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to Hummel
Without actually seeing the house, and the level of finish of things like the basement. I can give you some tips for your setup:
1) Hardwire where you can and when you have reasonable access. Also consider your level of skill at DYI, wiring, repairs, and labour, as this sort of work is expensive to contract out.
One to two runs of CAT 6 to a central spot like the TV room can save money in the end (hardwire can be cheaper and more reliable than numerous wifi hook ups for TV, blue ray, Sat Receiver, etc if device doesn't have built in wireless).
Here is an example of one of the best ways to do things (the way my previous two residences were wired... note this is probably the most expensive way to go, but my labour was free. It also requires some tools and DIY skills.
Start from where your phone line comes into the house in say the panel/furnace/utility room. Have a phone line/cable line jack hooked there. Ensure you have a plug for 120 V power. Provide a small plywood mounting board for your setup to keep it neat.
Hook up cable/DSL modem to there. Disable wireless on the modem if it is a combo, and DHCP. In short, you just need the modem to be a DSL/cable modem, and not an all in one.
Then do one/two runs of cat 6 wire to the main TV in a good wireless transmission location, where a wireless router will be. That router will do the wireless, and other internal network address assignments. If you need more ports for the TV, blue ray, xbox, etc, add a gigabit switch beside the router.
The second run back to the utility rom is optional but will allow you to take things to the next level.
It is best to do now if you want another wired run to go to some other part of the house (second TV, office area, etc.).
Get an 8 Port Gigabit switch, and perhaps a patch panel for neatness. Individual runs will start from the utility room to your other hardwired areas (other TV's, offices, etc). You will need only one run to each location this time. As the wire terminates to each location, you can add a gigabit switch or even two for your hardwired hook ups.
There are other options, but I found this way gives me the most flexibility to start at my utility room, and hardwire from there. You could have the wireless router in the utility room, but this setup is all about giving best wireless and wired signals.... a utility room is usually out of sight away from the living areas of a house & full of things that slightly interfere with good wireless.
2) Powerline adapters are also an option to get wired internet to where you need it as well, and may be compatible with a switch. However, depending on your connection speed, they may also be a choke point for busy networks.
3) D-Link makes inexpensive wired gigabit (wouldn't buy 10/100 in this day/age) switches that allow you to expand your connections. If you run one wired to the TV, you can use a 5 or 8 port hub to hook up the remaining 4/7 devices.
4) If you do upgrade to a new router and stick with a mostly wireless setup, consider a multi-band setup.
5) When hardwiring, use better quality wire on your runs behind walls, min cat 6.
6) If possible, and opening parts of walls to provide access, add conduit tubing (3/4" or greater, but 1/2" if space is a premium).
The tubing is not necessarily for the runs you are using - run the wiring outside the tubing unless you want to protect, but for future upgrade points. You will then be able to fish in upgraded wiring as need arises.
It is light blue, and flexible, and comes with attachment connectors suitable for low voltage boxes.
Who knows when CAT 6 won't be good enough, or you need an extra coax for that certain device, or when a fibre hardwire might be more your style.
With inexpensive low voltage rough in's, you will save ass-pain and labour later. When I am renovating, I try and do that for things like thermostat runs, TV runs, and venmar low voltage switches as well to a central point in the utilitiy via conduit. It is overkill, but a little thought makes life alot easier for the next renovation.
7) Google the max CAT 6 lengths for wiring, and keep it no more than 80% of that.... most houses wont' be affected due to size and scale, but places with detached outbuildings & long runs sometimes are. A 125 foot run in a house means it is a pretty sizeable residence, however, a built in point to add a switch will bring you back to zero.
Good luck, and PM me if you need some further ideas. My latest project is going to be an attic wiring run from the a bungalow attic to the basement for satellite cables, and future use. I hate runs on the outside of a house.
Ryan |
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No worries Hummel.....
My setup is only part way elegant right now, because it takes time....
It isn't that hard to learn low voltage wiring if your patient, but if it isn't for you, there is always the option of hiring a network professional (or even a network amatur that you can direct, LOL).
The problem is, hiring the work is expensive, and they don't always do an exacting job (at least to my standards)... that's why I took to the net to self learn by DIY.
While nothing pisses me off more than no-shows (lacks professionalism), it isn't really Bell's role to deal with the inside wiring, and the "intra-net/internal network" setup.
They got out of inside wiring as a part of their core service years ago before they even stopped offering internet. From the demark, the wiring is yours.
Good luck,
Ryan |