, it would make even less clearance since they wouldn't allign with the ceiling joists (but they'd run parallel) and thus those rails combined with the joist and I end up with width between the rails and the joists of less than 4 inches.
The ceilingmax rails have the advantage of needing 0 clearance because the rails can be peeled off and then the ceiling would just drop off. See the image below.
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cdruGo ColtsPremium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7 | said by alkizmo:hmm I wouldn't like having 2 halves of a ceiling tile on the sides, it would make even less clearance since they wouldn't allign with the ceiling joists (but they'd run parallel) and thus those rails combined with the joist and I end up with width between the rails and the joists of less than 4 inches. Well don't gripe if you don't post anything other than the dimensions of the ceiling.  Give us a picture or a drawing that has the joists are located and any specific plumbing or wiring that needs to be avoided.
Also, how much plumbing and wiring do you really need to do here? It's one thing to want to put in a removable ceiling for the chance that you might need to do something down the road. It's another thing to design it so that it's accessible on a very frequent basis A couple of furring strips or blocking may be somewhat intrusive from a clearance standpoint but still could be worked around. Or they could be removable if it was really an issue. |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | said by cdru:Well don't gripe if you don't post anything other than the dimensions of the ceiling. Give us a picture or a drawing that has the joists are located and any specific plumbing or wiring that needs to be avoided. Sorry if it seemed like I was griping 
The idea is good, but I don't want to go that way since it's a bit less convenient (and quite less attractive in appearance).
said by cdru:Also, how much plumbing and wiring do you really need to do here? It's one thing to want to put in a removable ceiling for the chance that you might need to do something down the road. It's another thing to design it so that it's accessible on a very frequent basis A couple of furring strips or blocking may be somewhat intrusive from a clearance standpoint but still could be worked around. Or they could be removable if it was really an issue.
Not that much after my initial rummaging, but it's a key location where one day I could decide to go back in there and run a new wire or need to fix a leaky drain (happened a few months ago :O)
Of course, I'm not gonna ask for the moon. If there's no simple way to keep it all easily accessible, then I'll settle with a less convenient access method and deal with it when I need to go in there.
Let me ask this though... Would my idea work with the single laminate board? or are there potential problems? The ceilingmax rails would make it that I don't need clearance to remove such big panel, but then it might be too heavy for the rails? |
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cdruGo ColtsPremium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7 | said by alkizmo:Let me ask this though... Would my idea work with the single laminate board? or are there potential problems? The ceilingmax rails would make it that I don't need clearance to remove such big panel, but then it might be too heavy for the rails?
A single panel may be too awkward to put up and take down, especially if there is also a fixture mounted to it. It would need to be the full size of the room, +/- an inch or so so you'd also have to content with any molding around doors if applicable.
I think you'd have to use 3/8 or 1/2 to avoid sagging in the middle, and that probably is going to be too much of a span for the ceilingmax to hold up. It was only meant to hold up 2' max width tiles.
Reading Ceilingmax's website, they say that the system is not to be used to hold light fixtures. Any fixtures need to be self supporting, attached to a joist, ceiling, etc. Split the room in half, install the light fixture's box right in the middle, then notch the tiles around the box. Use the light's trim to cover the end of the Ceilingmax around the notch and any gap around the tiles and the box. |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | Good call cdru.
With this info, I'm thinking that I should put 2 ceiling tiles side by side (would fix perfectly) and to maintain symetry, I'll put one tiny recessed light for each tile.
With recessed lights, I can have them be attached to the joists, so that I would only need to remove the light trim to remove the ceiling tiles. The recessed lights themselves would stay in place instead of coming down with the ceiling, just light a normal suspended ceiling.
Thanks cdru. |
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