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aurgathor
join:2002-12-01
Lynnwood, WA

aurgathor

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what were your most PITA jobs on cars?

1. replacing a rear main oil seal on a 200 CID I6. If you've done this on any other RWD car, no explanation is needed. The parts needed for this cost very little, but one has to remove at least the tranny, clutch if MT, oil pan, and then lower the crankshaft just to get there, and finally re-assembly everything correctly. (I also had to remove the oil pump and some part of the front suspension) I may try this again if a shop were to ask too much, but I wouldn't bother with it unless the leak is really bad.

2. replacing a muffler. Schuck's had a 50% off sale a long time ago and I figured I'll replace the leaky muffler on my LTD. I had no idea how difficult it would be. At the end I had to use cold chisel and grinder to cut and peel off the tubing so I could remove the old muffler. Would never try this again -- I'd just go to a muffler shop.

3. replacing a fuel pump when the tank had jammed quick disconnect lines.
That was on my Bronco. It took me like half day to disconnect one line (there was some dirt in it) and then I spent at lest another day on the other one before I gave up. After another day or two, I just dragged out the tank with one of the line still attached to it.
From that point on, I started to wrap electric tape around those quick disconnects to protect them from dirt.

4. replacing the rear spark plugs and spark plug wires on a V6 Corsica. The engine needs to be tilted and several things have to be removed for a simple job like that
But many other things appear to be a PITA job on that engine -- I just didn't have to deal with them yet.

Cho Baka
MVM
join:2000-11-23
there

Cho Baka

MVM

Clutch on a 4WD Celica Turbo.

Flat rate time is ~14-15 hours.
Must drop the complete engine and tranny to do it.

shdesigns
Powered By Infinite Improbabilty Drive
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join:2000-12-01
Stone Mountain, GA
(Software) pfSense
ARRIS SB6121

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Heater core, most any vehicle.

Did the one on my Mustang. Remove center console, drop steering wheel the remove entire dash. Then you can start getting to the A/C stuff.

Did mine 2 years ago. This spring, A/C was low so added a bit of R134 and a bit of dye. 2 days later, got all of the refrig dumped through the vents in my face.

So, now get to do the teardown all again to do evap core.

BonezX
Basement Dweller
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join:2004-04-13
Canada

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Replacing main coolant line on a 2200FSI engine in a Sunfire, you have to completely remove the passenger side engine mount just to get at it, which pretty much requires a full set of metric and imperial sockets, a pry-bar and the hands of a surgeon so you don't snap AC lines.

Crank position sensor, same car, your average male arm does not fit between the brake box, intake and head and still allow enough transmission of force to remove it from the very much undersized hole that it is stuffed into.

Valve guide seal replacement, 1.6l Hyundai motor, such a pita that i actually got another car rather then fix it, so it sits in the yard until i have the time to pull the sucker apart and then go through the effort of re-timing everything.

Removing the drive shaft off of a 1988 ford mustang, that has lived in eastern Canada it's entire life, wasn't actually physically able to remove it from the car.
billydunwood
join:2008-04-23
united state

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Replacing the secondary air pump on an 04 S55 AMG with no lift, just a jack. Of course somebody told me it was easy to do, but it ended up taking us 3 hours because we had to remove the whole wheel well and when the old pump came out we couldn't figure out how to put the new pump in. Well, we had to take 3 brackets off, have 1 person hold the pump while the other attached the brackets to the car. And I am not a mechanic at all. Luckily it saved my friend $800 doing it ourselves.

Robert
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join:2001-08-25
Miami, FL

1 recommendation

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Making the monthly payments

killmenoa
@69.118.94.x

killmenoa

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All of them? lol

So many, not saying I was the lead in these but were at least involved.

Pulled the head off a eclipse with a 420a, and took out the pistons to rering... outside, on the ground, (dirt/regrind blacktop) 90f+ weather... most of the problem was the 90f+ weather... saw 100f+ on the thermometer (but won't say it was perfectly correct) heat index was over 100.

94 ford 7.3idi 2wd to a 94 7.3t 4x4. Had to be a plow truck... snow was in the forecast... brakes were not working... long story short, had to change over the master... but ya, what was not OMG, on that deal... it was converting a truck from 2wd idi to 4wd td...

Nother plow deal, getting the 6.2 m1028 ready for plowing... it was almost done snowing and I was trying to install the plow pump, (only was able to buy the plow setup 2 hours BEFORE it was about to snow) due to not knowing how the 12/24 volt system worked... and being SO tired... we took the time to isolate the WHOLE pump system (old rod style) so we were cutting floor mats to cover anything that could touch metal, drilling holes and sleeveing them with heater hose to prevent the rods from grounding... all we had to do was connect to the front not REAR battery...

To our credit, it made the WHOLE year, and STAYED isolated... of course a line blew the first storm, I dropped the truck off (as I was way behind HAD to be a day storm ending at 7am) and went in another truck... come to find out... the line that blew, touched, grounded out to 24volt (so I want to stay direct short to ground) while being taken off, caught the fluid on fire (lol) and burned itself off the truck rofl... Has to be the only time that has ever happened, ever, rubber plow hose (yaya has metal in it I know) grounds out, sparks, catches the ATF on fire lol. This year it will be rebuilt to 24volt.

A funny, way to hard deal... rear heater lines on a caravan I think... the book said to drop the engine cradle... trollolol... well we forced them in there...

I forgot some of the good ones... I think I just did not want to remember them lol...

Anything on a diesel sucks... freaking mess... part of the reason my 6.2l's oil lines are still leaking... can't wait to do that job... on two trucks... :-|

jrs8084
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join:2002-03-02
Statesville, NC

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There was a time when I used to like working on my cars. Now, I prefer handing my keys and CC to somebody else-let them deal with the frozen bolts and busted knuckles. And when I figure in all the price of tools, quality parts, etc. . . I don't think I ever saved anything.

I guess it is good the I got broken-looking at the newer models (where you can't even see a motor)-there is no way I could work on that without the specialized tools and training.

That said-I hated working on body hardware the most (i.e. dashboard, door handles, etc.) You never know when to yank or if you missed some hidden fastener. And you are always working in odd positions.
fixrman
From a broken heart to a hole in the sky
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join:2003-02-10
Hatboro, PA
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Heater core and evaporator replacements were usually never easy in most models. GM and Ford did have some that were a piece of cake to do, the rest tended to be real tedious. Anything with something called a "heater matrix" is generally going to be a problem.

Some of my least favorite: a 1965 Ford Mustang. I did this heater core when I was about 20 years old. I remember thinking what abject stupidity the designer suffered from with that setup. Next was an Audi Fox ~84?, where the geniuses there decided to rivet the dash in. G30 van w/A/C; part of the problem with that one was a lot of rust and lack of maintenance. Most Land Rover heater cores/evaporators.

Also replacing SRS harnesses could be a real challenge. Mostly did those on Land Rover Discoveries, but also 2 or 3 Range Rovers of various years. Leaving those in their parts bags made installation a lot easier.

LazMan
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join:2003-03-26
Beverly Hills, CA

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From "so hard it's stupid" category...

Replacing the alternator on a mid 90's Chev Lumina sedan.

Alternator should be considered a consumable part, IMO - so having to undo the motor mounts, jack up the front of the motor, remove the passenger side wheel and wheel well liner, to change the alternator through the fender - is just stupid.

Just another example of engineers and designers having no idea how to work on the monstrosities they built.

aurgathor
join:2002-12-01
Lynnwood, WA

aurgathor

Member

With some of the modern cars normally easy tasks can become very difficult -- like the rear spark plugs on my Corsica.

As for the alternator being a consumable part -- I don't think I fully agree with you on that one. They can certainly fail for a number of reasons, but at least with me, it doesn't seem to happen that often. The last one I changed was on my Bronco after 280,000 miles -- and that was an end of life wearout.
fixrman
From a broken heart to a hole in the sky
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join:2003-02-10
Hatboro, PA
·Verizon FiOS

fixrman

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That alternator he was talking about was on the 3400 engine. It was *the dumbest* location one could ever imagine for an alternator.

In fairness to engineers though, what they design may not work on an assembly line. so they are told to change the design. At least that is the story they tried to sell us.

The rear spark plugs on a Corsica were not hard for a GM tech early on, and service tricks eventually find their way to the aftermarket or sharp guys figure it out for themselves.

That is one thing flat-rate work teaches: resourcefulness.
NefCanuck
join:2007-06-26
Mississauga, ON

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said by aurgathor:

With some of the modern cars normally easy tasks can become very difficult -- like the rear spark plugs on my Corsica.

As for the alternator being a consumable part -- I don't think I fully agree with you on that one. They can certainly fail for a number of reasons, but at least with me, it doesn't seem to happen that often. The last one I changed was on my Bronco after 280,000 miles -- and that was an end of life wearout.

Try this "simple" one, especially if you have difficulty bending / stooping and no way to raise the car to do the job from underneath:

Changing the headlight bulbs on a Ford Fusion 1st gen.

An "access panel" with screws in each side of the inner fender liner that can only be accessed when the steering wheel is at absolute lock in either direction.

First time the one bulb popped I drove the car straight to the Ford dealer, handed them the keys and let them kill themselves with that asinine setup.

NefCanuck

Doctor Olds
I Need A Remedy For What's Ailing Me.
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join:2001-04-19
1970 442 W30

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1. Rear main bearing seal on 2 late 1980's model G20 6.2 diesel vans. Used a "sneaky pete" tool so I didn't have to drop crank or pull trans to replace upper half of crank seal though. It was still dirty work with that sooty diesel oil dripping on me while working on it.

2. Air tools (aka air chisel/air hammer) make butter of old mufflers and with the t-cutter it leaves the pipe undamaged almost every time. Before that it was a pain trying chisels by hand or using a chain cutter to section out pipes/mufflers.

Cho Baka
MVM
join:2000-11-23
there

Cho Baka

MVM

You just reminded me of doing an oil pan once on a 1982 Tercel.

Oily messy job...
I'll just be happy that it wasn't a diesel. That stuff stinks.

jrs8084
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join:2002-03-02
Statesville, NC

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Aren't working within the dog house in vans a particularly painful experience?

I recall some guy from Canada here with a camper that was trying to deal with a broken exhaust manifold lug bolt and people told him to save his time and pull the motor. I think he had some 35 hours into the project.
rody_44
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join:2004-02-20
Quakertown, PA

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I dont know if i would consider it the biggest PIA. But as far as the most disgusting i have all of you beat. I spent about a year doing nothing but replacing transmission and clutches along with rear main seals in BFI and Waste Management garbage trucks. My own little concrete pad out in the parking lot because everyone else bitched if i brought them in the shop. Hey what can i say, job paid 13 hours and i had it down to 3 and half. Not turning that down. Well i actually did end my mechanical career because of it. Dam engine fell when i was putting rear engine mounts in and took a few fingers. Another mechanic was nice enough to fish the fingers out so they could be reattached tho. After about 4 hours of soaking. They are still all deformed tho and i have no feeling in them. No feeling in the fingers comes in pretty handy when im driving nails tho.


aurgathor
join:2002-12-01
Lynnwood, WA

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That's a very interesting tool, and if there's a next time, I would probably have to get one.
aurgathor

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said by rody_44:

I spent about a year doing nothing but replacing transmission and clutches along with rear main seals in BFI and Waste Management garbage trucks. My own little concrete pad out in the parking lot because everyone else bitched if i brought them in the shop. Hey what can i say, job paid 13 hours and i had it down to 3 and half.

Practice is very important. When I changed my clutch at the first time, it took me almost a day, but it was much faster the 2nd and 3rd time. I also presume that you had better and more tools -- back then, I had only a single 2 1/4 ton trolley jack and did everything alone.
bobinny
join:2014-08-03
usa

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Replacing heater core in 1991 thunderbird.
Put everything back, and about 8 hours later it all worked like a charm.
Drove it 2 or 3 short trips and the new core sprung a leak at a solder joint.
Had to do the entire job over again the next day. It was an OEM core too!!

Did change the spark plugs in a friends 1970's something Lamborghini. Espada I think. What a difficult job.

Grumpy4
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join:2001-07-28
NW CT

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Two that I don't want to do:

Year 2000 2.2 liter GMC oil pan removal. 6 or 8 hours book if research is correct. Thankfully a used Ebay sourced Heli coil install kit to the rescue, with the help of constant compressed air into the engine during the install to (hopefully) blow out the metal chips. Atomized drain oil bath included at no extra charge, yet preferred over alternative. Repair still holding in oil & no leaks. {Insert car Gods prayer here.}

Year 2004 Honda CR V with a VTEC engine. AC compressor and recommended condenser change out. Book hours - 6 or 8 or 10 too many, which translates to 2 or 3 days for me the world famous where is that screwdriver / nut / bolt / younameit(?) Mr. Shade Tree.
Summer is almost over Dear...

One on the horizon, waiting patiently for my ritualistic knuckle blood on parts anointing ceremony - no heat to the floor in said 2000 GMC Sonoma. No apparent vacuum leaks under hood according to an ether spray gig. Perhaps a vacuum leak under (shivers up spine, head spin like "The Exorcist" girl) the dash, or an actuator? Jury still out. Commute now down from 912 miles per week to 20 miles per week. Probably wait 'til next Winter. See also -- Sorel boots - frozen feet, scalding upper body & sweat from upper vents only heat scenario.
I imagine the starving children in Africa have it far worse than that.
Maybe I should send them the pickup?
HarryH3
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join:2005-02-21

HarryH3

Premium Member

said by Grumpy4:

One on the horizon, waiting patiently for my ritualistic knuckle blood on parts anointing ceremony - no heat to the floor in said 2000 GMC Sonoma. No apparent vacuum leaks under hood according to an ether spray gig. Perhaps a vacuum leak under (shivers up spine, head spin like "The Exorcist" girl) the dash, or an actuator?

You won't find any vacuum motors in the HVAC on a rig that new. It will have electric actuators. Some are easy to get to, while others seem to have the vehicle built around them. Ain't all this new technology awesome?

As for PITA jobs, my most recent one was swapping in a new pitman arm on our '94 4WD Suburban. It can't be done with the steering box in the truck. The frame is in the way. It requires disconnecting the pitman arm, pressure hoses and steering shaft and then unbolting the box from the frame. Then maneuver the box out from under the truck (going UP through the engine compartment!) all while power steering fluid is getting everywhere.
telco_mtl
join:2012-01-06

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changing the heater resistor in any late 90s early 2000s gm W body, around here the tiny screws holding it in are rusted to hell.

Job i didnt do but was witness to, head gaskets on a 89 aerostar... involved removing the entire front suspension
ke4pym
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join:2004-07-24
Charlotte, NC

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Changing the oil filter in my 02 F-150 4x4.

Some genious (I know) decided it would be a great idea to put the filter just above the front diff where it is impossible to get your hands in to turn the filter. And, they also decided to make it just so that the filter tightens itself up.

Thank god for K&N filters with a nut on the end of them!

ObdH
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join:2003-06-11
Abilene, TX

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said by rody_44:

I dont know if i would consider it the biggest PIA. But as far as the most disgusting i have all of you beat. I spent about a year doing nothing but replacing transmission and clutches along with rear main seals in BFI and Waste Management garbage trucks. My own little concrete pad out in the parking lot because everyone else bitched if i brought them in the shop. Hey what can i say, job paid 13 hours and i had it down to 3 and half. Not turning that down. Well i actually did end my mechanical career because of it. Dam engine fell when i was putting rear engine mounts in and took a few fingers. Another mechanic was nice enough to fish the fingers out so they could be reattached tho. After about 4 hours of soaking. They are still all deformed tho and i have no feeling in them. No feeling in the fingers comes in pretty handy when im driving nails tho.

/winner

Mentat
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join:2001-02-25
Houston, TX

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I don't know if they based the fluid on putrescine or what, but doing rear end work on my 93 5.0 almost made me vomit. The differential fluid smells terrible and leaves its scent on your hands for hours.
fixrman
From a broken heart to a hole in the sky
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join:2003-02-10
Hatboro, PA

fixrman

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Differential additive is responsible for that sharp smell.

aurgathor
join:2002-12-01
Lynnwood, WA

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Those are the sulphur based EP (Extreme Pressure) additives.
You have to have them in the rear-end, though some oils are less smelly than others. Last time I used 75w-140 full synthetic, and it didn't smell as bad as the usual 80w-90.

Here is a little write-up on gear oils: »www.widman.biz/uploads/T ··· _oil.pdf

Mentat
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join:2001-02-25
Houston, TX

Mentat

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Yeah, I'm familiar with them now but at the time it was like a slap in the face and totally unexpected.
rody_44
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join:2004-02-20
Quakertown, PA

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Yea i had it down, one trip with all tools needed laying next to trash truck and the least amount of breaths possible. More than once i would be gagging and a maggot would fall in my mouth. Not pleasant at all but dam did the job pay well. In the end tho haste is what took me down. They needed the truck by 7 and i dint start till 5am. Around 630 on buttoning it up i pryed the motor over to line up the motor mounts and pryed it right off the jack with my right hand between the mount and the frame. 7000 lbs took fingers like they were not even there. Never even looked at it, wrapped hand in rag, got out and went to supervisor and said i have a problem. Didnt even know the fingers were totally gone till we took the rag off. Yes them trash trucks truly are loaded with maggots, especially on the driveline. The smell is awful on a hot day. Dont even think about parking it in the shop. Nobody gets anything done.