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[Masonry] Pouring concrete steps

[Masonry] Re: Pouring concrete steps

How much concrete work have you done before?
You want to use an edging tool on the steps to round the steps front edge, and you should use a broom or similar tool to make the steps no slip on the upper surface.
You can apply a sand/cement mix to make the sides more attractive after the forms are removed.

If you take the form on the side off after 1 hour the bottom is likely to slump out. I'm not going to tell you how long you need to wait to take the side off, mainly because there isn't one correct answer. It depends on how wet the concrete is, air temp, humidity, etc...

One thing you can do that will help the finish look is run a palm sander all over the outside of the forms as soon as the concrete is all in. It's a poor man version of a concrete vibrator. Don't overdo it though, you should do the entire outside of the forms in 60-90 seconds max.

Different formulations of concrete will have different setting times. The correct answer is check for hardness in an inconspicuous place.

You're overestimating the rapidity with which concrete sets. It's not like one second it is fluid and the next second hardened. It's also dependent on the temperature, so cooler days give you more time to finish. When you're pouring, fill a small container like a cardboard box so you can press on the concrete to check on how it is setting without disturbing the main pour.

Concrete curing is a chemical process, not one where the concrete 'dries out". The entire mass will cure at the same rate. The exception is the immediate surface, which can lose water to evaporation on hot, sunny days.

Are you getting ready-mix or mixing on-site? The amount of water is critical and should be measured carefully, especially if you are on-site mixing.

Use a nail. Don't remove the forms if the nail goes in by hand.
Having done a similar project myself, the time needed was about 8-10hrs.
»Pouring concrete steps - DIY

Are you planning to do a single pour for porch and steps?

If yes, will your form have horizontal boards above the step surfaces to contain the concrete?

You should video the pour, and we hope it does not become a Youtube hit.

Post a photo now.

Sure I'll take a picture when I get home tonight.

If you do have the palm sander for vibrating you can always just get some discs to smooth out any imperfections after you take the side form off

Like these or what ever size you need:
»www.toolocity.com/4-sase-vacuum-···rit.aspx

Interesting. Thanks for that.

Are you using a gas powered mixer or electric?

He indicated electric.
»[Masonry] Re: Pouring concrete steps
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I don't do concrete work myself but I do reside in Wisconsin and design landscapes & hardscapes for a living. A few thoughts to consider (using imperial units, sorry I don't have good metric conversions at hand):

A) This is a lot of stair mass to support without a footing. Typically we show a footing down to frost, either CMU or cast-in-place. On top of the footing we then cast the stairs. Here you'll have a monolithic stair pour that's going to be subject to whatever shifting may occur in the sub-base. You're clearly past that point now but it would be fair to assume some future movement of the stairs.

B) Are you going to pour the entire void space beneath the stairs as well? I ask because that's a lot of cubic area to fill with concrete. You could consider building some sacrificial formwork inside of the stairs and then filling the rest of the void space with some kind of angular stone. As long as you maintain min. 6-8" concrete thickness in the narrowest points, you'll have all the strength without the unnecessary volume.

C) Rebar is a good idea. Tying into the house foundation will help prevent long-term leaning or slumping, especially with no foundation. Then we typically call for small #3 (3/8" dia.) bars in at the noses of the steps, set at least 2" from the exposes surfaces. We also show #4 bars (1/2" inch dia.) @ 12" o.c., running diagonal (parallel to the riser-tread intersections), again at least 2" from the exposed surface.

Good luck, hope all goes well!
TOM

/edited for clarity

I realize it's kind of late but did you consider precast steps? May not be available in your area and/or cost prohibitive but a hell of lot easier.
I hated steps. I would have rather hand troweled an entire two car garage by myself rather than form pour and finish steps (I did concrete work for a living 30+ years ago).
But I was lazy.
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I thought about it, though I wouldn't say I "considered" it

I know this is much more work. I just wanted something that looked good. I'd hate to finish a project and go "ugh" every time I pull into my driveway.

The good news is once it's done if the finish isn't as good as you want you can skim coat it with more concrete or paint it.

If I needed to do that type of project I might consider adding some copper tubing or a heating cable close to the top of each step for heating (snow removal). Next time we redo our driveway I'm having that put into the driveway so all I do is turn it on and I don't have to shovel anything.

I'd hate to see your power bill $$$ after that!!