 alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | Stairs resurfacing/refacing My basement renovation is progressing quite fast thanks to my family being gone to China for a few more weeks.
Here's an issue I have to address: The existing stairs.
They never were made to be more than utilitarian cellar stairs. Nails are visible and the wood is bare.
What would be the easiest way to address this, aside from putting on new carpet?
I'm thinking of using a kit like this
I could rip out the old treads, but it seems like more effort and quite more costly (20$ more per step, I have 11 steps).
Note: Only the side of the 2nd picture will be visible, and that will be covered with drywall, so the side isn't an issue. |
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lutful... of ideasPremium
join:2005-06-16
Ottawa, ON Reviews:
 ·TekSavvy DSL
| I am also considering this type of "false tread" option for main and basement stairs.
Your stairs seem narrower than 42" ... Lowes has 36". Rona too.
»www.lowes.ca/interior-stair-trea···temsName
Meanwhile a Canadian stair making company I found online has lots more options for size and wood type.
»www.scotiastairs.com/categories.···e+Treads |
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 MsradellP.E.Premium
join:2008-12-25
Louisville, KY
 ·AT&T U-Verse
| reply to alkizmo
I've never seen one of those repair kits used, but... It seems like the existing steps would have to be in perfect condition, or else the thin piece you put on will be subject to cracking, especially along the front. It looks like several of the steps in your pictures has a front edge broken down considerably, which I think would cause major problems. You'll probably be better off in the long run doing it right and replacing the steps with new solid Oak/Maple ones. |
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 PacratOld and CrankyPremium,MVM
join:2001-03-10
Cortland, OH | reply to alkizmo
Just by what I see in the pics, the only things you can probably save are the risers and facings. The treads look unsalvagable, as they are split, chipped, and warped. If you're serious about the renovation, I'd definitely get new treads... even if you have to buy just a few at a time.
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Keep your eye on the ball, your shoulder to the wheel, your nose to the grindstone, and your ear to the ground. Now, try to work in that position!!! |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | reply to Msradell
said by Msradell:It looks like several of the steps in your pictures has a front edge broken down considerably, which I think would cause major problems.
said by Pacrat:The treads look unsalvagable, as they are split, chipped, and warped For the front edge (nosing), those would have to be cut off to be flush with the riser anyway if I install the kit I linked.
As for split,chipped, warped, well I don't see that. Sure there are some splits where the nails go in, and one of the step is peeling off because the nail got unhinged, which I can fix.
I'll take off the rest of the carpet and see what it looks like. However the stairs themselves feel very sturdy when walking on them.
Anyway I'll take those factors into consideration and shop around to see if there are cheaper new tread kits. |
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| reply to alkizmo
Those were originally just utility cellar stairs. The treads are not proper stair tread material with a bullnose front edge, but are construction grade SPF 2X12, hence the slight warping/splitting and cracked off front edges. The risers were originally open, the 1/2" plywood slabs were added later. A riser should be installed first, so it would extend down behind the tread, and is nailed to the tread from behind, both for extra support of the tread and so it doesn't deflect when you knock into it with your toe while climbing the steps. Just looking at the pic, the stringers don't look too bad. You could slap some carpet over it and nobody would know what was underneath it, or you could tear off the treads and risers and redo them in a manner consistent with the rest of your renovation. The only structural issue I would foresee with new treads and risers is there are only 2 stringers, on the side ends, not 3 with one up the middle. That makes for a pretty long unsupported span for a standard 5/4 stair tread, which wasn't considered a problem with the original 2x dimensional lumber as a tread. Keep those pictures coming...
dw |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | said by dick white:Those were originally just utility cellar stairs. The treads are not proper stair tread material with a bullnose front edge, but are construction grade SPF 2X12, hence the slight warping/splitting and cracked off front edges. Correct. That basement was pretty much just a cellar.
said by dick white: A riser should be installed first, so it would extend down behind the tread, and is nailed to the tread from behind, both for extra support of the tread and so it doesn't deflect when you knock into it with your toe while climbing the steps. You mean a riser block?
said by dick white:The only structural issue I would foresee with new treads and risers is there are only 2 stringers, on the side ends, not 3 with one up the middle. That makes for a pretty long unsupported span for a standard 5/4 stair tread, which wasn't considered a problem with the original 2x dimensional lumber as a tread. So, even more trouble if I replace the treads, I'd need a middle stringer, even if they are just 36" wide.
I find it now harder to be convinced to replace the treads 
What more is there to see? The state of the rest of the steps to see if a cover would suffice? |
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PacratOld and CrankyPremium,MVM
join:2001-03-10
Cortland, OH | reply to alkizmo
Another thing I noticed is that the bottom step has much less rise than the rest. from a safety standpoint, that's pretty-much a "No-No". It has been studied, and determined that unequal rise distances on stairs can cause "trips" and "falls". The rise doesn't have to be "standard" but it should be even for all steps. Even differences of less than an inch can present a "hazard". You might want to look into that. Just sayin'!!!
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Keep your eye on the ball, your shoulder to the wheel, your nose to the grindstone, and your ear to the ground. Now, try to work in that position!!! |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | said by Pacrat:Another thing I noticed is that the bottom step has much less rise than the rest. That's because of my new subfloor. This rose the floor by 2.5". |
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robbinPremium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1
1 edit | The entire staircase need to be redesigned to factor in the new floor level. The easiest way to do this is to just tear out what is there and build from scratch.
[edit] The risers should vary no more than 3/8" for the entire staircase. |
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| reply to alkizmo
said by alkizmo:said by dick white: A riser should be installed first, so it would extend down behind the tread, and is nailed to the tread from behind, both for extra support of the tread and so it doesn't deflect when you knock into it with your toe while climbing the steps. You mean a riser block? The bottom edge of the riser panel is nailed through from behind into the back edge of the lower tread, and yes, there is a small block attached to the underside of the upper tread near the front, to which the top edge of the riser panel is tacked. That keeps the top edge from deflecting too.
As for mo'pics, I was just referring to keeping us up to date on the overall project.
dw |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1
1 edit | said by dick white:As for mo'pics, I was just referring to keeping us up to date on the overall project. Progress... (still gotta tapcon some of the plywood boards tonight)
I'm hoping to have pulled up the VB sheet in the rim joist + spray foam over it and have tuck taped the VB around the receptacles & windows in the middle of the weekend.
said by robbin:The risers should vary no more than 3/8" for the entire staircase. Unless I make a landing. |
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 DennisPremium,Mod
join:2001-01-26
Algonquin, IL
kudos:5
Chicago
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Home Improvement
| reply to Pacrat
said by Pacrat:Another thing I noticed is that the bottom step has much less rise than the rest. from a safety standpoint, that's pretty-much a "No-No". It has been studied, and determined that unequal rise distances on stairs can cause "trips" and "falls". The rise doesn't have to be "standard" but it should be even for all steps. Even differences of less than an inch can present a "hazard". You might want to look into that. Just sayin'!!!
I know, some friends of ours just bought an older house nearby and they have a similar little run of three stairs but like yours the bottom one rise is smaller. First time we were over my wife fell going down them and landed on her butt. I'd really like to echo the sentiments that they need to be equal.
Back to the point on hand, you can always take a play from me and just berber carpet them.
»www.dennisjudd.com/?p=1218
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My Blog. Because I desperately need the acknowledgement of others.
The Judd Family site! |
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robbinPremium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1 | reply to alkizmo
said by alkizmo:said by robbin:The risers should vary no more than 3/8" for the entire staircase. Unless I make a landing. From looking at the pics the landing would go almost halfway across the room. Might as well just do it right, otherwise you just cheapen the entire job. |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | said by robbin:From looking at the pics the landing would go almost halfway across the room. Might as well just do it right, otherwise you just cheapen the entire job.
I don't know if this is large enough of a landing
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robbinPremium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1 | I'm not an expert on stair code but I believe to qualify as a landing it has to extend 3' in the direction of the stairs. |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | said by robbin:I'm not an expert on stair code but I believe to qualify as a landing it has to extend 3' in the direction of the stairs.
Well if that's the case, then my drawing is only 3-4 inches too short.
edit - Yeah I found on some website saying that the depth of a landing should be at least equal to the width of the stair, in my case, 36 inches (3 feet). I'll ask TelcoMTL since he's a house inspector in my area. He'll know what landings should be like. |
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dmagerl
join:2007-08-06
Woodstock, IL | reply to alkizmo
For pretty much the same amount of money you can buy a brand new Oak stair tread at Home Depot. |
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alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | said by dmagerl:For pretty much the same amount of money you can buy a brand new Oak stair tread at Home Depot.
The treads they sell still lack the nosing (8$) and the riser (6$)
The kit has it all and I don't have to worry about the missing middle stringer because I'd keep the 2" thick piece of wood underneath for structural strength. |
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 GooberPremium
join:2000-12-17
Naperville, IL
kudos:5
 ·Dish Network
| When we had our stairs done, I used a similar system. If we hadn't, it would have meant the stair guy busting into our newly remodeled basement ceiling. So, instead, we bought a similar system. The stair guy cut off the nosing on all the steps, installed the replacements and off we went. Less time, mess and damage. No squeaks and looks great.
»www.stairsupplies.com/eng/produc···ads/8073
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"You lie!" Talk about an understatement, Joe. |
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