dslreports logo
 
    All Forums Hot Topics Gallery
spc
Search similar:


uniqs
2716
nauru0
join:2011-02-02

nauru0

Member

Need new power adapter for Linksys PAP2T. Help?

I'm looking for a power adapter that will work 100% perfectly with my Linksys PAP2T. I'm not sure what size the hole in the PAP2T is though, and can't find the specs so it's making it difficult to select the right power adapter.

Can anyone please help?

Thank you!
taraf
join:2011-05-07
Ottawa, ON

taraf

Member

If you know the voltage and tip polarity, then you can get a universal DC adapter from your favourite electronics store. They come with plugs to fit just about any connector size.

Maxx2006
join:2013-02-02
Guelph, ON

Maxx2006 to nauru0

Member

to nauru0
Usually the voltage specs are by the adapter hole on the ATA or on the bottom of the
ATA. Can you take the unit with you to an electronics store. Just watch out for centre positive or negative polarity. Amazon is staying this is the one.

»www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_s ··· 2%20VolP

dillyhammer
START me up
Premium Member
join:2010-01-09
Scarborough, ON

dillyhammer to nauru0

Premium Member

to nauru0

PAP2T power supply label
Here is a scan from the adapter of my PAP2T, which I keep for a backup.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Mike

frankhomeand
Cisco Geek
join:2004-12-05
Oakland, CA

frankhomeand to nauru0

Member

to nauru0
This ?
»www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_ ··· &_sop=15
despe666
join:2009-06-20
Montreal, QC

despe666 to nauru0

Member

to nauru0
Or find yourself an electronic store in your area, for sure they would have an equivalent adapter. I'm talking about a real electronic store (with breadboards, resistors, etc), not Future Shop and such

You need to make sure to match the voltage, tip polarity (pin positive), make sure the tip physically fits in your device (duh), and you have at least as much amps as the device requires (you would get that from the device's label, just because your original adapter is a 2A doesn't mean the device requires that much)

The Source has universal power supplies but you will overpay. A lot. »www.thesource.ca/estore/ ··· =8000630
nauru0
join:2011-02-02

nauru0 to frankhomeand

Member

to frankhomeand
I did see that. However the original adapter that's giving me problems is one I ordered off ebay from china. So I wasn't sure if it's a good idea to order again from China. I normally have a good experience with Chinese goods from ebay, but my adapter hasn't worked out well...
nauru0

nauru0 to dillyhammer

Member

to dillyhammer
said by dillyhammer:

Here is a scan from the adapter of my PAP2T, which I keep for a backup.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Mike

Thanks. Mine is the same except 0.35A instead of 0.3A.
nauru0

nauru0 to Maxx2006

Member

to Maxx2006
said by Maxx2006:

Usually the voltage specs are by the adapter hole on the ATA or on the bottom of the
ATA. Can you take the unit with you to an electronics store. Just watch out for centre positive or negative polarity. Amazon is staying this is the one.

»www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_s ··· 2%20VolP

I don't know what centre postive or negative polarity are, how do I tell which one I've got?

I saw that item, also saw this cheaper one and emailed the guy to ask if it was compatible with pap2t and he said it is. »www.amazon.ca/HDE-5V-Pow ··· AP2+VolP
But I've fried some expensive equipment over the years by trusting the advice of seemingly confident people on the internet when it comes to electronic goods so i'm just nervous...

"Oh your phillips shaver is fine for either 110 or 230 volts, it'll be fine for you to just plug it in and use it when you're in Europe. *pop*" Bye bye shaver. lol. Same with a nice wireless router.

Maxx2006
join:2013-02-02
Guelph, ON

Maxx2006

Member

Thanks to Mike ( dillyhammer ) if you look at his picture of the power supply it shows center positive. This is indicated by the symbol between the MAX and LPS. I do not know your location but i use Sayal for some of my electronics.

»www.sayal.com/zinc/index.asp
jumpingryan
join:2008-07-27
Pembroke, ON

jumpingryan to nauru0

Member

to nauru0

In a pinch, you could rig this up to a computer PSU with some wire and the correct barrel plug. I ended up doing this for a device I needed powered off of a PSU.

This might not be applicable to you, but perhaps to others:

A desktop PSU is a good way to power multiple consumer items (Rasp-Pi, assorted USB powered devices & many routers/switches, etc) in complicated setups.

You can replace a bunch of cheap offshore power bricks with a high efficiency gold/platinum PSU off of a 120 or 220 volt PDU.

Pick a PSU that has the required wattage required (volts X amps = watts) with a few hundred watts allowance (go to the max of 80% if possible although technically a PSU is rated for the 100% DC wattage)

A desktop PSU has standard voltages that match many electronics including 3.3, 5 & 12 volts.

Just google how to dummy start a PSU with a paper clip, and wikipedia the wiring diagram for a PSU. Make sure you have the right polarity.... your device, and MOST consumer devices are center positive due to a level of perceived safety.

In this case, you would be looking for the 5 Volt wire (generally red) from a PSU and the black ground (any will do). Solder wires to the correctly sized barrel plug, or pick a barrel plug that will allow screw in connections. You can sacrifice a cheap molex extension cable, and remove the 12 Volt wire and pin (generally yellow)

Use a quality ohm meter to ensure you have the correct voltage and polarity at the barrel plug when you are complete, and plug in.

As a test, check some of your other consumer grade power bricks with the ohm meter to get the feel of things. Be careful to avoid shorting the bricks out with the prongs of the ohm meter.

On to the power brick picture:

While the input voltage is good to understand (in this case you can use from 100 to 240 volts AC at 50 to 60 Hz- the wavy line indicates AC) - This type of power is pretty much universal in North America.

The output voltage and current is what you need to push to the device. 5 Volts DC (the solid line above the staggered indicates DC), at 2 amps.

Matching volts is critical. Less or more volts will likely damage the device in one way or another. Cheap power bricks can often provide unstable voltage, sometimes quickly, and sometimes slowly killing a device.

Matching amps is critical in the sense that you need to have 2 A minimum at 5 volt DC output to power the device since the PSU brick output is rated for 2 A max.

As previously stated by another reply, going greater than listed amps as long as the voltage is correct won't hurt the device (the device at max workload likely draws a max of 80% of 2 A at 5 V), but you can put yourself at risk of overload on the slight chance something internally fails in the device and/or should the device in some way be allowed to draw more amps.

I won't go into what level of internal protection a device may have, because it is far beyond what the OP is interested in, and variable to all the DC powered electronics out there.

------------

If you do rig something up with a PSU, good selection of a thicker gauge of wire past the brick is important.... most PSU's use 18 gauge or better (smaller number equals larger wire) wire on the DC side. Keep it at the same gauge of wire all the way through, and keep your lengths as short as possible to avoid voltage drop aka resistance.

Good luck, and I am sure the replacement will go well. It is actually fairly easy to understand what you need once you get some of the technical aspects down.

Ryan