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ArgMeMatey
join:2001-08-09
Milwaukee, WI

ArgMeMatey to Hellrazor

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to Hellrazor

Re: [Electrical] Interesting Outlet covers...

said by Hellrazor:

Thats an interesting quote since the IBEW electrician, with about 40 years of commercial/industrial experience, we used at work 10 years ago did this on every outlet or switch he worked on. Mostly because he did everything hot and made it impossible to short things out against the box when installing or removing something.

Ditto. I've seen many licensed electricians (usually union on commercial jobs) tape over the terminals. I worked in a large building in the 80s which was completely re-wired in this way. One of the guys had originally wired the building when it was built in the late 40s using solder-and-tape for splices.

Working hot sometimes, and as explained to me, a safeguard when using stranded wire, in case a stray strand pokes out, or in case a strand is nicked and breaks on insertion.

It may be UL listed but as already mentioned I would be uncomfortable using this with steel boxes or steel mud rings. Yes, the power should be shut off before removing the cover plate, but we all know that isn't necessarily the case all the time.

For example, local codes here do not require a license or permit to remove and replace a cover plate. Think about painters, amateur and professional. That's probably a million cover plates removed every day. Who wants to be responsible for that claim just for the sake of a little light?

robbin
Mod
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX

robbin

Mod

said by ArgMeMatey:

It may be UL listed but as already mentioned I would be uncomfortable using this with steel boxes or steel mud rings.

Why? It is clear from the pics that the conductors are on the inside of the plastic. It can't come into contact with the box.

StephenRC
join:2013-11-02
Satellite Beach, FL

StephenRC

Member

That's right, no exposed metal except on the side of the tabs that make contact with the outlet.

ArgMeMatey
join:2001-08-09
Milwaukee, WI

ArgMeMatey

Member

said by StephenRC:

That's right, no exposed metal except on the side of the tabs that make contact with the outlet.

Thanks for clarifying. I hadn't looked carefully at the photo and thought the whole tab was metal, not just the contact point.

More questions:
Why do to they specify that if the ground blade is up, the lights must point up?

Aren't receptacles usually symmetrical except for the ground screw and the reversal of hot/neutral aka ungrounded/grounded?

What difference would it make to reverse hot/neutral since the power is presumably being rectified anyway before going to the LEDs?

One of the illustrations makes it look like those tabs are mounted along a rail of sorts, as if they could be moved up and down, but that does not seem likely.

$12-15 for a nightlight. Figure 16 hours of use per day at 5 ma vs. incandescent, 120 V at 4W. I pay $0.15 per kW. If I were replacing one incandescent nightlight that I already own, on which I replace the $0.50 bulb maybe once a year, when would I start to see savings? I could do the math but I am wondering if somebody else already has done so.

enon
@205.185.209.x

enon

Anon

said by ArgMeMatey:

when would I start to see savings?

Does everything need to be about nickels and dimes? I'm fairly certain there's a considerable demographic more interested in aesthetics and/or convenience over cost. These covers offer a nice minimalist look while also potentially freeing up an outlet that would otherwise be tied up with a nightlight.

All of your other questions are certainly interesting and personally I wouldn't purchase until they're answered.

StephenRC
join:2013-11-02
Satellite Beach, FL

StephenRC to ArgMeMatey

Member

to ArgMeMatey
LEDs are to be on the same side as the ground prong hole. The tabs are slightly offset to be below the mounting screw towards the led side.

Tabs are not movable.

Like any energy savings, figure to break even after you're dead.