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diddypc
join:2011-07-07

diddypc

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[Roofing] Metal roofing question

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We've roofed the new mud room on our house. I've made a slight mistake on measurements for the new metal roofing. We installed a drip edged along the eves but the roof panels are coming up 1/8" from the edge of the drip rail. I measured from the ridge to the edge of the sheathing and didn't compensate the drip rail bend brings the edge of the roof out about another 1/2". So again I'm 1/8" back from the edge of the drip rail. I'm also using the manufacturers foam closure strips at the end of the roof panels. Any thoughts of wind driven rain getting up to far under the roof panel and past the drip rail flashing? The drip rail extends back underneath the roof panel 2 5/8". My screws land about 1" back from the edge. I'm attaching some pics of the drip rail I used.

toby
Troy Mcclure
join:2001-11-13
Seattle, WA

toby

Member

[Roofing] Re: Metal roofing question

I personally would order new panels as the roof is shorter than you think.

The roof panels are meant to go past the end of the drip edge, then bent back underneath, locking into the drip edge without using any screws. That way, no holes are created.

Where I live, we get high winds and without bending over the edge and locking in, the roof would be taken off.

This picture here shows the wrong way to do it.
»www.snoshield.com/wp-con ··· seam.jpg

what the
join:2014-06-28
usa

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NM

ttiiggy
Premium Member
join:2001-03-27
Bozeman, MT

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Re: [Roofing] Metal roofing question

What kind of metal roofing did you get?
Standing Sam? Delta Rib? Corrugated?

Did you put it on already?
Top finish usually gives room to slide it down.
suggy2004
join:2004-01-07
Conshohocken, PA

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On a side note : Nice AT-AT

I have the Millennium Falcon
diddypc
join:2011-07-07

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to ttiiggy
said by ttiiggy:

What kind of metal roofing did you get?
Standing Sam? Delta Rib? Corrugated?

Did you put it on already?
Top finish usually gives room to slide it down.

It's Pro-Rib from Midwest Manufacturing. Yes it is on already.
diddypc

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said by suggy2004:

On a side note : Nice AT-AT

I have the Millennium Falcon

The Millenium Falcon is on the shelf above the AT-AT

robbin
Mod
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX

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It may be easier to have a custom drip flashing made. I would consider that option also.
diddypc
join:2011-07-07

diddypc

Member

Robin,

Could you elaborate on your thoughts with that? I guess are you considering the same problem I'm worried about with wind driven water getting up underneath the roof panel?

robbin
Mod
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX

robbin

Mod

Have a flashing made that has a smaller drip profile to correct the 1/8" issue and also have it made to go back under the roofing 6" or more. Seems like it would solve both problems.
diddypc
join:2011-07-07

1 edit

diddypc

Member

It is a small roof for a mud room. It's only about 6' long on each side. As mentioned by another user earlier I do have alot of room with the ridge cap after looking at it last night. Anyone see any issue if I remove the screws and slide each panel down a couple inches and go through the same holes on the panels? Of course I'd have to line the holes up where each panel overlaps the other. This is 7/16" OSB so going and inch or so down shouldn't be a problem I would imagine? But this method would leave some screw holes closer to the bottom of the edge.
diddypc

1 edit

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After thinking about this, this option looks to be the easiest but....the drip edge is screwed down underneath the roof panels so I'd have take all the roof up anyways which I really really would like to avoid.

ttiiggy
Premium Member
join:2001-03-27
Bozeman, MT

1 edit

ttiiggy

Premium Member

If you did it right...

The drip edge (eave flashing) should have been put on first. Just lightly screwed or nailed as it should get held on later with the finishing screws as you finish the roof panels.

Then the underlayment (tarpaper, felt, ice-guard...) should go over the drip edge on the bottom edge of the roof.
The drip edge should be over the underlayment if you put it on the sides.

You are trying to guide any water up and out and away from the sheathing.

If you used sticky underlayment, it will be a problem to change the drip edge.

If you just put a flat piece of flashing metal between the drip edge that you have and the roof panel, it would probably cure any rain that gets driven up only that far, but any water that has gotten under the panel anywhere above can will get under that piece of flashing. ...but the water will still be on top of the underlayment.

You did say that you used the manufacturers foam closure strips. That should seal it. You could probably get by just leaving it 1/8" short. It is just one more place to let water coming off the roof get onto the drip edge and maybe run down and get on the fascia.

If you decide that you need to fix it, the easiest looks like it would be to take all the panels off and move them down.
You did say it wasn't very big...



»bridgersteel.com/installation/