boaterbob
Premium Member
join:2005-08-01
Moncks Corner, SC |
to jack b
Re: Flush an old hot water heater?Well ... If you had left the water to the heater turned on, it would spray out the hole once you removed the anode (guess you figured that); if the water was HOT, guess what would spray out!
But, no you do not need for the water to be cool before you remove the anode provided, of course, that you turned OFF the water AND turned off the electricity if your heater is electric. If power is ON and the tank water level drops below the level of the heating elements AND they were still ON, then the elements would be destroyed and you'd need to buy and install new elements.
The bigger question is, can you even get the old anode bolt unscrewed. I just did a 4 year old electric water heater and I used a pneumatic wrench (didn't work), a socket breaker bar (didn't work) a 3# hammer against the breaker bar (didn't work) and a 4ft long water pipe over the breaker bar with a lot of force (and it finally came loose). TIP: if you tank is soldered to the water pipes, do not let the tank twist or turn too much as you try to loosen the anode nut as you do not want to break any solder joints (or tip over the take full of water). |
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said by boaterbob:The bigger question is, can you even get the old anode bolt unscrewed. I just did a 4 year old electric water heater and I used a pneumatic wrench (didn't work), a socket breaker bar (didn't work) a 3# hammer against the breaker bar (didn't work) and a 4ft long water pipe over the breaker bar with a lot of force (and it finally came loose). Yeah, you need first of all the right sized socket (usually 3/4"), but then what works reliably is a 1/2" electric impact wrench (see harborfreight.com). I have 3 water heaters and this wrench works every time, with continuous short hard strokes that are better even than that 4ft breaker bar which, yes, will turn the WH on its base! Best $40 bucks I've spent on tools--it's been a godsend for a number of other purposes as well. AFAICT with even the best water, an anode rod should be replaced every few years--the last one I took-out at 3 years was only mostly inner steel wire--very little sacrifical metal left to it. BTW my WHs are all electric; I'm surprised to learn there are anode rods in gas WHs too and wonder if they deteriorate at a similar rate to electric...? |
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 ·Metronet
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Gas/electric should not matter - the rods are there to "An anode rod is necessary because it prevents any corrosion of a water heater's metal lining."
Electric does not cause more issues with the corrosion of the tank nor does gas prevent corrosion. |
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 Subaru1-3-2-4
Premium Member
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT |
Subaru
Premium Member
2013-Jan-26 10:04 am
I was going to ask about the socket size because the one I tried to get to all I had was metric impact sockets and they were all too fat to fit down and the smallest size is 10mm and the largest is 24mm I think some of the foam insulation was in the way as well. |
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 jack bGone Fishing
MVM
join:2000-09-08
Cape Cod |
to boaterbob
said by boaterbob:Well ... If you had left the water to the heater turned on, it would spray out the hole once you removed the anode (guess you figured that); if the water was HOT, guess what would spray out! Well... as with any advice given here, it's sometimes wise not to assume a certain level of skill of the reader who asks a question. |
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to Subaru
said by Subaru:all I had was metric impact sockets and they were all too fat to fit down and the smallest size is 10mm and the largest is 24mm I think some of the foam insulation was in the way as well.
I have an AOSmith and I've used a 27mm non-impact three times with no trouble at all. It's very close to 1-1/16 actual size. The first time, when the heater was about three years old, I put an eye bolt in a stud and wrapped a ratcheting cable puller around the T&P valve. I then used a 2' pipe on a 1/2" breaker handle. My water heater was installed in March 2000 and I'm on my third anode rod. I get the flexible, cabled style due to low clearance. $50 every four years doesn't seem unreasonable for my heater arrangement, which will require some re-engineering when it is finally replaced. |
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Subaru1-3-2-4
Premium Member
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT |
Subaru
Premium Member
2013-Jan-26 12:12 pm
Yeah this one was a 80 gallon AOSmith as well it had never been changed and at this time it was 7 years in.. Oh well not worried about it now. |
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lutful... of ideas
Premium Member
join:2005-06-16
Ottawa, ON |
to CylonRed
said by CylonRed:Gas/electric should not matter - the rods are there to "An anode rod is necessary because it prevents any corrosion of a water heater's metal lining." Our gas water heater was installed Dec/1989 when the home was built and I never thought about cathodic protection. The hot water output and quality still seems to be fine. Anyway the anode, if present, must be 23 years old. Where should I look for it? You can see bottom part of the blue heater here: » noisy furnace fan |
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Subaru1-3-2-4
Premium Member
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT |
Subaru
Premium Member
2013-Jan-26 1:22 pm
most would be on the top it looks like a huge hex bolt but recessed, the AoSmith I think had a plastic cover over it I can't remember right now.. If yours does not have it maybe the outlet pipe is the anode? |
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boaterbob
Premium Member
join:2005-08-01
Moncks Corner, SC |
So, back to the OPs hot water issue - by now you've read the suggested links - correct? If by chance you skipped that part, you missed the #1 cause of your issue - read Sediment Control (about 2/3 of the way down at - » www.waterheaterrescue.co ··· nce.htmlAlso, on the same page are pics of anodes and where they are typically located. |
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Subaru1-3-2-4
Premium Member
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT |
Subaru
Premium Member
2013-Jan-26 2:57 pm
did you mean to reply to me? I was referring to the poster above me. |
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boaterbob
Premium Member
join:2005-08-01
Moncks Corner, SC |
Sorry - I was simply summarizing this thread and leading the OP to maybe consider that a dissolved/broken dip tube could be his reason for not as much hot water as he wanted. |
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Subaru1-3-2-4
Premium Member
join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT |
Subaru
Premium Member
2013-Jan-26 3:24 pm
said by boaterbob:Sorry - I was simply summarizing this thread and leading the OP to maybe consider that a dissolved/broken dip tube could be his reason for not as much hot water as he wanted.
interesting I was just looking and did not know back in the mid to early 90's they had an issue with them breaking off. |
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Bob4Account deleted
join:2012-07-22
New Jersey |
Bob4
Member
2013-Jan-26 8:21 pm
In Canada, the water heaters have the cold inlet at the bottom of the tank (on the side). No dip tube. That makes so much sense to me, I don't know why we don't see that type here. |
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to lutful
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TheSMJ
join:2009-08-19
Farmington, MI |
to boaterbob
said by boaterbob:So, back to the OPs hot water issue - by now you've read the suggested links - correct?
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Yes, I've read those links. I'm still not sure if it's worth doing all this to an old tank which AFAIK was never properly maintained. As far as flushing goes, it's possible I could open the valve and never get it to close right again, assuming it doesn't clog with sediment the moment I open the valve. Before I was sure I'd have to replace it. Now, I'm on the fence. |
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to Bob4
I live in Canada, and I have never seen anything like that. |
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Bob4Account deleted
join:2012-07-22
New Jersey |
Bob4
Member
2013-Jan-27 7:28 am
said by Cho Baka:I live in Canada, and I have never seen anything like that.
Here you go... Bottom entry... "Proudly Canadian" » www.giantinc.com/english ··· cade.htm |
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I don't doubt they exist, my point is that they aren't universal like you seemed to imply in your previous post. |
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Bob4Account deleted
join:2012-07-22
New Jersey |
Bob4
Member
2013-Jan-27 8:33 am
Regardless, I don't understand why manufacturers don't get rid of dip tubes and use "bottom entry" tanks. |
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to Bob4
said by Bob4:In Canada, the water heaters have the cold inlet at the bottom of the tank (on the side). No dip tube. That makes so much sense to me, I don't know why we don't see that type here.
Could it be because they are easier to replace if the bottom feed pipe doesn't have to be moved out of the way to get a new heater into position? Could be just "the way it is" but I'd be interested if anybody can give a historical perspective. Regarding the copper conductor used to bond hot and cold pipes, it's a good idea even if those pipes are not relied upon for ground. With few exceptions, every pipe in the house should be grounded to ensure it does not become HOT. |
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