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mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON

[Carpentry] How the heck do I put this piece in!!!

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Can someone people provide some insight as do how I would cut this piece and get it in? I've already split it into 2 pieces and the right most door casing. Any advice for how to transfer to laminate is also welcome. I've watched some youtube video's but all are like 1 casing that's tricky but I've done 2 already. But this is driving me up the wall!

If you need more info let me know, but anyone is welcome to blurb.

Thanks in advance!


LazMan
Premium
join:2003-03-26
canada

1 recommendation

[Carpentry] Re: How the heck do I put this piece in!!!

There's probably several ways, and I won't pretend mine is the only, or even best way... Just the best one I know...

After you undercut the door casing, trim back the 'lock' part of the tounge with a sharp knife, so that you can slide the piece into the adjacent one, without have to tilt it up.

Once you do a dry fit, and are happy with it, run a thin bead of glue (I use plain old carpenter's glue) along the groove side; slide the adjacent piece in, then a couple of strips of painter's tape to hold it tight while the glue sets.


Gord

@69.165.175.x
reply to mikekay
Cut the trim not the flooring.

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
reply to mikekay
Figured both of those answers would come up.

Time to bust out the grinder no sense in messing with it.

Side Question: How can I dry fit when I have the bathroom (tiles) casing on that side.

Id have to cut the casing high enough to be able to slide 'up' then knock to side right?

Thanks for the advice so far!


ropeguru
Premium
join:2001-01-25
Mechanicsville, VA
reply to mikekay
I would also add to LazMan that I would also pop in a few small finishing nails on the back side. As small of a hole that they make you could fill with a black filler and would probably never notice it.

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
reply to mikekay
Also forgot to mention the damn casing is metal as its a condo sooooo Ill have to setup a guard and cut away. Due to all the other flooring/furniture around.

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
reply to ropeguru
said by ropeguru:

I would also add to LazMan that I would also pop in a few small finishing nails on the back side. As small of a hole that they make you could fill with a black filler and would probably never notice it.

I would if my floor wasn't concrete =D

I do glue all very small peices, and edges though.


ropeguru
Premium
join:2001-01-25
Mechanicsville, VA
said by mikekay:

I would if my floor wasn't concrete =D

Uh, yeah... I guess that would have been that "little more info" that I needed to know before suggesting.

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
said by ropeguru:

said by mikekay:

I would if my floor wasn't concrete =D

Uh, yeah... I guess that would have been that "little more info" that I needed to know before suggesting.

Sorry man no worries wasn't bashing the idea or nothing

Thanks for the help I can see that I will have to grind it tonight.


ropeguru
Premium
join:2001-01-25
Mechanicsville, VA
Oh, no problem here at all. Was just referencing the end of your post about requesting more info if needed.

Sorry if my reply came across as I had an issue.

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
reply to mikekay
Thanks guys for the quick replies love the forum and the community!

If you ever need Database help or Computer help just shoot me IM.

Hope you have a good weekend.


davidg
Good Bye My Friend
Premium,MVM
join:2002-06-15
none
reply to mikekay
I had a similar situation doing our hall and my daughter's floor in laminate. I had to do it as described above for the most part but with a twist.

I do have wood trim so I was able to cut the trim first. But due to the way the doors inset there was no room to do the normal snap lock. So what I did when I got close was leave out a run or two, trim the lock groove on the door piece, then put it in place. Then I slid my missing pieces in and tapped them tight. one place I did glue it because it was both high traffic and the only way to guarantee a tight fit.
--
Lack of Preparation on YOUR Part does NOT Constitute an Emergency on Mine!


nunya
LXI 483
Premium,MVM
join:2000-12-23
O Fallon, MO
kudos:12
reply to mikekay
Trim the bottom of the casing and use the "glue" method LazMan mentioned above. Of course you'll need a new piece of flooring.
--
If someone refers to herself / himself as a "guru", they probably aren't.

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
said by nunya:

Trim the bottom of the casing and use the "glue" method LazMan mentioned above. Of course you'll need a new piece of flooring.

I could just leave it there will be caulk around it anyway. and baseboard fitted into the corners I will try the current piece and see if all is hidden if not new piece it is

robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1
reply to mikekay
said by mikekay:

forgot to mention the damn casing is metal

I would not recommend trying to cut a metal casing. It will be hard to get a good cut but most importantly, you will have exposed metal at the bottom and it will rust over time.

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
reply to davidg
said by davidg:

I had a similar situation doing our hall and my daughter's floor in laminate. I had to do it as described above for the most part but with a twist.

I do have wood trim so I was able to cut the trim first. But due to the way the doors inset there was no room to do the normal snap lock. So what I did when I got close was leave out a run or two, trim the lock groove on the door piece, then put it in place. Then I slid my missing pieces in and tapped them tight. one place I did glue it because it was both high traffic and the only way to guarantee a tight fit.

Sweet good spin as well. I have to cut the casing first I hope I dont run into any problems :|

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
reply to robbin
said by robbin:

said by mikekay:

forgot to mention the damn casing is metal

I would not recommend trying to cut a metal casing. It will be hard to get a good cut but most importantly, you will have exposed metal at the bottom and it will rust over time.

But you then have silicone/caulking over top of it ,,, should be fine.

You suggest not to cut the casing but don't suggest how I should do it. So the post is somewhat irrelevant. As of right now cutting the casing is the only option.

dbamber

join:2003-02-07
Bandon, OR
Reviews:
·Suddenlink
·CenturyLink
reply to mikekay
Backcut the door frame, and casings to allow the flooring to slide under the frame, and casings. I have a Bosch flush cut saw that works well doing this. I would take a piece of scrap flooring the same thickness to rest the saw blade on to allow the blade to be supported when making your cuts. Another way to do this would be to make a template out of #15, or #30 felt, and lay it on the flooring, mark it, and cut it. Vinyl flooring installers use this for installing sheet goods.

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
said by dbamber:

Backcut the door frame, and casings to allow the flooring to slide under the frame, and casings. I have a Bosch flush cut saw that works well doing this. I would take a piece of scrap flooring the same thickness to rest the saw blade on to allow the blade to be supported when making your cuts. Another way to do this would be to make a template out of #15, or #30 felt, and lay it on the flooring, mark it, and cut it. Vinyl flooring installers use this for installing sheet goods.

Thats another vote on the casing. But if someone ever decides to go back to carpet they would have a massive gap. But I dont really care about that, its a condo not a house that I will live in for the next 20-35

robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1

1 recommendation

reply to mikekay
said by mikekay:

You suggest not to cut the casing but don't suggest how I should do it. So the post is somewhat irrelevant.

Nothing irrelevant about bringing up the fact that cutting a metal casing will cause problems in the future. I don't know what brand flooring that is but here are instructions from Wilson Art.

"When installing the flooring at the doorframe, allow for the proper 1/4" expansion clearance.
For metal frames and fire door frames, the flooring panels should be cut to fit around the frames. Leave a 3/16" (4.75mm) expansion space and fill it with color-matched Wilsonart® perimeter sealant."

»www.floorcoveringworld.com/Downl···tion.pdf

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
said by robbin:

said by mikekay:

You suggest not to cut the casing but don't suggest how I should do it. So the post is somewhat irrelevant.

Nothing irrelevant about bringing up the fact that cutting a metal casing will cause problems in the future. I don't know what brand flooring that is but here are instructions from Wilson Art.

"When installing the flooring at the doorframe, allow for the proper 1/4" expansion clearance.
For metal frames and fire door frames, the flooring panels should be cut to fit around the frames. Leave a 3/16" (4.75mm) expansion space and fill it with color-matched Wilsonart® perimeter sealant."

»www.floorcoveringworld.com/Downl···tion.pdf

Does it say how to snap it down? when you have 3 casings with 1 running perpendicular?

I can cut around it but trying to measure around it is very hard because all your little 1/8 blade thickness, round up, round down. can add up to a big gap at the end of the cut.


mk_416

@108.168.55.x
reply to mikekay
Make all of the notch cuts first and don't try to fit it until the cuts are made, guaranteed to split otherwise.

Also depending on what kind of baseboard and or corner round combo that is going back on the wall you can give yourself more room, the floor in the left corner won't have to be more than 1/4" under the baseboard/corner round. I can't be 100% on the right side as I can't see how the wall is placed and how many flooring joints are in play.


davidg
Good Bye My Friend
Premium,MVM
join:2002-06-15
none
reply to mikekay
to get it to fit in the perpendicular facing simply cut 1 flooring piece in half. use the cut side of each to pattern after the frames. this way you preserve the tongue and groove ends. you put them down and lock them together. if you trim the tongue a little and use some glue then you can possibly get it so that you do not end up with a huge gap on one side, the normal expansion gap should suffice.
--
Lack of Preparation on YOUR Part does NOT Constitute an Emergency on Mine!

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
said by davidg:

to get it to fit in the perpendicular facing simply cut 1 flooring piece in half. use the cut side of each to pattern after the frames. this way you preserve the tongue and groove ends. you put them down and lock them together. if you trim the tongue a little and use some glue then you can possibly get it so that you do not end up with a huge gap on one side, the normal expansion gap should suffice.

So I shouldn't cut the casing? I should notch around? if you view the orginal pic you will see on the right that I have cut the board in order to fill the 'back side' or 'inside the room'

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
reply to mk_416
said by mk_416 :

Make all of the notch cuts first and don't try to fit it until the cuts are made, guaranteed to split otherwise.

Also depending on what kind of baseboard and or corner round combo that is going back on the wall you can give yourself more room, the floor in the left corner won't have to be more than 1/4" under the baseboard/corner round. I can't be 100% on the right side as I can't see how the wall is placed and how many flooring joints are in play.

So another vote on not cutting the casing?


Jim
Premium
join:2003-02-10
I wouldn't cut the casing myself. Didn't someone suggest a template? You could tweak it until it was 'just right'. Take off the tongue (such as there is) so you're not fighting it and glue the piece down.

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
said by Jim:

I wouldn't cut the casing myself. Didn't someone suggest a template? You could tweak it until it was 'just right'. Take off the tongue (such as there is) so you're not fighting it and glue the piece down.

I might do the template idea, generally speaking now everyone is saying dont cut the casing?


nunya
LXI 483
Premium,MVM
join:2000-12-23
O Fallon, MO
kudos:12
Reviews:
·Charter
·voip.ms
·surpasshosting
I'd cut that shit in a heartbeat. An angle grinder will make a nice clean cut. Even if you cut every notch, it'll look like crap when you scoot it into place.
--
If someone refers to herself / himself as a "guru", they probably aren't.

mikekay
Premium
join:2011-01-29
Kitchener, ON
said by nunya:

I'd cut that shit in a heartbeat. An angle grinder will make a nice clean cut. Even if you cut every notch, it'll look like crap when you scoot it into place.

I agree, I have an angle grinder and cut disc I just want to continue with it as fast as possible because I can only cut until 7pm, before the condo starts running up the stairs to tell me to shut up.


Jim
Premium
join:2003-02-10
reply to nunya
said by nunya:

I'd cut that shit in a heartbeat. An angle grinder will make a nice clean cut. Even if you cut every notch, it'll look like crap when you scoot it into place.

Cutting the casing is...well...permanent. Once started there really isn't any going back. I'd try the template idea first. Cut a piece of laminate and see how it looks.
If still not up to snuff you could still cut the casing.