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dlsauers

join:2005-10-25
Wellston, OH

Gas Range - Oven heat/cycle issue

I have a Kenmore Elite gas range which has developed an issue.

The oven will not heat up or recycle unless there is a burner running on the range top.

Example: hit pre-heat, start. The oven may or may not start the pre-heat cycle if it does start, it will take 20-30+ minutes to "pre-heat." Turn a burner on, and then repeat it will pre-heat in the normal 8-10 minutes (per manual) does not matter temp setting.

Same for using an oven cycle, broil cycle. The oven will not heat up and then stay on temp unless a burner is running.

As the unit is under service agreement a service call was conducted. I was unfortunately not able to be present during this "service call." The pre-call script diagnosis suggested the regulator be replaced. Since this is not a "on truck" part one was sent ahead for the "tech" to install during the call.

Regulator replaced, NO CHANGE. Problem persists.

Tech then explains to the on site person that its a AC outlet wiring issuing and the plug is miswired and the range is not getting a ground. Again I was not present to say.. OK..lets check and see... it was told to me that a test was done with a VOM to determine this....

So I recheck

Outlet tester - correct

VOM

long and short blade - 120V
long to GND - 0V
short to GND - 120V

OK check all the outlets in the home, Same as above.

So at this point I believe the "tech" was stumped, didn't want to use a lifeline and call for help. Just wanted to complete the regulator swap, pass the buck, keep the score up, and keep moving on the calls.

So any one have an idea of what may be the cause of the heat/re-cycle/start for the oven? If you want to use the oven the only way to keep it to temp for baking is keep a burner burning.

Any ideas? Please be as detailed as possible so I can have a new service call and present the facts on what needs fixed and then have then pay you!



mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3

1 recommendation



The problem is clear:

They aren't sending "techs" with any kind of training, they seem to be only parts-changers.

Tell them you want an actual person who can DIAGNOSE and REPAIR the problem. There should be no reason for you to do the work for them.


AsherN
Premium
join:2010-08-23
Thornhill, ON
reply to dlsauers

Igniter going bad?



Bornloser

join:2002-09-04
Alliance, OH
reply to dlsauers

Spark ignition in the oven or glowbar? If it's a glowbar, it's probably a weak ignitor which they can check with an ammeter (if the sears bozos even have one).
If it is spark ignition, it's more than likely a spark module.


lutful
... of ideas
Premium
join:2005-06-16
Ottawa, ON
kudos:1
reply to dlsauers

There is one possible explanation ... suppose the internal valve for the oven side is not working as well as it should and needs more gas pressure than before.

Now imagine that having the burner running gets the gas flowing faster in the main pipe which applies a bit more pressure into that faulty valve?



jack b
Gone Fishing
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-08
Cape Cod
kudos:1
reply to dlsauers

Your utility main gas service pressure regulator might be faulty.

If your house no-load gas pressure is WAY too high, then having a burner on may bring the pressure down to where the oven/broiler valve operates normally. Without a top burner on, the valve can't open against the excess pressure.

Call the gas company to investigate, an over pressure condition could become dangerous.
--
~Help Find a Cure for Cancer~
~Proud Member of Team Discovery ~


dlsauers

join:2005-10-25
Wellston, OH
reply to Bornloser

said by Bornloser:
Spark ignition in the oven or glowbar? If it's a glowbar, it's probably a weak ignitor which they can check with an ammeter (if the sears bozos even have one).
If it is spark ignition, it's more than likely a spark module.

This was on my list of options... but again I not Mr. appliance.

As for ignition type... Have not a clue...

Model is #790-79422601

»www.repairclinic.com/Kenmore-Ran···er-Parts

So maybe its an igniter v. glow bar... based on igniter parts.

Manual doesn't list it directly that I can find.. just lots of BS on using burners etc..

Any good way to check via VOM.. may just have to download the service manual.

said by jack b:
Your utility main gas service pressure regulator might be faulty.

If your house no-load gas pressure is WAY too high, then having a burner on may bring the pressure down to where the oven/broiler valve operates normally. Without a top burner on, the valve can't open against the excess pressure.
Hmmm.. OK... incoming pressure should be 2psi correct?

I think I have a pressure test gauge from some thing else to check it.

Have a gas dryer with no issue...hmmm....

Thanks for the input and keep it coming.

Thanks.


retired

@rr.com
reply to dlsauers

Sounds like a wiring problem internal in the backsplash.Lost hot to the glowbar and when you turn on a burnner you complete the hot to the glow bar. Most likely melted wiring. With out a wiring diagram not familair sears ranges.



jack b
Gone Fishing
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-08
Cape Cod
kudos:1
reply to dlsauers

said by dlsauers:


Hmmm.. OK... incoming pressure should be 2psi correct?

Typically gas pressure inside the house is 1/4 lb, (7 inches water column) with a maximum of 1/2 lb.

If for some strange reason you have delivery pressure inside your building that is designed over 1/2 lb, then each appliance is required to have a sub regulator at the appliance gas connection to limit the inlet pressure to a maximum of 1/2 lb.

This is not to be confused with the appliance pressure regulator that comes from the factory built-in to the stove.
--
~Help Find a Cure for Cancer~
~Proud Member of Team Discovery ~

lutful
... of ideas
Premium
join:2005-06-16
Ottawa, ON
kudos:1
reply to jack b

said by jack b:

If your house no-load gas pressure is WAY too high, then having a burner on may bring the pressure down

Obviously this makes more sense than my hunch of low pressure.


Pacrat
Old and Cranky
Premium,MVM
join:2001-03-10
Cortland, OH
kudos:2
Reviews:
·Time Warner Cable
reply to jack b

said by jack b:

said by dlsauers:


Hmmm.. OK... incoming pressure should be 2psi correct?

Typically gas pressure inside the house is 1/4 lb, (7 inches water column) with a maximum of 1/2 lb.

That's kinda what I was thinking... internal gas pressure was measured in ounces per square inch, not punds. I seem to recall talking to one of the guys who replaced my meter/regulator a few years back and he said something about main line pressure being around 50 PSI and reduced at the regulator to just a couple of ounces.
--
Keep your eye on the ball, your shoulder to the wheel, your nose to the grindstone, and your ear to the ground. Now, try to work in that position!!!


Bornloser

join:2002-09-04
Alliance, OH
Reviews:
·WOW Internet and..
reply to dlsauers

Since your model does have a glowbar, I would be willing to bet that this is the problem. When you turn on the oven (with no top burners on), your oven burner should light in approx. 1 minute or less. If it is taking 2 to 3 minutes or longer for the burner to light, then the ignitor is weak. You would know for sure with an ammeter (should draw about 3-3.2amps). A VOM won't tell you anything. I know all this due to experience. 36 years in the appliance repair field and certified.


dlsauers

join:2005-10-25
Wellston, OH

said by Bornloser:
ammeter (should draw about 3-3.2amps). A VOM won't tell you anything. I know all this due to experience. 36 years in the appliance repair field and certified.
VOM = volt/ohm/ammeter, I use OLD OLD OLD OLD abbreviations as thats what I learned a LOOOOOOOOOOONG time ago and yes it was in a far off galaxy..

I've got one of those new fandanlged meters that measures about everything out there.


jack b
Gone Fishing
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-08
Cape Cod
kudos:1

If you can, do this: measure the current draw of the oven ignitor and that will either rule the ignitor out as a problem or confirm it's "weak".

Most of these valves and ignitors are 120 volts so be careful. Remove one ignitor lead from the valve and put your muli-meter in series with the valve and lead. Set the meter to Amps/AC and in the 10 Amp range. Turn on the oven and wait for the Amp reading to stabilize, for about 60-90 seconds.

There will be a tag on the valve telling it's rating, typically It should draw somewhere between 3.0 - 3.5 amps.
--
~Help Find a Cure for Cancer~
~Proud Member of Team Discovery ~