Shaw → Re: Maple Ridge node saturation

Either you're not connecting to YOUR wireless AP, or your wired network card seems to be pooched. Have you tried with another computer to see if it gets the same results, wired in?

Indeed, that is a possibility.

www.ipchicken.com on both wireless and wired, they should match.

I'm definately connected to my wireless network. Every computer in my house gets the same connection when wired, same results Wifi, and all my computers in my house aren't screwed that's for sure.

They do. What if they didnt?

Few things that makes this story a PEBKAC.

A) He blames ISP for wireless full speed, wired slow speed. Anyone with decent networking knowledge knows it's not the ISP's fault.

B) He says 2.53-3.00 speeds. He never mentions Mb/s or MB/s. Posting a screenshot of the wired speedtest and wireless speedtest would be better.

C) Doesn't know about why the WAN IP (at ipchicken) should match for wired and wireless devices.

That being said. If the screenshots of speedtest show a difference, then it's highly likely that either you:

1) Screwed up the network settings on your wired devices, like turning off full-duplex or added some ridiculous firewall that's throttling your wired computer.

2) Your wired computer is so old it has trouble running flash speed tests.

3) Your comparing speeds of wired download speeds from an application that's not a real indication of a speedtest (like downloading windows updates, updating a program from website) vs a real speedtest on your wireless device.

4) Your router is screwed up. Either through settings or a legitimate hardware failure.

5) He runs a speedtest from his browser on his wired computer, and it shows the speed in MB/s. He runs a speedtest on some app on his wireless device, and it shows the speed in Mb/s. My money is on this.

Like a said. Easiest way to first verify this issue is post screenshots of both wired and wireless speeds.

No, I'm not using any other programs to measure my download speed. This test is using speed test.

Wired

»www.speedtest.net/result ··· 0686.png

Wireless

»www.speedtest.net/result ··· 0232.png

I don't screw around with ''full-duplex''
My computer is less than a year old
I don't have any applications running that tell me my actual speeds.
I never play around with settings in my router, I've looked, but never touched.

How are you connected to the modem? Do you have your own router or switch, or straight into the modem?

I find it hard to believe that you had more than 1 cable go bad at once but you never know. Has Shaw tried swapping modems? The switch on the back of the modem may have gone bad.

Connected to the modem using a cat5 cable. Using Shaw's Gateway if that helps. Shaw did swap modems. It just got shipped out a month ago, don't think it would.

So you have the same problem to more than one speedtest server? When you're downloading from a fast website its slow also?

What are the specs of the PC's having problems?

Yes I do, even if it's relatively fast.

Desktop specs:
Compaq Presario SR5413WM
Processor: AMD Athlon LE-1640
RAM: 4.00 GB
HDD: 1 TB Hard drive
Graphics: Nvidia GeForce 7600 GT
Sound: Realtek HD Audio

For humor, can you scan the slow computers, with MalwareBytes on a full scan?

I made myself laugh Kevin. There was nothing found.

Nothing at all? Or nothing worth noting? humm.... haha

I didn't think it would, it was worth checking to rule it out though

Yeah that hardware with Vista should be able to handle 20+ Mbps just fine. Usually a problem like that is either the router acting up, a cable, the ethernet port in your PC or a configuration problem with the TCP/IP stack in your OS. Not your actual connection.

Have you tried a factory reset on the modem/router? You can reset the TCP stack by doing this: »www.speedguide.net/faq_i ··· ?qid=272

If that doesn't help would you mind posting the Malwarebytes log?

I'm not running Vista, I'm running windows 7.
I'll post the malwarebytes log when I can. I have resetted it. I'll try the TCP later today as well. (If that applies to windows 7?)

Yes it applies to 7 as well, here is a slightly different method (assuming you haven't turned UAC off): »support.microsoft.com/kb/299357

When you say you did a factory reset, you mean you stuck something in the small hole probably at the back of the router and held the button down? Depending on the router you may need to pull the power while you're holding the button down and after you plug the power back in for 30 secs or so.

Scuba, Shaw likes to use modem/router combos these days and it sounds like he has one but he has never confirmed.

So you would need to phone Shaw to bridge the modem and test with just one computer plugged in. When done, phone Shaw back and ask them to turn off bridge mode. Pain in the ass but if nothing else works you could give that a shot.

@Ruiner:

That is correct, I've done a factory reset once already, but haven't done the idea you've suggested to pull out the plug after I have pressed the little button on the back.

I indeed have a router/modem combo.

Supposedly the generic recommended procedure is to push the button, wait around 30 sec, pull the power and wait again, then plug it back in and wait before releasing the button.

That's to cover all bases I guess, so if Cisco recommends something else for the model you have then what they say should work fine.

I'll point this out again for all of you thinking its his PC. Most likely its a problem with the modem/router.