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evo7
join:2009-01-03
Audubon, NJ

evo7

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AMD FX 8320 temperature problem

I just built a new PC with a AMD FX 8320 CPU and a MSI 970A-G46 mobo, I have 3 fans in the case ATM 2 pulling cold air in and 1 pulling it out (will be upgrading to 200mm fans shortly) but this CPU idles at 53 C with the stock cooler, last night I took off the heatsink, cleaned the thermal paste off of it and the CPU and reapplied, (the first time I applied it I used the spread method with the supplied card, second time I just put a pea size dot in the middle of the CPU die and put the heatsink on and clamped it down) this had absolutely no change in the temperatures.

The interim GPU (9800GT, awaiting the arrival of a GTX 580) is idling at about 42-43 C which is what it idled at in my old system) .......I need some help sorting this out lol. I've seen instances in which peoples stock coolers have worked very well. So there has to be something I am not getting here. Need some help.

BonezX
Basement Dweller
Premium Member
join:2004-04-13
Canada

2 edits

BonezX

Premium Member

what case are you using would be helpful.

also they are known to be a little on the warm side.

digging around someone on another page mentioned mis-calibrated temp sensors on MSI boards, so updating bios is an option.
Thordrune
Premium Member
join:2005-08-03
Lakeport, CA

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Identical thread here: »AMF FX 8320 temperature problem..
evo7
join:2009-01-03
Audubon, NJ

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Well since the thread in the other forum was 0 help, I'll post here.

The case I am using is a Cooler Master HAF 912. And I updated the BIOS to the latest version.

Krisnatharok
PC Builder, Gamer
Premium Member
join:2009-02-11
Earth Orbit

Krisnatharok

Premium Member

I am not very familiar with the FX series CPUs and what they should be averaging, but it looks warm. Generally speaking, stock coolers suck.

What size are your case fans (and where on the case did you put them?), and are they spinning at a constant RPM or do they vary? What is the ambient temperature of the room?

Have you tried benching the CPU to set to the TIM? How high did the temps go?

Get back to us with the requested information and we might be able to help.

Gordo74
Premium Member
join:2003-10-28
Pittsburgh, PA

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That is a normal temperature for your GPU, but your CPU is a bit high.
Thordrune
Premium Member
join:2005-08-03
Lakeport, CA

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Check the other thread, there's a good suggestion in there about bad default voltages. I've had similar things happen with some Asus boards when overclocking and voltages set to auto.

Mashiki
Balking The Enemy's Plans
join:2002-02-04
Woodstock, ON

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Well the stock coolers are okay, some people find them to be complete crap. With most, you'll easily see 7-15C differences in what you'd expect from a good cooler.

I have the exact same mobo, but have a FX6300, and the original 970A-G46's bios for the FX series did have a bug relating to temperature. That's been fixed since 1.11, and was further fixed in the 2.0 release. I use a Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus and see 32-40C at light load, and 46-51C at full load(the room where I use my PC is small and not the greatest and usually a bit on the warm side). With a single pusher fan, and a ArcticF12 Pro PWM tied to the Evo fan on PWM. The case I'm using is a few years old, elite 430. And if you're looking at a good after market cooler the 212 plus can be found for as little as $18 after the instant rebate, or the evo for $30ish.

Raible
join:2008-01-23
Plainfield, IN

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I think "stock coolers suck" pretty well sums up your problem.

I have an AMD 965BE and ran those kind of temps. Refused to believe for the longest time that the stock HSF would be that poor in performance. Went and bought a Noctua and now I cruise around 35.

Will never use stock HSF ever again.

Jobbie
Keep It Simple
Premium Member
join:2010-08-24
Mexico

Jobbie

Premium Member

said by Raible:

Will never use stock HSF ever again.

This is key, not only the HSF itself sucks but the thermal paste applied to it is terrible.

Woody79_00
I run Linux am I still a PC?
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join:2004-07-08
united state

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I have the same exact case and same CPU and with the Stock Cooler the 8320 never goes past 55C even under full Prime95 Load for 4 hours...the Stock Cooler that comes with the CPU is more then enough as long as your not overclocking the chip.

For the HAF 912 the optimal fan layout is:

2 Intake Fans on Front and on Side (4 if using 120mm)

2 Exhaust Fans on Top and Back. (4 if using 120mm)

Personally you should have 2 filtered Intakes and 2 unfiltered exhaust....this will create a vortex in your case and offer better cooling....

Your case should have a "slight" negative pressure. What i mean is the total CFM of your exhausts should be "slightly higher" then your intakes....it will offer better cooling..you may get slightly more dust and have to clean it, but it will overall run cooler.

I have the same set up with 2 120 MM intakes(filtered), 2 120 MM exhausts I also have 2 HD 7850's in Crossfire inside the case as well. Both cards never reach higher then 68C under full load (cards are safe up to 80c)

Set two fans to exhaust (Top mount and Rear Mount), and Set two fans to intake (Front and Side) Power Supply Fan should be facing down sucking air in from filtered intake on bottom of case)

If you do this, and your temps are still showing that high, I would say you just have a faulty temp sensor. If it idles at 53c then shut the system off open it up real fast, and touch the CPU chip/heatsink with your hand and see if it feels that hot...if it doesn;t then its a faulty temp sensor.

As long as your not exceeding 60c on an 8 core FX CPU, and your not tripping your PWM Processor Hot you should be fine.

Also, if you have the options in your BIOS, Powernow/Cool and Quiet Should be turned on, C1E (Enhanced Halt State) should be turned on, and Windows Power Settings should be set to Balanced mode.

follow those instructions and then report back your temp.

Krisnatharok
PC Builder, Gamer
Premium Member
join:2009-02-11
Earth Orbit

Krisnatharok

Premium Member

I disagree about a negative pressure fan setup being better, unless you have a good air cleaner running 24x7 right next to the case.

With negative pressure, you create a minor vacuum, and you know air--like water--takes the path of least resistance. If the vacuum exists, you will see air pulled in through every tiny crack or opening in the case, rendering your intake air filters less effective.

With positive pressure, you create a slight over-pressure in the case, so air tends to bleed out through every crack or crevice. If all your intake fans are filtered, you can significantly cut down on the amount of dust you would see vs. a negative pressure setup.

Keep in mind that whether you ultimately go with a negative (with ample air cleaning nearby) or positive pressure system, the offset should only be 10-15% difference in terms of intake vs. exhaust (calculated via CFM).

I think air flow is ultimately more important, can play a bigger role in temp reduction. Only use intake fans on the front/bottom/side and have exhaust on the top/rear (heat rises).
Thordrune
Premium Member
join:2005-08-03
Lakeport, CA

Thordrune

Premium Member

Seconded. I have my HTPC's case set up for positive air pressure, and it's nearly dust-free inside after a year and half of use. Every few months I clean out the fan filters and it's good to go. It also provides plenty of airflow for the fanless PSU.
evo7
join:2009-01-03
Audubon, NJ

evo7

Member

I ditched the stock HSF and got a Antec 620 water cooler on clearance at BB for 42 bucks. I figured you can't beat it. 50C under full load for an hour in Prime95 and it's much much much quiter than the stock HSF.

MY fan set up in my HAF 912 has been revised but I think I may have to revise it again because of the push/pull config I have going on with the CPU water cooler.

Front: 200mm CM megaflow intake.
side: Is the Antec CPU cooler with 2x120mm CM sickles in push/pull config, intake.
top: 200MM CM megaflow exhaust.
rear: 120mm CM sickle exhaust.

Now I couldn't fit my CPU cooler in the rear slot period with the 200mm fan on the top, I already tried. I would have to remove the 200mm fan and put 1 120mm exhaust in the top to fit my CPU cooler in the rear fan slot....ugh. I think with the current way this is configured it is driving up my GPU temps as the CPU cooler is blowing directly on my GPU as it is like 5mm away from touching it. I think I need a bigger case with more options.

Woody79_00
I run Linux am I still a PC?
Premium Member
join:2004-07-08
united state

Woody79_00

Premium Member

I just wanted to ask, are you Overclocking your 8320? If not, i just wonder about the water cooler purchase, because if not Overclocking the stock cooler and paste is more then adequate to keep your temps in check.

You say its hitting 53c idle, is that 53c on the core or 53c on the socket? because there is a difference.

The CPU socket Temp, which is almost always higher, is safe up to 70c...if it goes over 70c the system will shut off before any damage happens to the chip.

the Core temp on the 8320 is safe up to 61c

With the stock cooler under Prime95 my Socket temp hits 62c, but thats well below the safe zone of 70c

My Socket temp never exceeds 55c which is well below the safe zone of 61c

Did you actually measure the temps on the CPU and Socket? Like say, with one of these

»www.homedepot.com/p/Gene ··· SCneYfj4

they are accurate + or - 3 degrees.....Did you open the case while its running and point the laser at the spots on the board and check it?

HWmonitor and other tools are known to be buggy....with all the different boards out ther..it would be impossible to have 100% accuracy on every board. Furthermore, you could have a faulty temp sensor somewhere, or Hwmonitor is not reading the sensor right, or something else is out of whack.

If your system was idling at 53c, you would have felt hot air being expunged from the case...not cool or slightly warm air, but hot air....did you actually feel "hot air" being expunged from the case?

My motherboard has a faulty Northbridge temp sensor...it reports 70c in Hwmonitor...but actually measuring its temps with a temp gun reveals its gets no where near that hot.

Please understand, I am not trying to come across in any condescending manner, I just wanted this post as a way we all learn together. I know in my younger days i replaced a lot of parts thinking they were faulty, when they really were not, but bad temp readings, faulty sensors, etc. Get one of those laser temp readers, and test your temps...you may be able to send that water cooler back and save your money if your not OC...at least you will know if Hqmonitor, etc are reporting the true temps back to you.

Best of luck bud!
evo7
join:2009-01-03
Audubon, NJ

evo7

Member

I bought the water cooler because idling @ 53C was with the stock HSF and cooler master paste @ nearly 100% fan speed and it was unbelievably loud, the water cooler was only 42 dollars on clearance vs 70 brand new and is 100 times quieter. No I am not overclocking the CPU, but in the near future I may overclock it slightly.

I was taking the temps from my mobo BIOS for reference. AMD Overdrive and Coretemp were reading temps BELOW ambient air temp at full load which were clearly wrong.

Woody79_00
I run Linux am I still a PC?
Premium Member
join:2004-07-08
united state

Woody79_00

Premium Member

Ok I was just curious. If you do plan to OC, then that Water Cooler will surely help that.

Strange it would idle that hot, but at least you got it sorted out. I hope it continues to work well now!
Woody79_00

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Oh before I forget!, just a few more things I wanted to add.

1. You said you were reading the temps from the BIOS? the CPU temp reading in the BIOS is the Socket Temp NOT the core temp. Socket Temps are safe up to 70c.

2. AMD FX Processor's have "faulty" core temp readings when the system is idle which explains the wrong temp readings in Coretemp and OD when the system was idle.

Coretemp or HWMonitor should show the correct Core Temp when stressing the CPU with Prime 95....HwMonitor calls the Core temp "Package" and its under the CPU name. CoreTemp just shows the same reading as package from HwMonitor....Socket Temp is usually labeled TMPIN01, TMPIN02, or TMP in HwMonitor depending on your board....

You only need to worry about Socket Temp when it exceeds 70c...and you will know when it does because the system will just go "poof" and power off like someone just jerked the power cable out of it.

As for Core Temp, AMD has the FX Processors set up in a unique way....when stressing them in Prime95, use CPU-Z to watch the Multiplier and speed....when the system has thermal room, it will hit 4000mhz no problem and then fluctuate between 4000mhz and 3700mhz(Turbo Core States). When the Cores approach 59-60c it will begin to throttle itself back....in fact it could throttle back all the way to the 2300mz or even 1700mhz it will also drop voltage considerably while still being pegged at 100%...this is the thermal protection built into these chips. If you were not hitting the thermal wall and seeing the chip throttle itself under load, then you were probably operating within spec.

I don't blame you for opting for a quieter cooler though, the stock fan can get loud, and that water cooler will give you a good bit of overclocking room in the future as long as your board can handle it.

One last note: I would NOT recommend overclocking on that board. Even with that Water Cooler. That board only has a 4 +1 Phase design...in fact running an FX 8 core on that with stock is really pushing it....OC and raising voltages on that board you run a very good chance of frying it. It you was running the 6300 (six core, 95w CPU) MAYBE just MAYBE You would probably have a little bit of room(I wouldn't risk it unless i didn't care about the motherboard), but not with the 125w 8320. You need at least a decent 6 + 2 Phase design to OC one of those and I wouldn't OC on anything less then that...the 6 + 2 means it will be easier to control voltage fluctuations, less Vdroop, etc 6 + 2 boards usually have much better VRM cooling as well. two boards like listed below would be good options to OC a 125w FX CPU

»www.asus.com/Motherboard ··· EVO_R20/

»www.newegg.com/Product/P ··· 13128519

If you do decide to OC on that board...please do be careful....you really should have at least a 6 + 2 Phase for OC just to be safe. According to this thread over at Overclock3d.net that board in particular suffers from a large amounts of Vdroop when messing with the voltages, and the author states even running a 8320 in it at stock is pushing it...recommends the FX 6300 (95w CPU)

»forum.overclock3d.net/sh ··· ?t=52135

Just be careful if you decide to OC on that board. If your planning to OC save up and buy 1 of the two boards I listed, or 1 that has at least a 6+ 2.

Apologize for the long post, but I thought the information was important. Take care!
evo7
join:2009-01-03
Audubon, NJ

evo7

Member

Oh I knew all of that, which is the reason it's not already overclocked.

Atleast I got the Version 2.0 of the board which has pretty robust looking VRM heatsinks which people were burning up on the V1 and V1.2 boards.

Woody79_00
I run Linux am I still a PC?
Premium Member
join:2004-07-08
united state

Woody79_00

Premium Member

Oh alright, well im glad your informed.

Also to note, these FX 8320, by default run at way to high of voltages...I think most motherboards auto them 1.4125 which IMO is kinda of high.

Mine has been running on auto for a month as a "burn in period". I think this evening I am going to undervolt my FX 8320 while keeping stock clocks.

I bet these 8320 will run stock 3.5ghz on 1.225 whihc would be a vast improvement over the 1.4125 at stock set by most motherboard...i'll let you know the results!
Woody79_00

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Hi evo7!

I posted the 1st part of my 8320 undervolt experiment on this thread

»The FX 8320....my journey into under-volting an 8 core..

I thought it may be some useful information to play around with!