[Plumbing] Dealing with water heater smell, more mildew than sulfur
Went away for a month and I probably screwed up by turning off the water heater through the circuit breaker. I came back to a strong mildew smell and I finally figured out it was coming from the water heater. The articles I've read all suggest a sulfur / rotten egg smell from tank bacteria, but my subjective take is I'm smelling mildew.
I placed a good amount of hydrogen peroxide in the floor drain, just in case the funk was coming from it. Unfortunately, the smell still lingers.
I'd like to add hydrogen peroxide to the water heater, but as a layman I can't figure out how I can get it into the tank to add it. I'd also like to deal with the sacrificial anode rod. I think I know where the anode rod is, but I doubt I have the clearance to pull it out since the heater is under a staircase. Back in the day, I installed a new water heater on my own, but I've never seen such a clusterf*ck of connections on any other water heater like the one I now have. Disconnecting the water heater from that connection mess doesn't look easy. Just wondering if I need to hire someone, which I'm trying to avoid. If I did hire someone, I'd probably make then install a Rusco Hot Water Spin Down Filter - »www.cleanwaterstore.com/ ··· ers.html .
You could drain some water out and remove the T&P relief valve to add some peroxide, but that probably won't do anything about odors external to the tank.
I have a question for you: what is this device with it's own discharge piping teed into the cold inlet line, I have never seen a plumbing arrangement like this.
I get the vacuum breaker on the cold inlet tee (brass w/black cap) but can't fathom the other "valve" purpose.
Is the smell in the area of the water heater, or is it at the sink when you run the hot water? I'm just wondering how the drain became suspect as the source, since the heater tank is sealed and any smells inside will stay there until you open a tap.
Set the heater to 150-160F, let it stay for a day without use - that will kill the bacteria. Then flush it and set it to 140F (the minimum temperature for a water heater mandated by code in virtually all the civilized world except USA). On the bright side you saved a whole $2 in electricity costs over that month of being away. The standby losses of a modern electric heater are only using about 0.7kWh/day.
The old Red Cross first aid course said to boil water for ten minutes before drinking or cooking with it. You will not have to have the water this hot at your faucets as it cools down a lot going through the pipes . I would turn the thermostat up for several hours and warn everyone in the house. Of course you will want to cycle all of the water out of the tank in the process.
On this house and the last one I added insulation on my pipes and a couple hours later run the hot water and had steam come out of the faucets.
Second jack b question what is the plumbing loop on the cold water inlet?
/tom
Question about that, the space above the heater in a family member's home is maybe 1 Ft or 1.5Ft so you say get a flexible rod but then how do you get the old rod out?
It's past it's 5 year rating (I think it was installed in '98) it's a gas heater btw.
Is the smell in the area of the water heater, or is it at the sink when you run the hot water? I'm just wondering how the drain became suspect as the source, since the heater tank is sealed and any smells inside will stay there until you open a tap.
id say shut off the water and power, let sit if its currently hot or at least work with it carefully and only kill the power. find a way to get a short length of hose to run from that drain valve to the floor drain and open the valve. it cannot hurt to fully flush the unit.
What is this device with it's own discharge piping teed into the cold inlet line, I have never seen a plumbing arrangement like this.
said by tschmidt :
What is the plumbing loop on the cold water inlet?
I have no clue guys. This house isn't that old (25 years) for such a pipe mess.
said by Tig :
I'm just wondering how the drain became suspect as the source, since the heater tank is sealed and any smells inside will stay there until you open a tap.
The drain was never suspect, it was the easiest thing to dump hydrogen peroxide down.
said by tschmidt :
You can get flexible anode rod if you don't have enough height to install a solid one. Since you are replacing it the old one it will be pretty much corroded away so should be easy to bend to remove. If not simply cut it into sections.
I would probably get someone in here if I have to start cutting the rod with practically no clearance.
said by cowboyro :
Set the heater to 150-160F, let it stay for a day without use - that will kill the bacteria.
On the bright side you saved a whole $2 in electricity costs over that month of being away.
So I try to get to the thermostat by taking off the access cover. The heater's insulation is super tight behind a clear plastic barrier. So tight, I believe I will rip the insulation to get to the thermostat. Man, this is like origami. In the past on other models, I simply lifted a flap of insulation up to access the thermostat.
It was a dipsh*t move to turn off the water heater.
said by Kearnstd :
Find a way to get a short length of hose to run from that drain valve to the floor drain and open the valve. it cannot hurt to fully flush the unit.
Another situation with no clearance for even a cheap hose. I have a feeling I would need one of those new expandable hoses to make this happen, which also might not work because its rigid stem looks longer than the space I have to the floor - »zoffbuy.com/media/catalo ··· 9399.jpg .
I'm assuming the water heater was a replacement since the house has been built. In addition, I figured out the company who installed it and their reviews on Yelp are pretty crappy about nickel and diming. I assume they took shortcuts instead of cleaning up the pipe mess.
Unless it's leaking water into its insulation and growing mildew, I don't see how the heater could be causing any smells. I'd be looking to see if the floor drain trap dried up and is letting sewer smells into the room. Or getting my nose in there and trying to pinpoint the smell.
To the OP ... good luck finding a flexible aluminum anode rod. (I have a flexible magnesium one used for only six months if you're interested. Then my 13-year-old heater sprung a leak and I replaced it with a stainless.) If you manage to loosen the old rod, pulling it should be relatively easy, as they will bend or break fairly easily once they get to 4-5 years old.
The "open" pipe is to break the vacuum in the drain line. Probably required to prevent backflow, because the pipe goes to floor level instead of 2 pipe diameters above the floor level. I am guessing it goes to floor level so it does not splash.
There is a vacuum breaker (black top) on the cold water line, probably required by code.
Do you have a pressure reducing valve on the incoming water line? I can only guess that 3-way fitting is a relief valve intended to connect in-line. Since they located it off to the side, the installer piped both inlet and outlet because it might not work properly if one was just capped.
That would make sense if it was stinky water he was complaining about, but it's a stinky water heater. How is the water inside the tank making the area around the heater smell?
That would make sense if it was stinky water he was complaining about, but it's a stinky water heater. How is the water inside the tank making the area around the heater smell?
Good point. Suggested diagnostic: Since hydrogen sulfide gas in the tank will rise to the highest point in the system, turning on the highest faucet after no water use for many hours should result in a rotten egg odor. Breathe deep. Do you smell it?
The bacteria also produce hydrogen, which will add pressure to the system slightly beyond the pressure added by heating the water. This opens the relief valve, possibly venting only gas or just a small amount of water, so the odor is carried outside the heater. Gas odors could come out of the pipe marked "OPENING".
H2S is the result of septic conditions or iron bacteria respiration. Drain,flush hot water tank, threw the floor drain @ the tank. That will clear the drain and tank, refill tank, chlorine in new water will help kill bacteria in tank. Bring the tank up to the highest temp the thermostat allows, and keep it there for 2-3 days, you can use the water as normal, but be aware its really HOT. Return to normal temp 140+, you should be good. If problem persists, remove sacrificial anode.
My day job is I operate a Municipal water plant, we get these complaints when we turn on a service that has been off for a while. If you call the water company, they should have a brochure or leaflet that explains the problem, cause and cures.
Getting the anode rod loose would probably be harder than getting it out. It will take a 1-1/8 impact socket on a 3/4 inch impact wrench to loosen the rod probably. Do you have access to such a tool?
If you got it loose, you could probably bend it since the rod will be mostly a thin steel rod by this time.
If you get somebody in to change the rod, expect to change the water heater.