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North Reading, MA
reply to bcool

Re: Walkout basement doorway leaking

This happened on one of the doors on my new garage last year. All they had to do was work a piece of flashing up under the Tyvek and siding then put in a few finish nails. Granted that's not the 'proper' way to do it but after the siding is installed your options are limited.
"Everyone has his day and some days last longer than others." - Winston Churchill

The Ozarks

4 edits
And in my case, it's even a bit more challenging because we're up against masonry rock (not siding). I think I will let the guy come out to see if we can fix by removing brick mold piece in order to (hopefully) seal the door. But I'm only considering this option for the moment. If it can be done, builder still pays!

For the time being though, I did caulk the exterior trim (brick mold and adjacent rock to high heaven with good quality caulking. Then on the awning just above door, I caulked at points where it butts the rock fascia with Lexel caulking in order to impede water coming down from rock directly over the brick mold. We just had a big snow in the Ozarks and there has been some melting already with rain/snow later today. I have some paper towels up in the interior cavity above door to check for any moisture/water intrusion. So far so good which only supports the theory that water is coming in between rock and brick mold through an "unflashed" door. I guess knowing the source of leak is good part of the battle, right?

(I should add that since there appears to be no flashing on door AND that the sheathing and attached Tyvek terminate in that interior cavity I mentioned, it's at least in the realm of possibility that water from some other spot above the door could work its way down the Tyvek or even behind Tyvek/ felt backing down to and into interior cavity above walkout basement door...technically speaking anyway. I was surprised to discover the Tyvek dangling into interior cavity above door.)

NOTE TO SELF FOR THE FUTURE: caulking exterior perimeter is no substitute for correct flashing of new door. If Tyvek is acceptable as "flashing" according to loose municipal building code, then the decent thing to do would have been to at least caulk the crap out of the door before masonry rock was installed!!! Caulking is not a long term solution to this problem. Chances are good (if not effectively repaired) that this door will fail again sooner than later. Lesson learned!