 Reviews:
·Embarq Now Centu..
·CenturyLink
| When To Change Oil on Lawn Tractor? I have a Cub Cadet LTX 1050 that I bought in April 2013. My grass is beginning its slow decline in growth, and pretty soon I won't be needing to cut anymore.
That being said, when is the best time to change the oil? Now, before I store it, or when I break it out in spring? Also, is it recommended to add some fuel stabilizer and/or run it every now and then during the winter? |
|
 kherrPremium join:2000-09-04 Collinsville, IL | I've done mine in the spring, 14/15 seasons worth. |
|
 | reply to Hazy Arc
I do it before Winter each year. I either syphon out the gas or run it until it's dry before storing it. -- "Trust Me I'm The Doctor!" -Doctor Who |
|
 UHFAll static, all day, ForeverPremium,MVM join:2002-05-24 | reply to Hazy Arc
Either/Or. Spring is probably preferred, but I usually do mine in the fall so I'm ready to go first thing in the spring. |
|
 | reply to Hazy Arc
My concern is leaving the "dirty" oil to sit in the engine for the duration of the winter. Are my fears unfounded ? |
|
 HikerZeusPremium join:2002-10-27 Lebanon, NJ kudos:1 | reply to Hazy Arc
I do it middle of summer, once a year, I put about 40 hrs a year on mine... |
|
|
|
 JimCTPremium join:2006-01-11 Connecticut kudos:1 | reply to Hazy Arc
No, your fears are spot on. The best time to perform maintenance on your tractor is late fall after lawn mowing is over but before winter snow.
Use a quality filter and full synthetic oil, and you'll be all set with engine oil maintenance until next fall. That's the schedule used for my Rider's 22-hp Briggs engine- great results thus far! |
|
 robbinPremium,MVM join:2000-09-21 Leander, TX kudos:1 | reply to Hazy Arc
said by Hazy Arc:My concern is leaving the "dirty" oil to sit in the engine for the duration of the winter. Are my fears unfounded ?
I don' think the dirty oil would be as much of a problem as new oil absorbing moisture over the winter. I tend to do it in the fall but I don't winterize due to the fact that we don't really have a winter season long enough to require it. I may mow in January to mulch leaves. |
|
 JimCTPremium join:2006-01-11 Connecticut kudos:1 | said by robbin:I don' think the dirty oil would be as much of a problem as new oil absorbing moisture over the winter.
If the TBN has depleted over the course of the summer mowing season, the oil would no longer be able to protect interior surfaces, and leaving it in the engine in that condition for months of storage is asking for problems.
JMHO. |
|
 JimCTPremium join:2006-01-11 Connecticut kudos:1 | reply to Hazy Arc
said by Hazy Arc: Also, is it recommended to add some fuel stabilizer and/or run it every now and then during the winter?
You should add fuel stabilizer to every gallon of fuel you store for your lawn equipment. Modern fuels with ethanol start taking on water in about 2 weeks without stabilizer, and it gets worse from there. |
|
 robbinPremium,MVM join:2000-09-21 Leander, TX kudos:1 | reply to JimCT
said by JimCT:said by robbin:I don' think the dirty oil would be as much of a problem as new oil absorbing moisture over the winter.
If the TBN has depleted over the course of the summer mowing season, the oil would no longer be able to protect interior surfaces, and leaving it in the engine in that condition for months of storage is asking for problems. JMHO. I could agree with you here except that if the TBN was depleted then wouldn't damage already have been caused due to running the mower with worn out oil? |
|
 UHFAll static, all day, ForeverPremium,MVM join:2002-05-24 Reviews:
·Dish Network
·Callcentric
·DIRECTV
·surpasshosting
2 recommendations | reply to Hazy Arc
Cub Cadet says to change the oil every 50 hours. »www.cubcadet.com/webapp/wcs/stor···ips.html |
|
 JimCTPremium join:2006-01-11 Connecticut kudos:1 | reply to robbin
said by robbin:I could agree with you here except that if the TBN was depleted then wouldn't damage already have been caused due to running the mower with worn out oil? Yes, that is correct. I'm just saying that leaving oil that is worn out or close to it for a winter's worth of time just isn't good practice. I would much prefer to get fresh oil in there at the end of the mowing season rather than leave it in there.
Personally, if a high quality synthetic and high quality filter are used, one should easily be able to make a year's worth of time regardless of season changed (though I still think late fall is the best time). |
|
 1 edit | reply to Hazy Arc
The oil type is a heated debate on some sites. Conventional and synthetic both have merit. I personally use synthetic 10W30 Royal Purple. I use Marvel Mystery Oil & Seafoam in all my gas containers. I also try to stick to mid-grade 89 octane gas for lawn equipment. It seems to work better in chains saws or when mixed with 2-cycle oil. I try my best to change the oil after the last of the leaves have fallen since I use the mower to mulch the leaves. Most of the time I get it done before Winter but once in a while it sits until Spring. It doesn't seem to matter IMHO. I use the cheapest air/oil/fuel filters I can find. A filter is a filter. |
|
 PacratOld and CrankyPremium,MVM join:2001-03-10 Cortland, OH kudos:1 | reply to UHF
My Cub dealer recommends every 50 hours of operation, but cautions that full synthetic shouldn't be used until after the first 100 hours. Something about "break-in". Synthetics lubricate almost too well, I guess, not giving the rings and bearings an opportunity to "seat in". He does, in fact, recommend synthetic... claims the mower/tractor will run cooler that way. I use my tractor year-round as I have a snowblower attachment for mine, so I just follow manual specifications as to frequency of lube changes. -- Keep your eye on the ball, your shoulder to the wheel, your nose to the grindstone, and your ear to the ground. Now, try to work in that position!!! |
|
 JimCTPremium join:2006-01-11 Connecticut kudos:1 | said by Pacrat:My Cub dealer recommends every 50 hours of operation, but cautions that full synthetic shouldn't be used until after the first 100 hours. Something about "break-in". Depends on the engine manufacturer. Briggs allows synthetic from the first start: »www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/···ocedures
The only thing Briggs is picky about is the 10-hour oil change. I used SAE 30 for the first 10 hours, and then full synthetic from there on out. Great results- no oil consumption and easy winter starts! |
|