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bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA

How to wire my New Heat Pump to old Air Handler and Tstat

I have an older Rheem REEC 9024 SAS Air Handler/Furnace that I'm trying to wire correctly to my recently purchased 13PJA24A01757 Rheem Heat Pump and pre-existing RiteTemp 8050C thermostat.

I'm not quite sure how to wire it correctly...typical wiring convention wasn't followed, so I want to redo everything correctly; The system doesn't seem to be working properly the way it is wired right now.

This is the wiring diagram that I found on the Air Handler:




This is the installation guide to the 8050C thermostat: »www.ritetemp-thermostats.com/80X···uide.pdf

And this is the wiring diagram I have from the Heat Pump installation guide:



I was thinking about wiring it like this, but I don't want to mess anything up:



Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Tex
Premium
join:2012-10-20
kudos:2
I'm not seeing anything wrong with your wiring diagram. The only thing I would pay attention to are the O and B terminals on the thermostat. "O" (reversing valve) is energized on a call for cooling. "B" (reversing valve) is energized on a call for heating. Most heat pumps today, the reversing valve is energized on a call for cooling. Also, if you haven't already done so, make sure the "Normal/Heat Pump" switch on the thermostat is set to Heat Pump.


mackey
Premium
join:2007-08-20
kudos:12
reply to bouchigo
Yup, you're pretty close. "C" also needs to go through the air handler as that's where the transformer is (R and C are the 2 transformer wires). "Y" does not need to go through the air handler.

Just a minor correction on your legend, "Y" is actually First Stage Compressor run; Cool vs. Heat is determined by "B" (or "O" on other units).

/M

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA

1 edit
said by Tex:

I'm not seeing anything wrong with your wiring diagram. The only thing I would pay attention to are the O and B terminals on the thermostat. "O" (reversing valve) is energized on a call for cooling. "B" (reversing valve) is energized on a call for heating. Most heat pumps today, the reversing valve is energized on a call for cooling. Also, if you haven't already done so, make sure the "Normal/Heat Pump" switch on the thermostat is set to Heat Pump.

EDIT (7/10/13): A few days back I read the notes for the wiring diagram for this particular Heat Pump, and it should be connected to "B", and not "O", as the reverse valve is energized on call for heat, not cooling.

said by mackey:

Yup, you're pretty close. "C" also needs to go through the air handler as that's where the transformer is (R and C are the 2 transformer wires). "Y" does not need to go through the air handler.

Just a minor correction on your legend, "Y" is actually First Stage Compressor run; Cool vs. Heat is determined by "B" (or "O" on other units).

/M

Thanks for the correction on the "Y" description.

So, you're saying that I would connect "C" to the transformer wire where Brown and Yellow meet? And I don't need to connect anything to "Y" at the Air Handler?


mackey
Premium
join:2007-08-20
kudos:12
said by bouchigo:

So, you're saying that I would connect "C" to the transformer wire where Brown and Yellow meet? And I don't need to connect anything to "Y" at the Air Handler?

Yes and yes.

However, I just checked the manual for your new thermostat and according to page 17, the "W1" terminal in the air handler should actually go to "W2" on the 'stat and the 'stat "W" and "Y" terminals should be tied together to your "Y" wire.

/M


Tex
Premium
join:2012-10-20
kudos:2
reply to bouchigo
You don't want to wire Y-W2-W1. Doing that, on a call for cooling, you're going to energize W1 (electric heat) at the air handler. Great for humidity control, but not very good for cooling the home. On a call for the heat pump, same thing. You will energize the electric heat. At the thermostat, put a jumper wire between Y and W. See page 17 in your thermostat manual. Also, make sure, on the thermostat, there is a jumper wire between Rc and Rh.


Tex
Premium
join:2012-10-20
kudos:2
reply to bouchigo
That'll work.

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA
Cool, thanks.

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA
Just a side question that I've been meaning to ask, but this wiring diagram is telling me that there is no 24V transformer at the Heat Pump, and that everything is being run off of the 24V transformer on the Air Handler, right? At least I would think it would show the transformer in this diagram if there was one...



mackey
Premium
join:2007-08-20
kudos:12
said by bouchigo:

Just a side question that I've been meaning to ask, but this wiring diagram is telling me that there is no 24V transformer at the Heat Pump, and that everything is being run off of the 24V transformer on the Air Handler, right?

Yup!

/M

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA

2 edits
I've got it all wired up now, but the Heat Pump fan isn't spinning.

Any suggestions?

Note:
I should add that I had to replace the transformer because the Primary was open; the secondary was fine (reading about 1.2 ohms). It turns out the Yellow wire shorted to the Heat Pump chassis. I didn't do the wiring, I had an installer install it a few weeks ago, and I didn't really like the way he handled things, that's why I decided to do the wiring myself.

Anyway, now that the new transformer is installed, the Air Handler blower is turning on fine, but, as I mentioned, the Heat Pump fan isn't coming on.

I'm wondering if the Heat Pump circuit board got fried...

EDIT:
Nevermind, I figured it out. The blue and brown wires were hard to tell apart, so I mixed them up. After I flashed light on them at a certain angle I was able to tell them apart and connect them properly.


mackey
Premium
join:2007-08-20
kudos:12
Edit: nvm, problem solved while I was writing this

/M

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA

2 edits
I woke up this morning and the heat pump fan was still on, but the blower in the air handler was off.

It was doing this initially when the installer first installed it, that's one of the reasons I wanted to rewire everything.

I know when the installer installed it, it took him quite a few hours to figure out how to wire it because he was struggling to find what wire was what because conventional color code wasn't followed to begin with.

In that process I could hear the contactor engaging and disengaging quite a bit...could it be that the contactor was damaged somehow? I ask because it seems like the contactor is not disengaging, causing the heat pump to keep running, and the fan to stay on.

Before, when the heat pump fan would stay on, I would have to turn the switch to cool (starting from the off position), then back to off, and the heat pump fan would stop spinning.

I tried the same trick this morning, but the heat pump fan wasn't shutting off, so I just turned off the power going to the heat pump because I had to go to work and I didn't want to leave the fan running all day.

Also, it doesn't do this all the time; last night it was working fine, it will just do it randomly throughout the day...could it be the fan relay at the heat pump? Or the thermostat?


mackey
Premium
join:2007-08-20
kudos:12
Quick test: while it's doing this, pop the thermostat off the wall. If it stays running the problem is in the heat pump. If it shuts off immediately then the problem is probably the t-stat.

/M

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA

1 edit
I'll try that.

I was thinking of just cutting the power to the air handler if it did it again, at least to eliminate the air handler, but now I also know how to test the Tstat.

Thanks

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA
It did it again a few minutes ago.

It reached the set temp. and the fan on the heat pump was still running.

What I did was:

1) Turned off the power to the air handler and the fan on the HP was still spinning.

2) Turned the power back on and removed the Tstat, and the fan was still spinning.

3) I went to the HP and checked the status light, and it was solid red like it should be, not blinking out error codes.

4) I took the other end of my screwdriver and lightly banged the contactor. I heard the contactor release and the HP fan stopped spinning.

This means the contactor isn't working properly, right?


mackey
Premium
join:2007-08-20
kudos:12
Yup, contactor's sticking. A new one should be less then $50 (most likely around $25) at any heating or electrical supply house.

/M

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA

1 edit
Cool, thanks for all the help and quick replies mackey, I really appreciate it.

This thing is brand new, and the contactor should be covered under warranty.

I'm having the A/C guy that installed it cover it under warranty.

EDIT:
Contactor replaced earlier this evening. Now I just have to monitor to see if it works correctly for the next few days.

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA

1 edit
reply to mackey
said by mackey:

Yes and yes.

However, I just checked the manual for your new thermostat and according to page 17, the "W1" terminal in the air handler should actually go to "W2" on the 'stat and the 'stat "W" and "Y" terminals should be tied together to your "Y" wire.

/M

So I did a new diagram; I moved things around to keep any lines from crossing, but I think this should do it...




EDIT (7/10/13):
The "O" in the diagram should be replaced with "B" since it energizes the reverse valve on call for heat, not cooling.

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA

2 edits
reply to Tex
Ok, I think I mis-read mackey's post.

So, all else being the same, I'm wiring W1 from the air handler to the W2 of the 'tstat, and jumpering W and Y on the 'tstat.

I already knew to jumper RC and RH, just wasn't too sure about the other part.

Like this:




Thanks

EDIT (7/10/13):
The "O" in the diagram should be replaced with "B" since it energizes the reverse valve on call for heat, not cooling.


Tex
Premium
join:2012-10-20
kudos:2
reply to bouchigo
Yeah, I completely forgot about Rheem/Ruud. They are still the only manufacturer that energizes the reversing valve on a call for heat. Sorry about that.

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA
No worries Tex; I had figured it out a few days ago, I just forgot to update the diagram.

I wanted to clear it up in case someone with a similar problem comes along and reads this thread.

bouchigo

join:2013-07-05
Stockton, CA
Just wanted to chime and say that after monitoring my Heat Pump fan for the last 4 days or so, it has been working as it should (shutting off as it should) ever since the contactor was replaced; so, it was the contactor after all.