| Deck extension: How to but the new outside girder Making the (1985) deck 5' wider. Has 4x4 posts 3' off the ground deck, with 2x8 girder.
The new section, 2x10 girder (new code). Code says girders must but at the post with 1.5" on the post and with two 5/8" through bolts. This doesn't sound strong, and the existing deck has no bolts so the bolts may stand-out.
Was considering adding fascia to the girder, 1/2" of something -just to make it look better.
Not 'flipping the house' but wish to use the code as a guide. Is there a better way than drilling huge holes through the 4x4? |
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 35245635
join:2013-03-04
North Reading, MA
1 edit | Normally you can use engineered screws in place of bolts. You'd have to check with the Building Inspector in your city but one of the LOK line screws should work.
»www.fastenmaster.com/lok-line.html
You could paint the heads brown to match after they are installed. You could even add a few to the old deck to be safe so it looks the same.
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"Everyone has his day and some days last longer than others." - Winston Churchill |
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 cdruGo ColtsPremium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7 | reply to CajunWon
said by CajunWon:Code says girders must but at the post with 1.5" on the post and with two 5/8" through bolts. This doesn't sound strong, and the existing deck has no bolts so the bolts may stand-out. You might double check on this. I think they are meaning that the post must sit on at least 1-1/2" of the 4x4, as oppose to bolted to the outside and relying solely on the sheer strength of the fastener. I personally would do a 4x6 that's notched so that at least 3" nominal of each girder is resting on the post.
Another possible option is to replace the entire girder with one that's long enough in one continuous run. |
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 Camelot OnePremium,MVM
join:2001-11-21
Greenwood, IN
kudos:1
1 edit | said by cdru:I think they are meaning that the post must sit on at least 1-1/2" of the 4x4, as oppose to bolted to the outside and relying solely on the sheer strength of the fastener. This is exactly right. I just went through a deck build last year using the national code. It now calls for notched posts rather than bolting the beam to the side. So if you are using a 2x10, you would create a notch 9.5" x 1.5" that the beam would rest on, so that the top of the 2x10 and the uncut top of the post match up. The lower uncut portion of the post would be flush with the 2x10.
And I agree with cdru, a 4x6 is a better bet. Not much room for error when you are notching half of a 4x4, and I always felt like that 1.5" left uncut just wasn't strong enough. But don't forget to increase the diameter of your footing if you step up to a 4x6. |
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cdruGo ColtsPremium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7 | said by Camelot One:And I agree with cdru, a 4x6 is a better bet. Not much room for error when you are notching half of a 4x4. But don't forget to increase the diameter of your footing if you step up to a 4x6. I think I'd still notch it so that you have 6" to rest the beam ends on. It's not that hard to notch 1.5" off. Plus even if you notch it a little deep it still has the full weight bearing capacity. The unnotched part of the post isn't under that much stress as it's only preventing the beam from twisting or coming off the post...and is helped by any joists that are fastened to the beam as well. |
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| reply to 35245635
Prefer not to replace/notch the existing post. New posts are 6x6, so can notch those.
That side is 20' will see if the yard has 2x10x20
Liking the idea of the ThruLOK product. Although it states to replace 1/2" bolt requirements. |
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cdruGo ColtsPremium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7 | said by CajunWon:Prefer not to replace/notch the existing post. New posts are 6x6, so can notch those.
How is the current beam attached to the post? If it's not already notched, it may have to be. Many jurisdictions require notched for current code. You might not have to "fix" your old deck as it likely is grandfathered in, but anything new you add would have to be if you are having it inspected. Your AHJ would be the person to talk to. |
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35245635
join:2013-03-04
North Reading, MA | reply to CajunWon
said by CajunWon:Liking the idea of the ThruLOK product. Although it states to replace 1/2" bolt requirements. Just ask the building inspector they'll know. Engineered screws are common these days.
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"Everyone has his day and some days last longer than others." - Winston Churchill |
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cdruGo ColtsPremium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7 | reply to CajunWon
said by CajunWon:Liking the idea of the ThruLOK product. Although it states to replace 1/2" bolt requirements. ThruLOK appears to have a minimum length of 6" and isn't approved for applications where there isn't a support floor (e.g. notched). It's only approved for such applications where it's only needed for lateral and uplift prevention, not weight bearing.
Something thicker like LedgerLOC might be acceptable. |
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35245635
join:2013-03-04
North Reading, MA | reply to CajunWon
I was thinking TrussLOK-Z.
"TrussLOK-Z has been engineered and approved to meet IRC requirements for multi-ply girder truss connections – replacing the use of through-bolts or nailers."
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"Everyone has his day and some days last longer than others." - Winston Churchill |
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 DataDocMy avatar looks like me, if I was 2D.Premium
join:2000-05-14
Greenville, NC | reply to Camelot One
How did you make such deep cuts and square off the bottom of the notch? Jigsaw? Sawsall? Chisel?
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Sequestration must be a great idea. Obama thought of it. |
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Camelot OnePremium,MVM
join:2001-11-21
Greenwood, IN
kudos:1 | said by DataDoc:How did you make such deep cuts and square off the bottom of the notch? Jigsaw? Sawsall? Chisel?
Circular saw with the depth set to 1.5" for the small cut, then to full depth to make most of the long cut (once from each side) then finished off with a sawsall. You have to mark it well to cut from both sides and end up with a clean cut at the end. You could also just make the long cut entirely with the sawsall, but I am not good enough for that. |
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cdruGo ColtsPremium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7 | reply to DataDoc
said by DataDoc:How did you make such deep cuts and square off the bottom of the notch? Jigsaw? Sawsall? Chisel?
10" circular saw will cut deep enough for two 2x stacked for the cross cut. Multiple cross cut passes to make fins then a hammer to knock them out, or a chisel and clean it up. You can also make the cross cut, then two cuts with the grain one on each side. You'll need to then knock it out with a hammer and do some clean up work still.
A hand saw also works as long as you're careful and stay straight.
The other way is to put the 2x on either side of the 6x6 and make two 1-1/2" notches, one on each side. What's left then sticks between the two 2x. This may not be acceptable by local code though. |
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