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evilt00l

join:2003-03-20
Winchester, KY
kudos:1

Heat pump repair suggestions.

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I'm back again for heat pump issues... This HVAC system will be the death of me.

The top part/cap whatever the correct term for it is that has the fins and supports the fan motor is cracking and I'm afraid will soon fail causing a broken compressor or more.

I've called the local distributor and multiple dealers however all state that the part is no longer available and no one has any. Its a Heil unit model # NHP042AKC2. Its approx 29.75" by 32.5". I've attached photos below.

Several dealers, especially those in rural areas suggested several things to "fix" it.

* cut a piece of plywood larger than the cracks and bolt it to that through the metal.
* get some steel and run across to bolt it to through the metal.
* Use very strong glue and just keep using the same part.

What above or hopefully better suggestions can you offer?

Do you by chance work for or know someone who may have a part that would fit? (I've been told heil = tempstar)


hitachi369
Embrace Your Rights
Premium
join:2001-10-03
Grand Rapids, MI
kudos:4

1 recommendation

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What i would do is ghetto rig it as one could say. I would get some metal straps/stock (something that alone can support the weight of the motor.) Punch some holes in it for the motor, and for mounting screws. (see attached picture) Viola, your problem is fixed and depending on your resources almost zero cost.

Be aware this is not the "right" fix, but cheap and easy fix.

garys_2k
Premium
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI
Reviews:
·Callcentric
·callwithus
reply to evilt00l

Forget the glue, if you really can't get that then I'd do the steel or wood bracing as suggested. My first thought was a plywood circle that overlaps the first 1/2" of the fins. Butt ugly, but with PT wood, painted to match the top, not the worst thing I can think of.



hitachi369
Embrace Your Rights
Premium
join:2001-10-03
Grand Rapids, MI
kudos:4

said by garys_2k:

Forget the glue, if you really can't get that then I'd do the steel or wood bracing as suggested. My first thought was a plywood circle that overlaps the first 1/2" of the fins. Butt ugly, but with PT wood, painted to match the top, not the worst thing I can think of.

My concern would be the issue would just reappear. The issue is caused by the torque of the motor starting up. You need something that can dissipate the torque and just not make the problem bigger.
--
STOP THE NSA WIRETAPS


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garys_2k
Premium
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI

Excellent point! Then I'd go with the long braces bolted to the cover. Maybe that galvanized angle-iron with holes along the faces would be the way to go.



boogi man

join:2001-11-13
Jacksonville, FL
kudos:1
reply to evilt00l

I'd use aluminum angle over galvanized because when you drill the holes the rust will start there. so Al angle and a few stainless screws and you're good to go.
--
my site



cdru
Go Colts
Premium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7
reply to hitachi369

I'd second what hitachi369 shows, possibly even having another pair of straps going from top right to bottom left. You may not even need to use strap metal. A metal rod of decent enough diameter may be enough.



leibold
Premium,MVM
join:2002-07-09
Sunnyvale, CA
kudos:10
Reviews:
·SONIC.NET
reply to boogi man

said by boogi man:

I'd use aluminum angle over galvanized because when you drill the holes the rust will start there. so Al angle and a few stainless screws and you're good to go.

I agree with the boogi man See Profile but would clarify to use two pieces of aluminum (or stainless steel) 90 degree angle (3/4" or at most 1") mounted exactly where you have the two black lines in the picture. The reason for doing two narrow angles instead of a wide blade is to minimize the blocking of vent area. Even 1/2" right angle might be sufficient but makes it harder to access the hex nuts (3/4" allows you to leave enough space for regular thickwall sockets).

As an example look at Stanley Hardware P/N: 342154 which is being sold with motor mounds as a listed application.

Drill 2 holes in the center of each angle bracket to mount the motor using the existing bolts and nuts plus an additional 1 or 2 holes at each end for sheetmetal screws.
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Caddyroger
Premium
join:2001-06-11
To the west
Reviews:
·Comcast
reply to evilt00l

I agree with using angle iron. I would use this from home depot or similar. Use 4 aluminum sheet metal screws side and it would last your life time.

»www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ···l3XdZhGM
--
Caddy


TheMG
Premium
join:2007-09-04
Canada
kudos:3
Reviews:
·NorthWest Tel

1 recommendation

reply to leibold

In addition, I'd check the balancing of the fan blade. It is possible that excessive vibration due to an unbalanced blade is what caused the fatigue crack in the first place.

Although, it could be simply due to poor materials and/or manufacturing.



jrs8084
Premium
join:2002-03-02
Statesville, NC
kudos:1

1 recommendation

reply to evilt00l

Would fiberglass angle iron (bar) be better? Might be easier to work with/won't rust/less likely to rattle.


Quattrohead
Premium
join:2005-02-09
reply to TheMG

Stop using that right away and I 2nd vibration issues.
I would be looking up "International Comfort Products, LLC" and giving them a call to ask about repair/replacement.
»en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internatio···poration


Liberty

join:2005-06-12
Tucson, AZ
reply to evilt00l

Uni-strut

Buy a 10' stick of galvanized unistrut, cut in half
Hang motor as it is now with support from unistrut resting on the cap

Will have a 'ghetto' ambiance but would work I bet and is inexpensive



Cho Baka
Premium,MVM
join:2000-11-23
there
kudos:2
reply to evilt00l

Why not just MIG weld it?


reply to evilt00l

The top of that unit looks remarkable similar to a goodman unit. Take the measurements to the local goodman/janitrol dealer and ask for a top plate with those dimensions. Chances are they have one in stock. Most manufacturers dont make their own coils or cases (expense) You will spend more on a rig repair and possibly have it fail than on the proper part.



PSWired

join:2006-03-26
Annapolis, MD
reply to Cho Baka

Yeah, if the part truly isn't available (unlikely I'd think) I'd take the whole top to a shop and have them weld the crack up, then grind it down so the repair isn't visible. Paint the thing and it's back to new condition. Make sure the fan blade is balanced like others said.



Lurch77
Premium
join:2001-11-22
Oconto, WI
kudos:4
reply to evilt00l

Some good suggestions here for some easy, if not exactly good looking fixes. However, as a few people mentioned, don't forget to find out why it cracked to begin with. Fix the problem or the symptom may find the next weakest link.


reply to Dont rig it

The closest I can come on parts at this hour is from a current model goodman gsh13 series, though you may need a larger blade if you install one of these are they are from the 13 seer series instead of the 10 seer, but its at least a starting point. A dealer should be able to find the 10 seer top cover to fit your need. for the gsh13 series the covers are as follows. 26 inch 0121R00008PDG.... 29 inch 0121R00010PDG.... and 35 inch 0121R00269PDG. Hope this helps. And definately check the blade. That is the leading cause of this problem.



evilt00l

join:2003-03-20
Winchester, KY
kudos:1
reply to evilt00l

Thanks for the suggestions, I think I'm going to go the aluminum angle option on the lines indicated by hitachi.

It should block less airflow and it is relatively inexpensive @ local HW store.



Lurch77
Premium
join:2001-11-22
Oconto, WI
kudos:4

1 recommendation

Be very careful when you drill holes to mount the angles. I've seen many coils with screw holes in thm.



leibold
Premium,MVM
join:2002-07-09
Sunnyvale, CA
kudos:10
Reviews:
·SONIC.NET
reply to evilt00l

The Stanley part I mentioned as example is under $5 (you would need two) and hopefully it is already the correct length (3ft) so you don't even need to saw it.

Drilling the holes into aluminum should not be difficult. You may also want to pre-dill small holes for the sheetmetal screws (into the AC top cover) for best results. Just be careful not to drill or screw into the condenser coil!
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leibold
Premium,MVM
join:2002-07-09
Sunnyvale, CA
kudos:10
Reviews:
·SONIC.NET
reply to dont rig it

said by dont rig it :

And definately check the blade.

Are there any good/quick/easy DIY solutions for balancing a vibrating fan blade ?
When I replaced the fan motor on my own AC I also had to replace the fan blade since I couldn't get the old one off. The old one had a pair of metal clips presumably to balance the fan blade. The new one was sold to me "pre-balanced" without any clips and seems to be fine (very minor vibration).
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robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1
reply to Cho Baka

said by Cho Baka:

Why not just MIG weld it?

That's what I would do.

TheMG
Premium
join:2007-09-04
Canada
kudos:3
Reviews:
·NorthWest Tel

1 recommendation

reply to leibold

said by leibold:

said by dont rig it :

And definately check the blade.

Are there any good/quick/easy DIY solutions for balancing a vibrating fan blade ?

First check I'd do is to set the blades down on a flat surface and make sure that all the blades touch the surface. Flip the whole thing around and check the other side too. This will ensure that none of the blades are bent out of alignment. If any of them are, you can bend them back to try to get them in-line with the other blades as much as possible.

You can also check that they are all about the same angle.

Another check you can do, is to balance the blades with a pen through the hub where the motor shaft would go. If any side of the blade set is heavier (out of balance), gravity will cause the blades to rotate so the heavier side is at the bottom.

If the blade set is well balanced, you can turn it to any position and it will stay put.

If the blades are heavier on one end, and you've checked that the alignment and angle of all the blades is the same, then you can attempt to balance it by grinding away a small amount of metal from the edge of the heavier blade (the one that settles at the bottom).

It's not the perfect method, but it generally works well enough.


AVD
Respice, Adspice, Prospice
Premium
join:2003-02-06
Onion, NJ
kudos:1
reply to boogi man

said by boogi man:

I'd use aluminum angle over galvanized because when you drill the holes the rust will start there. so Al angle and a few stainless screws and you're good to go.

mixing metals is always a good idea.
--
* seek help if having trouble coping
--Standard disclaimers apply.--


Lurch77
Premium
join:2001-11-22
Oconto, WI
kudos:4

I'd just use all steel and paint it.



Cho Baka
Premium,MVM
join:2000-11-23
there
kudos:2
Reviews:
·TekSavvy DSL
reply to AVD

said by AVD:

mixing metals is always a good idea.

If you enjoy corrosion.
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AVD
Respice, Adspice, Prospice
Premium
join:2003-02-06
Onion, NJ
kudos:1

said by Cho Baka:

said by AVD:

mixing metals is always a good idea.

If you enjoy corrosion.

or making batteries
--
* seek help if having trouble coping
--Standard disclaimers apply.--


nunya
Premium,MVM
join:2000-12-23
O Fallon, MO
kudos:12
Reviews:
·Charter
·voip.ms
·surpasshosting

1 recommendation

reply to evilt00l

How old is this sumbitch anyway? I'd get some large fender washers (like 1/4" X 2) and see how long they hold it.

After that, I'd call the manufacturer and see about getting a replacement top.
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