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Anon

[Help] '02 Buick Regal Front power windows don't work.

Hi all, my Mom's '02 Buick Regal [GM junk] front power windows aren't working. There is a lock switch that I toggled repeatedly and still nothing. Both rear windows work correctly.

So, where to start diagnosing this? Lock switch internally corroded? Are there different fuses for the front and rear windows?

My guess would be something is amiss with that lockout switch on the driver's door panel. Does the switch group pop out or do I have to remove the door panel? How do I do either?

Any advice on how to begin would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
hosedagain3
join:2008-02-18
Canada

hosedagain3

Member

If nobody chimes in try a repair manual from the library, I did a internet search but didn't find anything, maybe there is a forum?

bmilone2
join:2001-01-26
Mays Landing, NJ

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TBH, there are many possibilities as to why the front only don't work and unfortunately from your questions it appears you don't have a DIY background. If you have a trusted mechanic I'd suggest you take it there.

GM Junk
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GM Junk

Anon

said by bmilone2:

TBH, there are many possibilities as to why the front only don't work and unfortunately from your questions it appears you don't have a DIY background.

I agree it doesn't appear I have a DIY background from my question, but I do. I'm just not a DIYer by choice, more out of necessity.

Shortly after my post I used my Google fu and found some answers. First I found a slick video on how to replace the offending switch. Seems to be a common failure. Then I was able to find an aftermarket switch for $20 shipped on Amazon »www.amazon.com/gp/produc ··· 7DZAO82O

It's raining cats and dogs out right now, so it will have to wait. I think I'll take out the switch and blast it with some silicone spray to try and revive it. If that doesn't work I'll buy the cheap aftermarket switch.

Thanks, all!

Cho Baka
MVM
join:2000-11-23
there

Cho Baka

MVM

Silicone is not recommended for lubrication of switches.

mattmag

join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois

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Most likely the issue is isolated to the two front doors. Would not be out of the question for both front window motors to be seized and/or defective. Do you know the history? Did one quit then the other or both together?

Next most common is wire breakage in harness between A-Pillars to doors. The harness is covered with a rubber sleeve, so to test it you need to probe the harness inside the doors to determine which wire is open. Alternatively, you can carefully slice open the sleeve tubing and visually inspect the wires. Sometimes you can actually feel through the sleeve and feel separated wires. It can be sealed up again very nicely with quality electrical tape after you have spliced the wire.

You can rule out the switches if the windows don't work from either the driver's door or the passenger door, and the lock switch also has no effect on the driver's panel. The windows would still work from that control.

bmilone2
join:2001-01-26
Mays Landing, NJ

bmilone2

Member

said by mattmag:

You can rule out the switches if the windows don't work from either the driver's door or the passenger door, and the lock switch also has no effect on the driver's panel. The windows would still work from that control.

Good point.

GM Junk
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said by Cho Baka:

Silicone is not recommended for lubrication of switches.

Good point, and I know this. The reason I've found depends on the brand of silicone spray. For instance, I've found the Liquid Wrench version to be pretty gentle, while the CRC branded version to be quite harsh. I learned this by trying to clean an LP with it. Needless to say, it ruined the record.
GM Junk

GM Junk to mattmag

Anon

to mattmag
said by mattmag:

Most likely the issue is isolated to the two front doors. Would not be out of the question for both front window motors to be seized and/or defective. Do you know the history? Did one quit then the other or both together?

Next most common is wire breakage in harness between A-Pillars to doors. The harness is covered with a rubber sleeve, so to test it you need to probe the harness inside the doors to determine which wire is open. Alternatively, you can carefully slice open the sleeve tubing and visually inspect the wires. Sometimes you can actually feel through the sleeve and feel separated wires. It can be sealed up again very nicely with quality electrical tape after you have spliced the wire.

You can rule out the switches if the windows don't work from either the driver's door or the passenger door, and the lock switch also has no effect on the driver's panel. The windows would still work from that control.

They stopped working at the same time. It's not the motors.

You know, I thought you were nuts when you offered up a break in the wiring up and around the A-Pillars... And, that joint in the doors. But, I'll be darned... That lockout switch doesn't seem to do anything at all, no matter what.

Good news? I went out after the rain died down and everything is working again... Hmmm.

So, who knows? But, you can bet I'll be following Mattmag's advice and paying close attention to the wiring from the doors up and around the A-Pillars.

Thanks, everyone!
bigozone1
join:2013-02-08
Corbin, KY

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just a thought, but don't high draw devices like that often work off of a relay switch under the hood??

mattmag

join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois

mattmag

said by bigozone1 :

just a thought, but don't high draw devices like that often work off of a relay switch under the hood??

Some things do, but those power windows are not among that list. The current is directly controlled (switched) from the panels on the doors.