|reply to nyrrule27 |
Re: Water coming from pressure relief valve on hot water heater
Op if your booster is pressuring your system enough to partially trip the TP Valve then you have way too much pressure. Just my opinion your installation does not conform to what I've seen over the years for sprinkler booster pumps. The pump should only supply the sprinkler system with enough pressure to meet the requirement of the system i.e. 45 or 50 psi. Yours is supplying the entire house.
Temperature and Pressure (T&P) relief valves
Temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valves used on residential water heaters are typically designed and manufactured to relieve on pressure at 150 psig and on temperature at 210 degrees F. These ASME, ANSI and CSA (AGA) approved relief valves protect the water heater from excess pressures and temperatures by discharging water.
As you remember from the first of this tutorial (back when you were still awake), booster pumps are used to increase the water pressure. Therefore the required booster pump pressure is simply the desired pressure minus the existing pressure. Just remember that for most pump brands the pressure must be expressed in feet of head, not PSI!
PSI x 2.31 = feet head
Feet head x 0.433 = PSI
Example: The existing pressure in the water company mainline you will use to supply water for your sprinkler system is 35 PSI static. Static pressure means the water pressure when measured with all water flows shut off; no faucets running, ice maker is off, no sprinklers on, nobody taking a shower (don't turn off the water if someone is in the shower!!!), etc. To measure static water pressure just get a pressure gauge at the hardware store and attach it to a water outlet someplace reasonably close to the irrigation system. Make sure all other water outlets are turned off, then turn on the water to the gauge only. The gauge will show the static water pressure.
Where was I? Oh yeah, you have 35 PSI existing pressure. But let's say your irrigation system needs 50 PSI to operate correctly. So you decide to add a booster pump to create more pressure. The pressure increase needed is 50 - 35 = 15 PSI. So you need a booster pump that produces 15 PSI of pressure at whatever flow rate the irrigation system requires. But wait, for most pumps the pressure needs to be expressed in feet head, not PSI! So convert PSI to feet head. 15 PSI * 2.31 = 35 feet head (round the result up to the next whole number.) That wasn't difficult at all!
There are many companies that build and sell pre-packaged booster pump systems. These pump packages come with everything you need pre-assembled and ready to go. Typical assemblies include the pump, electrical controls, any needed control valves, a frame to hold everything and an enclosure to protect it. All you do is install it on a concrete pad, connect the pipes, and connect it to the power source. For most people this is the best way to buy a booster pump.
|reply to jack b |
said by jack b:Agree. Need to know more about your system.
A few pics might be in order!
If the pump is used solely for irrigation then the pressure tank is not needed, as the pump only runs when the irrigation system is on and is sized so it runs continuously.
If on the other hand the pump is used not only for irrigation then there should be some form of pressure tank, like a well. This maintains pressure when the pump is off. I'm not an expert but I would think without a pressure tank the pump would be constantly cycling on/off. Unless this is some type of special pump.
|reply to Jack_in_VA |
Jack, I think the point is that many booster pumps also have a check valve.
The check valve in conjunction with the thermal expansion of the heated water in the water heater is what causes the pressure rise.
The talented hawk speaks French.
My daughter has a booster pump that boosts her low 30 psi supplied by a neighborhood well system to 50 psi. It is essentially a pump and volume tank similar that one sees on a single residential well. The pump was sized by a local plumbing company that has expertise in the field. It will maintain 50 psi in the house when showering, water hose etc. If her demand changes the impeller in the pump can be changed out to accommodate it. I guess the small volume produced by thermal expansion is easily absorbed by the volume tank.