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Subaru
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join:2001-05-31
Greenwich, CT
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Infocus projector no power

I'm not sure if anyone has worked with them but I got one off ebay for a pretty good price because it wont power on, I will be picking it up tomorrow before I leave work.

From what I've seen (I can't find anything about this model) IN116 online but past Infocus models had blown caps or caps that just failed.. no schematics or anything like that. I assume the very lest it will have a transformer maybe the secondary side is the one that's not good?
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It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!




LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!


TheMG
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These things pretty much all have a SMPS. It's probably bad. Either that or the digital board is toast.



Subaru
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I wont know until I open it tomorrow I'm sure it should be easy to spot with the meter however I don't recall working on too many SMPS but from a few videos I assume most are pretty much the same.

I was looking at this video last night kinda what I will be dealing with but not sure if it's the same problem but given the issues with power supplies for the Infocus I can suspect it is.

»www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6DnRH6bWLg

--
It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!




LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!



Subaru
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reply to Subaru

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time to dig in.. lamp still looks good.


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main board
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Ballast
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power
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I was curious about two things...

Can I test the power supply out of the case? I don't see voltage over the fuse when plugged in.

the TO-220's well they are k20a60u & fsu10a60 and the bridge rectifier D10XB60

Also testing outside of the case as lt's grounded it should be ok just watch the fingers?

TheMG
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At the very least, you should be getting some kind of standby voltage from the power supply.

Although this looks like a fairly simple power supply, which is probably always-on.



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Yeah in standby the LED on the projector glows blue

I assume this marking means I should be getting 390V that goes to the ballast?

In the 2nd picture the transformer to the far right of the board I have 164VDC on the primary and nothing on the secondary.

On the one near the middle I have 164VDC in and 5V out.

Hmm that power IC with the metal for a back sure works with nothing on and just the power cable plugged in, got up to 111 F

the number on the chip is MR4010

»www.youtube.com/watch?v=98nqN-a1···youtu.be

TheMG
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1 recommendation

Now that I see this from a different angle... the first "transformer" (L101) is just an inductor for the PFC pre-regulator stage. The MOSFET and D102 on the large heatsink are also part of the PFC pre-regulator. The voltage across the main filter capacitor should read approx 390V, which is the voltage that will go to the lamp driver board as well as the main power supply.

I don't know what Q103 is doing without seeing the other side of the board, but there's possibility that it could be a switch for the 390V to get to CN101.

The MR4010 is the main controller/switcher for the low voltage power supply, whos output is on those multi-colored wires. The fact that it is getting quite warm is probably a good sign. You should be getting DC voltages on that connector with the multi-colored wires.



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hopefully this is a little better

btw getting low voltage on those wires but too low something like 0.9V

I have no voltage on the following capacitors assuming it should be DC by now..

C214
C215
C219
C218
C207
C206

pretty much on the whole side.

TheMG
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Try again with the power supply actually connected to the projector. Some power supplies will not operate if there isn't a minimum load on the output.

The fact that you were getting a standby LED on the projector, indicates that the power supply was producing power on at least one of its outputs.



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said by TheMG:

Try again with the power supply actually connected to the projector. Some power supplies will not operate if there isn't a minimum load on the output.

The fact that you were getting a standby LED on the projector, indicates that the power supply was producing power on at least one of its outputs.

I think you misunderstood, I was not getting any type of light indicator on the projector.

I just checked most of the major areas and wrote down the voltage on the picture.

let me know if something is wrong.
--
It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!




LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!


TheMG
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Well, two things are for sure, the PFC pre-regulator boost converter is not operating, and the MR4010 based SMPS is not operating either.

I don't know how this power supply was designed and can't tell from just following the traces on pictures, but it is possible that the PFC pre-regulator gets shut off to put the power supply in a low-power standby state.

So that part of it might be normal, or it might not.

By the looks of it, the opto-isolator IC204 is feedback for the SMPS, and IC203 is some sort of enable signal which turns on Q103, thereby allowing power to get to the lamp driver 390V output. However it looks like there's a related trace going toward the PFC stage circuitry, so it is possible that it serves a dual function and also enables/disables the PFC stage.

This is not without risk of screwing things up further, but one thing I'd be tempted to try would be to short the output pins (side without the dot on the case) of the IC203 opto-isolator, simulating an "enable" signal, and see if the PFC stage kicks into action (which would be evidenced by the voltage rising from 160V to its rated 390V). You should also see the presence of a high voltage at the connector for the lamp driver.

As you can tell it's kind of difficult without schematics or reverse-engineering the entire thing to really know what's going on.



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I did try the short and I still got nothing on the lamp output, I was talking with someone and the fact that it's still 164V at the large black cap he was saying the PFC may not be working right.

He is having the same feeling about a bad cap which is used to switch the whole circuit on, however I have no ESR meter so testing will be a little time consuming.



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downloadslva085.pdf 72,888 bytes
This is a good read it's a Texas instruments SMPS failure mode

TheMG
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What voltage do you get between pins 8 (Vcc) and 6 (gnd) of the PFC controller?

It should be around 12V according to the datasheet.

»documentation.renesas.com/doc/pr···113a.pdf



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Forgive me but which one is the PFC?

You must be IC101 on the back of the board?

TheMG
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That would be the one.



Subaru
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is your pdf a direct match for it? It seems like the little dot is not really in a place for pin 1.


TheMG
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1 edit

It's the closest thing I could find. It is common on small parts like this for the manufacturer not to put the full part number on it, due to lack of space.

Anyways, there should be a DC supply voltage on one of those pins, for the controller to work. Usually this is provided by a zener diode.

Edit: ok, the trace from pin 8 goes down to ZD204, which is a zener diode. So it seems logical that pin 8 is in fact the Vcc as the data sheet would suggest.



Subaru
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Well I'm not getting anything on 6 & 8 and and the closest diode is D103 and I'm not getting anything from that area as well.


TheMG
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The trace from pin 8 Vcc appears to go near ZD204. That's a zener diode. I suspect this is where that supply voltage is supposed to be coming from.

Hard to tell from the pictures what exactly is going on in that area, with ZD204, Q204, and Q213.

Anyways, start probing around that area. Check for shorted diodes or transistors, test voltages, etc. I suspect there may be a bad zener, or something else is loading it down. I've seen this type of failure in SMPS before.



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Q213 when I touch the two pins closest to each other I get continuity on the other hand for Q204 I get nothing, For ZD204 I get nothing, however in diode test it shows voltage one way.



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I'm not sure how to read ZD204 I'm not used to a 3 pin one.. but what has me confused is Q602 that long trace that's near ZD204 goes down to R219 & C118

I'm very temped still to replace all the caps who knows if the ESR has drifted, it's only like $7 for all of them

»www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfH1EHne···youtu.be


Subaru
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Just ordered all new Panasonic caps from Digikey

CAP ALUM 47UF 25V 20% RADIAL
CAP ALUM 10UF 50V 20% RADIAL
CAP ALUM 47UF 35V 20% RADIAL
CAP ALUM 22UF 50V 20% RADIAL
CAP ALUM 1000UF 25V 20% RADIAL (2)
CAP ALUM 150UF 450V 20% SNAP
--
It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!




LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!



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I'm probing around here checking some diodes and I found one here D106A in diode test it reads 0V both ways.. on the backside of it is a white 0.025 Ceramic resistor.

*Edit

Looks to be just a shunt for protection.

The optoisolator are FOD817BW I get reading on one side but nothing on the other side.. and On the other one I get no reading at all.

Ic204 I get 2.8V on pins 3 & 4


Subaru
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So I think something is wrong with the MR4010.. Between pins 5 & 9 I see 33.44K

I was told the gate might be stuck, not sure how common this is but it's worth a shot to try a replacement, but that's going to take awhile so I might as well buy spares.

»www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SMCCMS2···ad_owner

TheMG
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Unfortunately I'm not sure how much further help I can provide with this one, without access to schematics.

If I physically had the power supply board in front of me I could probably figure it out, but doing this from pictures is very very difficult.



Subaru
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said by TheMG:

Unfortunately I'm not sure how much further help I can provide with this one, without access to schematics.

If I physically had the power supply board in front of me I could probably figure it out, but doing this from pictures is very very difficult.

It's OK I ordered two new MR4010's from China I think the one of the board is shorted or the gate is stuck open, between the gate and source I'm seeing some resistance, that IC201 seems to be the key to having power on that side of the board, and seeing how when plugged in for 3 min and it gets that hot something can't be right.

Maybe some transient voltage or a dirty AC line wrecked the IC204
--
It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!




LG is NOT Lifes Good It's Lucky Goldstar!



Subaru
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I think my Digikey shipment might of got lost in the mail?

I picked Digikey for the sole purpose it only takes 3 days.. Now I'm thinking about doing another order...

»tools.usps.com/go/TrackConfirmAc···03395631



Subaru
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Looks like I'm going to have 2 of everything on the caps.. if anyone wants one feel free... All Panasonic caps.