Dewalt DWS780. Cutting 5.25 baseboard. Vertical against the fence at 90 degrees the difference between top and bottom is ~1/8". Same thing happens at 45 degree either side. If cutting a 45 degree when the piece is flat on the table and the saw is beveled, the cut winds up bowed. The piece is clamped to the table and I don't feel it move with the hand. The slider is locked with the top screw and the little latch that keeps it stationary. Speed of cut doesn't seem to matter.
When checking everything with a square, the fence is aligned, the blade is aligned. The blade in use is the original dewalt blade that came with the saw and hasn't really been used (was planning to do this project about 6 months ago, but life got in the way:) )
Am I missing something, or should I just consider taking the saw to the nearest dewalt service center?
it looks square or is square? even a hair off with a small square can put the end way out. a Buddy of mine had the same problem as you and when he took the time to go thru the setup properly it made perfect cuts.
also check to see if the detent catch is worn, it could be letting the saw wobble/move some as you pull down. you want smooth action, no side to side movement at all.
it looks square or is square? even a hair off with a small square can put the end way out. a Buddy of mine had the same problem as you and when he took the time to go thru the setup properly it made perfect cuts.
I think I'll pick up a smaller square. The one I have barely fits under the blade guard.
also check to see if the detent catch is worn, it could be letting the saw wobble/move some as you pull down. you want smooth action, no side to side movement at all.
The saw is brand new, it's just been standing in the corner. I tried shaking it side to side and the detents are holding firm. I also put the lock down even when in the detent.
I had a similar issue with much shorter baseboard. But it was because the back of the baseboard was contoured so that the top and bottom of the baseboard were about 1/8 proud of the field of the baseboard. When I put it up against the fence the top portion overhung and the piece wasnt vertical. I fixed it by screwing a piece of one-by to the fence to increase the height. I have no clue on bowing issue though.
How are you cutting the wood? I was taught that to cut on a slider you keep the blade up as you come towards yourself, then bring the blade down and cut the wood while pushing away from yourself. Basically the back of the blade does the cutting, not the front, and not by plunging down from above. I don't know if it's true, but supposedly it's more accurate that way. I do know that if I cut by plunging down from above the blade has a tendency to flex to one side. Also some blades are much more prone to flexing than others...
If you cut with the backside of the blade you would have to cut with the backside of the wood facing up. That makes everything backwards and really complicates some cuts.
I do know that if I cut by plunging down from above the blade has a tendency to flex to one side. Also some blades are much more prone to flexing than others...
That may be it. I'll try this later in the week to see if that works. At the very least that does make sense on the flexing part.
I apologize, after rereading my post I glossed over an important part. I pull the saw towards me with the blade up, but still down enough that it makes contact with the wood. It's just a score line in the wood no more than 1/8" deep at most. Once the blade is clear of the wood I bring the blade all the way down, and then push it back through the piece.
You might try verifying that the saw is square using a two foot piece of that base. Cut it (vertical) in half with no bevel/miter. Also check that prior to cutting that the bottom of the baseboard is flat against the base of the saw the entire width.
I understand what kerf as a word means, but why would it apply here? I'm not missing a uniform 1/8th, I'm getting a crooked cut. If I was mismeasuring by that width, yes I can see that I wasn't accounting for kerf, but the top overhangs the bottom by 1/8th, so unless there is such a thing as dynamic kerf, I think it's a saw alignment issue.
Thank you for the video and giving me the idea to get a small square instead of a bulky monster I was using.
The saw was just a smidge out of alignment in every direction. Wasn't really noticable on the square I was using, but became very easy to see on a small one. After an hour of fiddling with it, the cuts are much better.
As someone mentioned, it's the width of the blade. 1/8th " sounded suspiciously like the kerf of the blade. Common issue. It was for me. Looks like O.P. has ruled that out. Maybe try a different blade.
Bring that thing back to where you bought it. No reason in the world you have square up a mechanical saw, he is not wooden miter box. When the people at the counter ask what is wrong with it......just tell them 90 degrees doesn't 88 degrees in china. Maybe it is the planetary shift
First thing you should do with any saw you buy is check for square and adjust as needed. It's in the instructions for the Dewalt table saw I just bought as well as any others I have owned.
He's not talking about a table saw, a Miter saw has preset settings that should not have to be adjusted out of the box. The problem is all this made in china crap needs to get to sent right back to them instead making "adjustments"