Technical > Home Improvement > Water heater rusty / leaking

reply to TherapyChick

Re: Water heater rusty / leaking

reply to mityfowl
I had a plumber come out yesterday, that pipe was leaking under the insulation. (a fine mist leak, but steady)

He replaced the pipe, cleaned up what he could of the rust.

It was $107.00.

I plan on moving from this house in the next 2 years, so if it'll last a bit long I'll be good.

He said to get a new 50 gallon (I think it was 50 gallons anyway) Bradford White one would be about $975 which included installation, so if it breaks down completely then I'll do that obviously.
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Therapy Chicks

reply to TherapyChick
A $107 to roll a truck and fix pipe!

That's great.

Good luck.

reply to TherapyChick
The top of your tank with the pressure release valve looks just like my aunt's GE water heater.

reply to TherapyChick

reply to Coma
Would it say it on the heater?

I should be identified on a metal tag around the valve stem of the T&P valve.

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February is National Cherry Month

reply to mityfowl

Unless you a planning on switching to electric that won't work.

Right, I meant to send the gas one on the link, was looking at a couple, but yes, it's gas, not electric.
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Therapy Chicks

This one. »www.lowes.com/pd_333595-135-ND50···rating|1

Last water heater I had to purchase was a Kenmore 80 gallon electric 12 year warranty unit.

Think the thermostat failed just after first year. When they replaced it I just purchased a new service contract for another year. Cheaper than just paying for service call. About 1 week before my contract ended the tank started leaking.

So in short not happy with Kenmore.

On positive note had no issues with Sears sending someone out to fix and replace tank. Did have to pay $35 for permit when they replaced the tank.

reply to TherapyChick
I took a picture of it today..

I never seen the yellow warning tag that's melted to the part that screws in to the tank for the T&P valve.. nevertheless I was not going to try and open it..

This water heater was made 1/2003 as far as I know the rod has never been changed on it..

Speaking of that how long is the rod anyways because about 5-6 ft above it is the floor joists for the upstairs and if it's long it could be an issue getting it out.

*edit

Doh forgot about exhaust vent for melting things




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It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!




LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!

OH my That flue looks partially if not completely blocked. I sure hope they have a working CO detector because they're gonna need it!

/M

the furnace and hot water tie into the same flue.. Dumb question but how would you really know if it's blocked? The water heater at the time was not on but I haven't seen any changes since it last started looking like this maybe 4 years ago?

reply to Subaru
While it may not be blocked any more, at one time it definitely was. Check it YESTERDAY. I'd clean it up and replace that insulation once this is done to make sure any new damage is obvious.

The melted pipe insulation and plastic tag shows a large amount of the hot combustion gasses were not going up the flue but instead out into the room. All that corrosion says the humidity from it condensed on those parts (combustion condensate is very acidic). In normal operation, not enough gas escapes to do any of that.

/M

reply to Coma
It must of happened awhile ago because nothing further has changed.

reply to mackey
Ok so I will change that, but should I change the T&P valve as well? heck you can't rotate the little lever that you flip up to test it because it's so badly caked around inside..

It's impossible to change the rod on this water heater..