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Mango
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3 edits
reply to guessing

Re: [Electrical] Overloaded neutral / building wiring fault

Thanks for this - along with StillLearn's picture above I finally understand this concept.

1) No, both are black. The only red wires are one from the supply and one to my clothes dryer.
2) Different cables, each with its own neutral.
3) Complete opposite ends of the right side of the panel.

I think the answer to SparkChaser's question is yes, #1 is on one side of the 220 and #2 is on the other side. The neutral is not shared.


Mango
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2 edits

I just discovered this:

Circuit #2 has no ground to the panel, but does have a ground wire at some of the boxes. The ground for #2 is connected to #1 at a box that contains switches for lights on both circuits. There is also a ground wire running from one of the lights on #2 to a receptacle on #1.

said by shdesigns:

Ground is floating and gets crosstalk from a circuit on the opposite hot line. So, Hot to Ground is more than the Hot to Neutral.

 
Can I solve the problem by placing both circuits on the same side?


shdesigns
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said by Mango:

Can I solve the problem by placing both circuits on the same side?

Fix the problem of the missing grounds. That is the cause of your weird voltages.

Mango
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Unfortunately I don't have a good way of doing that, without taking out walls.



tschmidt
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2 edits

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reply to Mango

said by Mango:

Can I solve the problem by placing both circuits on the same side?

No, there is nothing wrong with hot and neutral - you are missing safety ground.

Ground needs to make its way back to the neutral buss bar in the main panel. The purpose is if there is a fault enough current will flow to trip the breaker rather than electrocute the victim.

You need to figure out how to get the circuit with the missing ground connection grounded.

I don't want to sound harsh but it appears you are not familiar with wiring standards and you are dealing with safety issues. You should seriously think about calling in a electrician to correct these issues.

/tom
fixed typos


StillLearn
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reply to Mango

said by Mango:


Can I solve the problem by placing both circuits on the same side?

No! That would be the wrong way. That would overload the neutral wire. The shared neutral method relies on the two hots being on the opposite legs for the shared neutral.

Mango
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1 edit

The neutral isn't shared. I don't mind calling an electrician if this is more than a DIY fix but I would like to understand the problem.



StillLearn
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1 edit

said by Mango:

The neutral isn't shared.

You sound sure. You may want to re-think that.

That brings up another thing. When you do your voltage tests, I suggest putting a load onto the circuit. You can plug something in half way, and probe the blades. Alternatively, plug in an extension cord. Plug your load into that extension, and also probe your voltage on the extension cord. The point of the load is to make sure that any capacitive coupling is negated.

For a load, maybe use something like a 60 watt lamp.


shows a multi-wire branch circuit as commonly done. Instead of connecting the neutral as shown, the electricians on this forum prefer to use a wire nut to connect the two long neutral wires plus a short pigtail wire to the outlet. Do you not have any hot wires going through an outlet boxes that are not wired to the outlet?

Mango
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said by StillLearn:

You sound sure. You may want to re-think that.

I hope my statements are accurate. The wiring doesn't match the diagram you posted earlier in the thread. Each circuit has black/white wires, not black/white/red, and the cables are separate.

said by StillLearn:

Do you not have any hot wires going through an outlet boxes that are not wired to the outlet?

I have only inspected about half of them but I have not found anything like that so far. All of the wires in every outlet box are wired to the outlet.


MatrixHDV

join:2012-09-25
Tuscaloosa, AL

1 edit

said by Mango:

All of the wires in every outlet box are wired to the outlet.

Before you strat tearing everything apart buy an outlet tester (about $5) and test your outlets for proper wiring or faults.


MatrixHDV

join:2012-09-25
Tuscaloosa, AL
reply to StillLearn

said by StillLearn:

The point of the load is to make sure that any capacitive coupling is negated.

The reason for a load is to force an imbalance between the hots revealing an high resistance or open neutral ground or both.

Capacitance does not play a role in an issue like this.


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said by MatrixHDV:

Capacitance does not play a role in an issue like this.

Yes, open wires will pick up voltages from nearby wires. A digital meter will not have enough load to show the voltage is real or capacitive-coupled. Hence why he gets 50V on a ground that is floating.

I get 4V on my meter just holding one lead and grounding the other.
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John Galt
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said by shdesigns:

Yes, open wires will pick up voltages from nearby wires. A digital meter will not have enough load to show the voltage is real or capacitive-coupled. Hence why he gets 50V on a ground that is floating.

Meters with a high input impedance will do that. That is why Sparkys use "wiggys" to check for voltages, not DMMs.


rfhar
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Buicktown,Mi

Do they sell anything like the Simpson 260 anymore?



shdesigns
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said by rfhar:

Do they sell anything like the Simpson 260 anymore?

They are on Amazon as "new".


MatrixHDV

join:2012-09-25
Tuscaloosa, AL
reply to shdesigns

said by shdesigns:

A digital meter will not have enough load to show the voltage is real or capacitive-coupled.

Last I checked the OP's meter was not a digital, as such capacitance does not play a role in this issue. .




MatrixHDV

join:2012-09-25
Tuscaloosa, AL
reply to rfhar

said by rfhar:

Do they sell anything like the Simpson 260 anymore?

My pesonal favorite is the 310 it more compact than a 260 and like the 260 still available.

»www.triplett.com/shop/model-310/


StillLearn
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reply to MatrixHDV

We don't know that Mango did not use one of these: »www.tequipment.net/ProtekA450.asp with a 10 MOhm input impedence.




I admit that is less likely.


SparkChaser
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said by StillLearn:

I admit that is less likely.






MatrixHDV

join:2012-09-25
Tuscaloosa, AL
reply to StillLearn

said by StillLearn:

We don't know that Mango did not use one of these: »www.tequipment.net/ProtekA450.asp with a 10 MOhm input impedence.

Had you bothered to read the thread you might have discovered the test equipment the OP is working with and going forward it is a good idea when proffering advice to understand what the OP is working with, before offering irrelevant, though ego stroking information.

BTW whats this "we" stuff Kemosahbee?

»Re: [Electrical] Overloaded neutral / building wiring fault


leibold
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reply to MatrixHDV

In the 250V AC setting this multimeter has an input impedance of 500k. While significantly less (1/20th) then the typical 10M of a digital voltmeter it would still be high enough to show a reading from capacitive coupling.

However I wouldn't be surprised if any stray voltages measured on the disconnected ground aren't the direct result of the circuit test inside the APC UPS!

I have an older APC SmartUPS (with circuit test LED) that shows a red light because the (GFCI protected) outlet doesn't have an equipment ground. Measuring the voltage between Ground and Neutral with a DVM while the UPS is connected I get a reading of 56V AC.
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MatrixHDV

join:2012-09-25
Tuscaloosa, AL

2 edits

said by leibold:

it would still be high enough to show a reading from capacitive coupling.

By 50 volts with his VOM, in a home with 120/240 service??

Come on now, you cannot be serious...


leibold
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I'm not going to argue specific voltage readings on an instrument that shows a reading of 150 when measuring 120V AC.

In order to get a real 50V reading on a multimeter with 500k impedance the ground wire would have to be coupled with 3.8nF to the hot wire (120V AC) only. In a real scenario the ground wire will have roughly equal capacity to all other wires in the cable (neutral and hot) which will make 1/2 the hot voltage (60V AC) the upper limit even before taking the load through the measuring device into account.

50V AC through capacitive coupling in the cable is extremely unlikely in a home, the cables are simply not long enough to get to the required capacity.
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MatrixHDV

join:2012-09-25
Tuscaloosa, AL

said by leibold:

In order to get a real 50V reading on a multimeter with 500k impedance the ground wire would have to be coupled with 3.8nF to the hot wire (120V AC) only. In a real scenario the ground wire will have roughly equal capacity to all other wires in the cable (neutral and hot) which will make 1/2 the hot voltage (60V AC) the upper limit even before taking the load through the measuring device into account.

Very impressive, a bit off and not really relevant to the OP’s problem..

50V AC through capacitive coupling in the cable is extremely unlikely in a home, the cables are simply not long enough to get to the required capacity.

Thanks for agreeing with me.


leibold
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reply to Mango

There is a distinct possibility that the ground to neutral voltage that you are measuring is coming from the circuit tester inside the APC UPS. If so, you can use that to your advantage and narrow down where the ground is interrupted in your home.

To confirm this theory please attach the UPS to the outlet where it was originally connected when you first discovered the issue with the ground to neutral voltage (the UPS may have to be on). See if you get the high ground to neutral voltage reading again. If so, disconnect the UPS and measure the same outlet again. If the theory is correct the ground to neutral voltage should be gone or at least much lower.
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spock

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reply to Mango

said by Mango:

So far I have found and fixed:

- Switched neutral on circuit #1 (home office) light.
- Wires stripped too far on circuit #2 light & plug.
- Grounds at multiple outlets not wired to code, but possibly working properly.
- Too many wires in multiple outlet boxes for no reason.

None of this actually solved the problem.

I did notice something helpful. When I shut off circuit #2, circuit #1 tests normal. So I suspect the problem is on #2 but I am going to inspect everything as a matter of course.

Thanks to everyone who has responded so far.

No offense but do yourself a favor and hire an electrician. I think you may have a resistive neutral (fire hazard). Judging on the description so far of your wiring it sounds like some amateur, with no knowledge of wiring, wired your house.

iknow_t

join:2012-05-03

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reply to Mango

if you want to know which is faulty, the neutral or ground, measure the AC voltage between those and a water pipe(only a full copper pipe from the meter), they should stay at 0 volts. if you measure a voltage at either one to the water pipe, that's the bad one, then you have to go through that whole path, to find where the bad connection is.



StillLearn
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1 edit

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reply to MatrixHDV

said by MatrixHDV:

Had you bothered to read the thread you might have discovered the test equipment the OP is working with and going forward it is a good idea when proffering advice to understand what the OP is working with, before offering irrelevant, though ego stroking information.

I had missed his post about what meter Mango was using. And I readily admitted that the 2000 ohms per volt meter would not be subject to the same fields that our high impedance devices are. I think liebold's thoughts on the UPS sensor circuit are useful.

I am not the one making ad hominem posts. I think you are miffed that your claim that there are no proper GFCIs for a MWBC (multi wire branch circuit) was mistaken.

The outcome of this will be interesting. Mango is technically able, though he has not done much electrical work. He will get this figured out and fixed. He has helped a lot of people here and elsewhere in things of consequence.

Mango
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I found an interrupted ground wire on the supposedly grounded circuit. I worked out how to fish a ground wire to this and the ungrounded circuit. I grounded them to another circuit that has proper ground. I was previously told not to do this but now I have a new inspector who states he will pass this when he sees it later. As the posts above predicted, that solved most of the problems.

I also found severely degraded insulation on wires at a ceiling light. It was so bad I decided not to touch it and had an electrician fix this one.

I'd like to thank everyone who gave me advice to help find the problems. I learned a lot.


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said by Mango:

I also found severely degraded insulation on wires at a ceiling light.

Maybe that damaged area was the root cause of the 225V meter reading.