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jrs8084
Premium
join:2002-03-02
Statesville, NC
kudos:1

reply to Dennis

Re: Clogged kitchen drain, drain snake not permanently fixing...

said by Dennis:

said by patcat88:

You did take apart the trap and look at it carefully? Its just compression fitting so no PVC work is involved.

Oh yeah,when I replaced the sink about 2 1/2 years ago I took everything apart and cleaned it (had to replace some of it but that's a different story about emergency plumbers).

»www.dennisjudd.com/?p=1509

Ahhh, yes, the "Mother's Day Gift" that you got slack for until you explained she had been asking for a new one.


Bubba
GIT-R-DONE
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join:2002-08-19
St. Andrews
Reviews:
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reply to Dennis
While I accept that your above drawing is a "rough sketch" and a vent pipe is not shown, do you know if that area of plumbing has a proper vent pipe running out the roof ? Also, in your first post you mention pvc. Is it pvc all the way to the end of the 23' run or is there any cast iron involved ?

I had a 1959 home once and due to a similar situation, ended up replacing cast iron under house with 2" pvc. The cast iron was fully blocked in every 5' section I would remove on a 40' run.



Dennis
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Algonquin, IL
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Home Improvement

said by Bubba:

While I accept that your above drawing is a "rough sketch" and a vent pipe is not shown, do you know if that area of plumbing has a proper vent pipe running out the roof ?

Yeah I know for 100% it does. Out here cast iron wasn't used in houses built in the 80's but I did grow up on a house built in the 50's so trust me I know that pain.

I'm gonna go with it's just sludge build up over time and years, plus since we switched from phosphate based soaps it's probably just exasperating the lack of slope since back then we just "phosphated" it up. :P

But we put next to nothing down there honestly, we compost and even have a strainer on the drain. Bacon grease etc goes in the garbage as does any fry oil (rarely used).

I had to snake it again today and even tried plunging it first with no joy. I'm leaning towards the Clog Hog....wish I could return those drain snakes I bought but I don't want to be that guy.
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cwm1276

join:2004-01-16
Stillman Valley, IL

reply to Dennis
I went down stairs and could lift the pipe slightly, you could tell by how heavy the pipe was if it was plugged, normally the pipe should not weigh much if it empty.



Pacrat
Old and Cranky
Premium,MVM
join:2001-03-10
Cortland, OH

reply to Dennis
I would try a bottle of Dawn dishwashing liquid rather than any "laundry" detergent. It works amazingly well at cutting grease. We use it in the laundry to spot treat grease stains on clothing. I'd use the whole bottle, prededed by some hot water, and then use just enough hot water to get it into the drain pipe, and let it set for awhile. It also works to degrease oven pans with baked on residue from my wife's lasagna. It has to be cheaper than hiring the chore out to some plumber. It may take a few treatments, but it still has to be the cheapest option mentioned so far. And quite honestly, it'd be cheaper to replace the whole horizontal run than to "route" it out. It's worth a shot!!!
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ptrowski
Got Helix?
Premium
join:2005-03-14
Putnam, CT
kudos:4
Reviews:
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^this.
Had the exact same problem that Dennis did at an apartment we rented in FL. The drain in the kitchen would slow and then back up, maintenance would come out and snake it, work for a bit then nothing. What I did was start filling the largest pots I could find with water and get it to boiling. Added Dawn to it, poured it down the drain and let it sit for 10 mins. I then kept a steady supply of boiling water pouring down it an all of the sudden it drained like new.
According to the maintenance guy the previous tenents were from Mexico and cooked with lard, lots of beef etc. Over time this must have formed a blockage so it would stop up. Snake it, poke a hole, and then back up again. Finally the soap and steady stream of boiling water fully cleared it. Never had an issue again.
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timinhomergl

@vinakom.net

reply to Dennis
I had the same issue a year ago in our house. I have a similar pipe run as you.

I cut into the pipe close to the sink in the basement. There was enough wiggle room in the pipe to slip a painters pole with a rag duct taped to the end and move the mess down the line to an area with more access.

In that area I made two cuts to make an 8 foot section that I could remove. I then put one end in a trash can and from the other end run the painters pole and rag down pushing all the gunk in to the trash.

I just had to buy 3 Fernco flexible couplers and it is back in business and easy to get to next time. I also added some extra strapping support in the larger section. That is also easily removed for maintenance.



anon 9856748

@107.43.164.x

reply to ptrowski

said by ptrowski:

^this.
Had the exact same problem that Dennis did at an apartment we rented in FL. The drain in the kitchen would slow and then back up, maintenance would come out and snake it, work for a bit then nothing. What I did was start filling the largest pots I could find with water and get it to boiling. Added Dawn to it, poured it down the drain and let it sit for 10 mins. I then kept a steady supply of boiling water pouring down it an all of the sudden it drained like new.
According to the maintenance guy the previous tenents were from Mexico and cooked with lard, lots of beef etc. Over time this must have formed a blockage so it would stop up. Snake it, poke a hole, and then back up again. Finally the soap and steady stream of boiling water fully cleared it. Never had an issue again.

yeah this ^^^

i did this in Tennessee, some kind of group home, clogged up shower drain, clogged up kitchen sink - just get a set of those cheapy chinese made 5 gallon stock pots if you can (at least 2) and then get that water boiling. i used laundry detergent, which i think is the strongest, but also Ajax dish liquid (cheap in big big bottles at walmart). i think i used 6-8 of the stock pots full of hot water detergent for each drain, but afterwards, the water drained so fast out of each drain that it made that slurping sound and had a kind of whirlpool look while going down the drain.


Hawk
Premium
join:2003-08-25
La Quinta, CA

1 edit

reply to ptrowski

said by ptrowski:

What I did was start filling the largest pots I could find with water and get it to boiling. Added Dawn to it, poured it down the drain and let it sit for 10 mins. I then kept a steady supply of boiling water pouring down it an all of the sudden it drained like new

Perhaps a good idea but one might exercize caution given the following...

Physical Properties of PVC Pipe Value Test Method
GENERAL
Cell Classification 12454 ASTM D1784
Maximum Service Temperature 140°F
Color white, dark gray
Water Absorption % increase 24hrs @ 25°C .05 ASTM D570
Hardness, Rockwell 110-120 ASTM D785
Poisson's Ratio @ 73°F .410
Hazen-Williams Factor C=150
MECHANICAL
Specific Gravity (g/cu,cm) 1.40 ± .02 ASTM D792
Tensile Strength, psi @ 73°F 7,450 ASTM D638
Modulus of Elasticity, psi @ 73°F (Tensile Modulus) 420,000 ASTM D638
Flexural Strength, psi @ 73°F 14,450 ASTM D790
Compressive Strength, psi @ 73°F 9,600 ASTM D695
Izod Impact, ft-lb./in. @ 73°F .75 ASTM D256
THERMAL
Coefficient of Linear Expansion (in/in/°F) 2.9 x 10 (to -5) ASTM D696
Coefficient of Thermal Conductivity (BTU/in/hr/ft/°F) 3.5 ASTM C177
Heat Distortion Temperature, °F @ 264 psi 170 ASTM D648
Specific Heat, Cal/°C/gm .25 ASTM D2766
ELECTRICAL
Dielectric Strength, V/mil 1,413 ASTM D149
Dielectric Constant, 60 Hz, 30°F 3.7 ASTM D150
Volume Resistivity, ohm/cm @ 95°C, ohms/cm 1.2 x 10 (to 12) ASTM D257
Harvel PVC Pipe is non-electrolytic
FLAMMABILITY
Flammability Rating V-0 UL 94
Flame Spread Index



Hall
Premium,MVM
join:2000-04-28
Dayton, OH
kudos:2

Ummm, I think it would have been sufficient to only copy-n-paste the max service temp line...



Hawk
Premium
join:2003-08-25
La Quinta, CA

Perhaps... I thought it was pretty dang informative myself.



leibold
Premium,MVM
join:2002-07-09
Sunnyvale, CA
kudos:6
Reviews:
·SONIC.NET

I didn't think it was informative enough:

1.) What is the definition of "Maximum Service Temperature" ?
Is this the maximum (continuous) environmental temperature under which the PVC pipe will still perform as required or is this indeed the maximum temperature for hot water running through the pipe (even briefly) ?

2.) Where did those specs come from and are they equally applicable for every kind of PVC pipe ? A quick google for maximum PVC pipe temperature gave results of 140F, 160F and 212F which indicates to me that it varies. It also appears that some manufacturers qualify the maximum service temperature with a specific pressure (allowing for higher temperatures at lower pressure).

Since some areas permit PVC pipe for hot water distribution in homes (which can exceed 140F) the posted limitation seems questionable as universally applicable. It also doesn't make sense to me that draining boiling water in the kitchen sink (ever cooked pasta ?) would risk permanent damage to the drain.

However, as long as there is some PVC sewer pipe with such a low temperature limit then the warning would be well justified (at least for extended exposure to very hot water).

I'm glad I have cast iron sewers and therefore don't need to worry about using boiling water to clear slow drains.
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AsherN

join:2010-08-23
Thornhill, ON

I would guess that maximum service temperature refers to the temperature outside the pipe



UHF
All static, all day, Forever
Premium,MVM
join:2002-05-24

reply to Dennis
Try a lye based drain opener like Insta-Flo. That stuff is amazing.



TA63
ST215W
Premium,MVM
join:2000-11-23
there
kudos:2

reply to Dennis
Metamucil cleans my pipes.


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