 evilt00l
join:2003-03-20
Winchester, KY
kudos:1 | Heat pump repair suggestions. I'm back again for heat pump issues... This HVAC system will be the death of me.
The top part/cap whatever the correct term for it is that has the fins and supports the fan motor is cracking and I'm afraid will soon fail causing a broken compressor or more.
I've called the local distributor and multiple dealers however all state that the part is no longer available and no one has any. Its a Heil unit model # NHP042AKC2. Its approx 29.75" by 32.5". I've attached photos below.
Several dealers, especially those in rural areas suggested several things to "fix" it.
* cut a piece of plywood larger than the cracks and bolt it to that through the metal.
* get some steel and run across to bolt it to through the metal.
* Use very strong glue and just keep using the same part.
What above or hopefully better suggestions can you offer?
Do you by chance work for or know someone who may have a part that would fit? (I've been told heil = tempstar) |
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 hitachi369Embrace Your RightsPremium
join:2001-10-03
Grand Rapids, MI
kudos:4
 ·AT&T U-Verse
| What i would do is ghetto rig it as one could say. I would get some metal straps/stock (something that alone can support the weight of the motor.) Punch some holes in it for the motor, and for mounting screws. (see attached picture) Viola, your problem is fixed and depending on your resources almost zero cost.
Be aware this is not the "right" fix, but cheap and easy fix. |
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garys_2kPremium
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI Reviews:
 ·callwithus
·Callcentric
| reply to evilt00l
Forget the glue, if you really can't get that then I'd do the steel or wood bracing as suggested. My first thought was a plywood circle that overlaps the first 1/2" of the fins. Butt ugly, but with PT wood, painted to match the top, not the worst thing I can think of. |
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hitachi369Embrace Your RightsPremium
join:2001-10-03
Grand Rapids, MI
kudos:4 Reviews:
·AT&T U-Verse
| said by garys_2k:Forget the glue, if you really can't get that then I'd do the steel or wood bracing as suggested. My first thought was a plywood circle that overlaps the first 1/2" of the fins. Butt ugly, but with PT wood, painted to match the top, not the worst thing I can think of.
My concern would be the issue would just reappear. The issue is caused by the torque of the motor starting up. You need something that can dissipate the torque and just not make the problem bigger.
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STOP THE NSA WIRETAPS
They who would give up an essential liberty for temporary security, deserve neither liberty or security
~Benjamin Franklin |
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garys_2kPremium
join:2004-05-07
Farmington, MI | Excellent point! Then I'd go with the long braces bolted to the cover. Maybe that galvanized angle-iron with holes along the faces would be the way to go. |
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| reply to evilt00l
I'd use aluminum angle over galvanized because when you drill the holes the rust will start there. so Al angle and a few stainless screws and you're good to go.
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my site |
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 cdruGo ColtsPremium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7 | reply to hitachi369
I'd second what hitachi369 shows, possibly even having another pair of straps going from top right to bottom left. You may not even need to use strap metal. A metal rod of decent enough diameter may be enough. |
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 leiboldPremium,MVM
join:2002-07-09
Sunnyvale, CA
kudos:6
 ·SONIC.NET
| reply to boogi man
said by boogi man:I'd use aluminum angle over galvanized because when you drill the holes the rust will start there. so Al angle and a few stainless screws and you're good to go. I agree with the boogi man  but would clarify to use two pieces of aluminum (or stainless steel) 90 degree angle (3/4" or at most 1") mounted exactly where you have the two black lines in the picture. The reason for doing two narrow angles instead of a wide blade is to minimize the blocking of vent area. Even 1/2" right angle might be sufficient but makes it harder to access the hex nuts (3/4" allows you to leave enough space for regular thickwall sockets).
As an example look at Stanley Hardware P/N: 342154 which is being sold with motor mounds as a listed application.
Drill 2 holes in the center of each angle bracket to mount the motor using the existing bolts and nuts plus an additional 1 or 2 holes at each end for sheetmetal screws.
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Got some spare cpu cycles ? Join Team Helix or Team Starfire! |
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| reply to evilt00l
I agree with using angle iron. I would use this from home depot or similar. Use 4 aluminum sheet metal screws side and it would last your life time.
»www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ···l3XdZhGM
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Caddy |
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TheMGPremium
join:2007-09-04
Canada
kudos:1 | reply to leibold
In addition, I'd check the balancing of the fan blade. It is possible that excessive vibration due to an unbalanced blade is what caused the fatigue crack in the first place.
Although, it could be simply due to poor materials and/or manufacturing. |
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 jrs8084Premium
join:2002-03-02
Statesville, NC
kudos:1 | reply to evilt00l
Would fiberglass angle iron (bar) be better? Might be easier to work with/won't rust/less likely to rattle. |
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| reply to TheMG
Stop using that right away and I 2nd vibration issues.
I would be looking up "International Comfort Products, LLC" and giving them a call to ask about repair/replacement.
»en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internatio···poration |
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| reply to evilt00l
Uni-strut
Buy a 10' stick of galvanized unistrut, cut in half
Hang motor as it is now with support from unistrut resting on the cap
Will have a 'ghetto' ambiance but would work I bet and is inexpensive |
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 TA63ST215WPremium,MVM
join:2000-11-23
there
kudos:2 | reply to evilt00l
Why not just MIG weld it? |
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| reply to evilt00l
The top of that unit looks remarkable similar to a goodman unit. Take the measurements to the local goodman/janitrol dealer and ask for a top plate with those dimensions. Chances are they have one in stock. Most manufacturers dont make their own coils or cases (expense) You will spend more on a rig repair and possibly have it fail than on the proper part. |
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PSWired
join:2006-03-26
Annapolis, MD | reply to TA63
Yeah, if the part truly isn't available (unlikely I'd think) I'd take the whole top to a shop and have them weld the crack up, then grind it down so the repair isn't visible. Paint the thing and it's back to new condition. Make sure the fan blade is balanced like others said. |
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 Lurch77Premium
join:2001-11-22
Oconto, WI
kudos:4 | reply to evilt00l
Some good suggestions here for some easy, if not exactly good looking fixes. However, as a few people mentioned, don't forget to find out why it cracked to begin with. Fix the problem or the symptom may find the next weakest link. |
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| reply to Dont rig it
The closest I can come on parts at this hour is from a current model goodman gsh13 series, though you may need a larger blade if you install one of these are they are from the 13 seer series instead of the 10 seer, but its at least a starting point. A dealer should be able to find the 10 seer top cover to fit your need. for the gsh13 series the covers are as follows. 26 inch 0121R00008PDG.... 29 inch 0121R00010PDG.... and 35 inch 0121R00269PDG. Hope this helps. And definately check the blade. That is the leading cause of this problem. |
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evilt00l
join:2003-03-20
Winchester, KY
kudos:1 | reply to evilt00l
Thanks for the suggestions, I think I'm going to go the aluminum angle option on the lines indicated by hitachi.
It should block less airflow and it is relatively inexpensive @ local HW store. |
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Lurch77Premium
join:2001-11-22
Oconto, WI
kudos:4 | Be very careful when you drill holes to mount the angles. I've seen many coils with screw holes in thm.  |
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