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alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

1 recommendation

Basement re-finishing progress

Click for full size
Before
Click for full size
Before
Click for full size
Now
Click for full size
Now
The two pictures of "before" are taken from the almost-same-POV as the "now"

There's a lot behind those walls and a lot of other progress pictures, but I just wanted to show the almost-from-start to now pictures.
This weekend I'm sanding it down and priming the walls

God this was a long journey. I think I started the demolition of the original basement back in May 2012.


nonameyet
I Make Them Ring..Ring
Premium
join:2000-12-19
Sellersville, PA

Man Cave? Why take out the Windows?



alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

1 edit

Click for full size
said by nonameyet:

Man Cave? Why take out the Windows?

Man cave? Nah, more like a kid dump.

Take out the windows? Second picture of the "now" part never had windows.

It's never seen, but there is a 3rd window (see picture above)


chmod
Premium
join:2000-12-12
Lockport, IL

Is headroom low, or are switches mounted higher than normal?



alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

said by chmod:

Is headroom low, or are switches mounted higher than normal?

Headroom is low. The ceiling is just under 7 feet high.

I placed my light switches the same HEIGHT as the rest of the house.

robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1
reply to alkizmo

What are you going to do with the stairs and their inconsistent riser height?



alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

1 recommendation

said by robbin:

What are you going to do with the stairs and their inconsistent riser height?

Probably nothing, but if it causes people to face-plant, I will build a landing over the last step ( i already had the schematics of my shark-with-lasers).


natedj
Elected
Premium
join:2001-06-06
Columbia, SC

said by alkizmo:

Probably nothing, but if it causes people to face-plant, I will have to setup a hidden camera to catch the footage for youtube.

Shame on you for saying that.
--
Good judgement comes with experience...Experience comes after bad judgements


alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

1 recommendation

said by natedj:

Shame on you for saying that.

I understand the code problem regarding this.
I have a easy solution to it by using a landing, however my wife and I don't like the idea of a 3 feet landing in there, we're willing to live with the shorter step at the bottom. For re-sale, if the inspector whines, we'll build a landing.

After having this shorter step issue for over 2 months, nobody has ever tripped over it.

edit - damn it, you got me while I was about to go to sleep after drinking half a bottle of vodka

robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1

1 recommendation

It just cheapens your entire job. Anyone with any knowledge will know instantly -- 1) amateur, and 2) no permit or inspections. Rather sad because it appears that you have done a good job on most of it. As I posted in a previous thread the proper and fairly easy solution is to rebuild the staircase.



alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

said by robbin:

It just cheapens your entire job. Anyone with any knowledge will know instantly -- 1) amateur, and 2) no permit or inspections. Rather sad because it appears that you have done a good job on most of it. As I posted in a previous thread the proper and fairly easy solution is to rebuild the staircase.

Actually I figured it out now how to maintain less than 3/8" difference between all risers.

My last (bottom) riser is 6" off the floor, every other riser is 8". There are 11 risers in total.

By adding some thickness to certain treads, I can even out the riser height.

I start by adding 1.75" thickness to the bottom tread, then each tread up, I add the same thickness, minus 1/4"

+ 1.75" = 7.75" riser
+ 1.50" = 7.75" riser
+ 1.25" = 7.75" riser
+ 1.00" = 7.75" riser
+ 0.75" = 7.75" riser
+ 0.50" = 7.75" riser
+ 0.25" = 7.75" riser
+ 0.00" (At this point, all risers above will remain at 8")

You guys push for code and I eventually find a easier solution

Replacing the stringer would have been a pain.


Jack_in_VA
Premium
join:2007-11-26
North, VA
kudos:1
Reviews:
·Millenicom

2 edits

You guys push for code and I eventually find a easier solution

Replacing the stringer would have been a pain.

If you are satisfied with it that's all that counts. A lot of us do things not to code and certainly without permits that do nothing but raise our taxes. I got by 10 years with my basement consisting of a family room, bedroom, bathroom, laundry room and utility room. Just had to start paying more taxes then. Naturally my assessment increased. They didn't even check to see if it met existing codes.

Your pictures indicate you've done a very good job.


LazMan
Premium
join:2003-03-26
canada
reply to alkizmo

The OP's in a bit of a unique spot, when it comes to codes...

It's impossible for him to do the work, and meet code; due to where he lives... Quebec makes it illegal for homeowners to do their own electrical (seriously, anything more then changing a bulb technically requires an electrician - they won't even inspect a homeowner's work); and frowns upon homeowners doing most other work.

It's a neat combination of union and corruption getting together to create law... But I digress

All that aside; the work looks good. The gap around the ceiling will be a pain in the ass to finish nicely; IMO - but I get your thoughts on it being there (even if I don't agree...

Go have a beer. You've earned a day off...


robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1
reply to alkizmo

said by alkizmo:

Actually I figured it out now how to maintain less than 3/8" difference between all risers.

My last (bottom) riser is 6" off the floor, every other riser is 8". There are 11 risers in total.

By adding some thickness to certain treads, I can even out the riser height.

I start by adding 1.75" thickness to the bottom tread, then each tread up, I add the same thickness, minus 1/4"

That will work but don't forget to take into account the oak if you are still planning on finishing the stairs with oak treads. Much better than a landing at the bottom!


alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

said by Jack_in_VA:

Your pictures indicate you've done a very good job.

Thanks!

Though drywall can hide a lot of mistakes! But I'm more proud of what I did behind the drywall (oh insulation galore thanks to Maynard).

Now I'm looking at my walls with a 500W work light and I have NO CLUE what I should be looking for (aside from the little bits of mud that stick out).

said by LazMan:

Quebec makes it illegal for homeowners to do their own electrical (seriously, anything more then changing a bulb technically requires an electrician - they won't even inspect a homeowner's work); and frowns upon homeowners doing most other work.

All that aside; the work looks good. The gap around the ceiling will be a pain in the ass to finish nicely; IMO - but I get your thoughts on it being there (even if I don't agree...

Quebec is indeed pretty anal. Fortunately they don't really look into house renos like basements. I had great teachers here for electrical and wiring receptacles isn't exactly something easy to screw up.

As for the gaps in the ceiling/wall edges, well I guess you know about the resilient channels. I'll crownmold everything, I'm just not sure whether the molding should be attached to the wall OR the ceiling (can't be both).

said by robbin:

That will work but don't forget to take into account the oak if you are still planning on finishing the stairs with oak treads. Much better than a landing at the bottom!

Hence why I didn't want to do the landing even if it would have easily solved the issue of the last step. This morning I actually make an effort to measure and calculate if it was possible to balance out the risers and well, ya... Good thing I didn't start on the stairs yet.

I'm still not sure if I want to buy the tread caps or not. They would cost me almost 400$ (with taxes). I read about using laminate planks + nosings and it seems a lot cheaper. It's basically the same thing as using the caps.

telco_mtl

join:2012-01-06
reply to alkizmo

great looking work there, and when it comes to inspection, here in quebec like was said the strange structure is that even new construction isn't consistently inspected on the residential side. The uneven stair at the bottom would definitely be mentioned on an inspection report but I doubt it would be a deal killer. Ive need new construction with uneven stairs. some tract housing the basement stair stringers are made offsite and cut to length, with a bottom stair being off, sad but true. Alkizmo, I hate mudding and taping, when im done my powder room want to come sand it for me? give you a pack of twofour of your choice!



alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

said by telco_mtl:

im done my powder room want to come sand it for me? give you a pack of twofour of your choice!

Are you sure you want to get the guy sanding your walls drunk? With all the dust in the air from sanding, I'll need to drink a lot on site

Parneli

join:2004-12-28
Naperville, IL
reply to alkizmo

I thought you decided against the Roxul... no?



hm

@videotron.ca
reply to alkizmo

Another Question for you.

Ruxul.

Seems I can't put that (or any insulation) within 2 feet of electrical (ie the pot lights you have). Actually it sates no insulation within 2 feet of lights (or maybe it was electrical wiring, don't recall).

Did you do it anyhow? Or did you leave the wire run bare?

Is it over-anal to follow that?



LazMan
Premium
join:2003-03-26
canada

Modern wiring (romex/loomex/BX/conduit - really pretty much everything but K&T) is fine in insulation...

As for the pot lights - they come in two styles - IC, or "Insulation Contact" rated - those, you can insulate around and over, no problem - and Non-IC, those, you have to leave air space around, so heat can disapate...

Don't ever insulate around/over a non-rated can... They'll usually overheat quickly.



hm

@videotron.ca
reply to alkizmo

Did the city inspect that?

I know you are on the west island, so maybe there is a difference there (diff city)... But I somehow doubt it.

When my bro-in-law and I redid a basement apartment (south shore, St Hubert), we had to install over sized windows, per the inspector and new regs's. New reg stating they have to fit a fireman with a tank on his back to crawl in through.

I'm not in Montreal, just outside Ottawa, so I looked into this... and yup... I have the same windows as you and it's grandfathered. But If I ever did basement reno's then the new window size kicks in. Why not you?

Do you not have this reg there? Didn't know? Inspector said nothing? Not inspected yet?

Curious about this...



alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

There is no roxul in the ceiling, just a thin layer of fiberglass for a tiny bit of sound dampening with the minimum clearance around the pot lights.

said by hm :

When my bro-in-law and I redid a basement apartment

said by hm :

Do you not have this reg there? Didn't know? Inspector said nothing? Not inspected yet?

The key difference is "apartment". Basically there is/was a bedroom in your brother in law's basement. This requires a bigger window or an exit directly to outside from the basement.

My basement has no bedroom, thus nobody sleeping, thus nobody to go and save during a fire (unless you fell asleep drunk on the sofa in the basement).

telco_mtl

join:2012-01-06
reply to LazMan

said by LazMan:

Modern wiring (romex/loomex/BX/conduit - really pretty much everything but K&T) is fine in insulation...

As for the pot lights - they come in two styles - IC, or "Insulation Contact" rated - those, you can insulate around and over, no problem - and Non-IC, those, you have to leave air space around, so heat can disapate...

Don't ever insulate around/over a non-rated can... They'll usually overheat quickly.

and be very careful about the type you put into soffits outside (although if you use outdoor rated led its not as bad) they can cause major ice dam and roof damage

telco_mtl

join:2012-01-06
reply to hm

said by hm :

Did the city inspect that?

Its a sad reality in quebec because of the rules about what one can and can't do in their home that a lot of this stuff in done without permits. I have an entire room on the back of my house that I was curious about (its been there for AT LEAST 25 years) I went to the city to see if permits were ever pulled. all they have record of was a covered porch in the early 80s. Someone built walls around said porch and it became a room. It had electrical which I have since disconnected due to scariness. You would be surprised even some of the most reputable contractors in this area will do large renos sans permit. The worst part is the cities often turn a blind eye, the only time they come out it every 4 years for a property value revision, and the guys that do that aren't even city employees, they only care if you added value to the property.


XoX

join:2003-08-19
Qc, Canada
reply to alkizmo

So for your wall, you used the yellow rigid foam board + a layer of Roxul?

Did you add another vapor barrier or rely only on the one provided by the green plastic on the foam board?



alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

said by XoX:

So for your wall, you used the yellow rigid foam board + a layer of Roxul?

Did you add another vapor barrier or rely only on the one provided by the green plastic on the foam board?

Actually, I ripped off the plastic barrier sheet from the WHITE foam boards. They didn't have unfaced ones in store and I just needed a few more.

My vapor barrier is a 6mil poly sheet between the drywall and the roxul, extending down and tuck taped to my subfloor membrane, an extending up and folded into my rim/band joists before they were sealed with 2" of spray foam.


XoX

join:2003-08-19
Qc, Canada

said by alkizmo:

said by XoX:

So for your wall, you used the yellow rigid foam board + a layer of Roxul?

Did you add another vapor barrier or rely only on the one provided by the green plastic on the foam board?

Actually, I ripped off the plastic barrier sheet from the WHITE foam boards. They didn't have unfaced ones in store and I just needed a few more.

My vapor barrier is a 6mil poly sheet between the drywall and the roxul, extending down and tuck taped to my subfloor membrane, an extending up and folded into my rim/band joists before they were sealed with 2" of spray foam.

Are you not afraid of moisture being trapped between the rigid foam board and plastic sheet since the foam should also act has a vapor barrier?


alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

1 inch of eps is hardly a barrier. I think it is like 6 inches of that stuff needed to be a vapor barrier.



XoX

join:2003-08-19
Qc, Canada

said by alkizmo:

1 inch of eps is hardly a barrier. I think it is like 6 inches of that stuff needed to be a vapor barrier.

When i added insulation to my wall in the basement i used some isofoil from Isolofoam... the 2" board was cheaper than the rigid blue stuff but now i wonder if i can add more insulation in between the wall stud.


hm

@videotron.ca
reply to alkizmo

said by alkizmo:

My basement has no bedroom, thus nobody sleeping, thus nobody to go and save during a fire (unless you fell asleep drunk on the sofa in the basement).

Ah yes. That was it. The reg kicks in if there is a basement bedroom. ok thanks. Forgot about that.

BTW, good job. Now we all get to lay bets how the kids will put the first hole in the walls. I am calling it being with a mini-hockey stick and a GI Joe being bashed through the wall.