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alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

nail or screw in new treads?

I am getting ready to install the new treads for my basement.
I will lay them on top of the old treads (dont worry, step height remains within 3/8" max variance and the new risers cover the old treads' nosings.)

I read all sorts of pro/cons on either screw or nail

Screw: no squeaking in the future, but very hard to hide the countersink holes.
Nail: easy to hide, can squeak but construction glue can help.

If it is true that nails + glue can result in no squeaking like with screws, then i would go for that.


Coma
Thanks Steve
Premium
join:2001-12-30
NirvanaLand
kudos:1

Screw: no squeaking in the future, but very hard to hide the countersink holes.


I disagree that it is hard to hide countersunk screw holes because actually it's very easy if you have the right tools for the job. Which in your case would be a plug cutter, drill press, some Elmer's glue, hammer and chisel.

--
May is National amyotrophic lateral sclerosis Month

zach3
Zach
Premium
join:2000-05-04
Saint Louis, MO
reply to alkizmo
I personally like these:

Trim Head Square Drive Screws

»woodworking.rockler.com/hardware···h-Screws


sempergoofy
Premium
join:2001-07-06
Smyrna, GA
Reviews:
·AT&T Southeast
I think zach3's suggestion is a winner. I have been having some regular finish nails rising from their hole on one tread at a knee-wall in a 10-step set of stairs. Must be getting a slight bounce that is causing it. I've been reluctant to use screws because I did not want ot have to deal with the countersink. That screw looks like it will minimize the work.
--
nohup rm -fr /&


alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1
reply to zach3
said by Coma:


I disagree that it is hard to hide countersunk screw holes because actually it's very easy if you have the right tools for the job. Which in your case would be a plug cutter, drill press, some Elmer's glue, hammer and chisel.

I don't think you can use a plug cutter for making a 3/8" diameter hole. I can see it's use for big head bolts, but not for small head screws.

said by zach3:

I personally like these:

Trim Head Square Drive Screws

»woodworking.rockler.com/hardware···h-Screws

I'd fear that the head or the bit would strip for a long screw. I mean according to the website, these use #1 robertson, that's very tiny and fragile. I can predrill, but not too wide if I want grip.


jack b
Gone Fishing
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-08
Cape Cod
kudos:1
reply to alkizmo
I would glue (liquid nails, projects) and nail the treads (18ga. brads) especially if they are going to remain unfinished, other than stain and poly.

Guaranteed they won't go anywhere once you're done.
--
~Help Find a Cure for Cancer~
~Proud Member of Team Discovery ~


alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1
said by jack b:

I would glue (liquid nails, projects) and nail the treads (18ga. brads) especially if they are going to remain unfinished, other than stain and poly.

They are stained and finished.


Coma
Thanks Steve
Premium
join:2001-12-30
NirvanaLand
kudos:1
reply to alkizmo
said by alkizmo:

said by Coma:


I disagree that it is hard to hide countersunk screw holes because actually it's very easy if you have the right tools for the job. Which in your case would be a plug cutter, drill press, some Elmer's glue, hammer and chisel.

I don't think you can use a plug cutter for making a 3/8" diameter hole. I can see it's use for big head bolts, but not for small head screws.


n/m

It's obviously beyond your skill level/comprehension.



--
May is National amyotrophic lateral sclerosis Month

kherr
Premium
join:2000-09-04
Collinsville, IL
reply to alkizmo
Screw & glue

zach3
Zach
Premium
join:2000-05-04
Saint Louis, MO
reply to alkizmo
I'd fear that the head or the bit would strip for a long screw. I mean according to the website, these use #1 robertson, that's very tiny and fragile.

zach3
Zach
Premium
join:2000-05-04
Saint Louis, MO
reply to alkizmo
I'd fear that the head or the bit would strip for a long screw. I mean according to the website, these use #1 robertson, that's very tiny and fragile.

These screws are made of hardened steel and I have never broken one even in Oak. I was amazed at their holding power. Now as a few others have added you could also use a wood glue and then God help the person that need to ever take them apart down the road!!


Msradell
P.E.
Premium
join:2008-12-25
Louisville, KY
reply to Coma
said by Coma:

I disagree that it is hard to hide countersunk screw holes because actually it's very easy if you have the right tools for the job. Which in your case would be a plug cutter, drill press, some Elmer's glue, hammer and chisel.

I think from reading some of the other posts about this project, that the new treads are not going to be full thickness like a normal tread. If that's the case, there may not be enough depth to think the screws and leave enough room for plugs.


alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1
said by Coma:


n/m

It's obviously beyond your skill level/comprehension.



Maybe, anyhow I don't have a drill press

said by Msradell:

I think from reading some of the other posts about this project, that the new treads are not going to be full thickness like a normal tread. If that's the case, there may not be enough depth to think the screws and leave enough room for plugs.

That is where I was heading originally, with fake tread covers (or tread caps). But when I made my calculations to even our the steps, I realized I could go with a normal tread on top of the old treads and that the price was cheaper that way (tread caps + nosing = wtf$)


LazMan
Premium
join:2003-03-26
canada
reply to alkizmo
Construction adhesive... PL or similar, and 18ga brads to hold the treads in place until the adhesive sets up.

Brad heads are easy to fill/hide, and the adhesive will be stronger then the wood, once it cures.


alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1
said by jack b:

I would glue (liquid nails, projects) and nail the treads (18ga. brads) especially if they are going to remain unfinished, other than stain and poly.

Guaranteed they won't go anywhere once you're done.

said by LazMan:

Construction adhesive... PL or similar, and 18ga brads to hold the treads in place until the adhesive sets up.

Brad heads are easy to fill/hide, and the adhesive will be stronger then the wood, once it cures.

Makes two people with the exact same opinion.
I'm just surprised a 18gauge brad can penetrate 2 inches of hard wood.


StillLearn
Premium
join:2002-03-21
Streamwood, IL

1 edit
said by alkizmo:

Makes two people with the exact same opinion.
I'm just surprised a 18gauge brad can penetrate 2 inches of hard wood.

Nobody considered that you might be using a 2-inch thick stair tread or an inch thick hardwood stair tread.


LazMan
Premium
join:2003-03-26
canada
said by StillLearn:

said by alkizmo:

Makes two people with the exact same opinion.
I'm just surprised a 18gauge brad can penetrate 2 inches of hard wood.

Nobody considered that you might be using a 2-inch thick stair tread or a hardwood stair tread.

Hardwood shouldn't be an issue; but a 2" tread cap? That may be a problem...

How thick a material are you planning to use to build up the stairs?


alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1

2 edits
reply to alkizmo
I'm not using 2" thread caps. I'm laying new whole threads (1 1/8") over the old ones. If I want a good grip, I'm betting I'd need 2" brads.


aurgathor

join:2002-12-01
Lynnwood, WA
kudos:1
Reviews:
·Frontier Communi..

1 edit
reply to alkizmo
If there's a choice, I usually use screws.
a) much stronger holding force
b) it may sink into the wood, but unlike the nail, it won't start to come out.
--
Wacky Races 2012!

kherr
Premium
join:2000-09-04
Collinsville, IL
Reviews:
·Charter
reply to kherr
said by kherr:

Screw & glue

.... and scrape them on a bar of soap so they gliiiiiide right in .....


LazMan
Premium
join:2003-03-26
canada
reply to alkizmo
1 1/2" or 1 3/4" brads should be fine... The adhesive will hold them; the brads are just to keep them in places until the glue sets.

And my Franco friend; it's treads, not threads...

(It's ok, my francais isn't real good some days, either...


alkizmo

join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1
said by LazMan:

And my Franco friend; it's treads, not threads...

(It's ok, my francais isn't real good some days, either...

Oh CMON you KNOW it was an honest mistake and that I know that it is "tread"! Look at the thread title!

MaynardKrebs
Heave Steve, for the good of the country
Premium
join:2009-06-17
kudos:4
said by alkizmo:

said by LazMan:

And my Franco friend; it's treads, not threads...

(It's ok, my francais isn't real good some days, either...

Oh CMON you KNOW it was an honest mistake and that I know that it is "tread"! Look at the thread title!

I thought it was a "tread" title

Glue with brads
or
glue with screws and plugs in unstained oak to act as a contrast element (if you're feeling adventurous).