NJxxxJon
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join:2005-10-22
00000 |  reply to rockotman
Re: lose of coolant/white smoke from exhaust/ cant be
Yes Indeed. And its "chugging" while running.... |
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Doctor Olds
I Need A Remedy For What's Ailing Me.
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join:2001-04-19
1970 442 W30
clubs:
| How far did you drive it when it was overheating? Your description is that of a blown head gasket.
Blown head gaskets happen to all engine sizes. Overheating happens to all engine sizes.
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Doctor Olds
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NJxxxJon
something good. or your mom.
Premium
join:2005-10-22
00000 | Oh i relize that can happen to all cars. HOWEVER, the car is still running, and the oil is in great conditon...the manifold of the exhaust can not be replace by its own to correct this problem ? ? |
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mattmag
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NW Illinois
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| Re: lose of coolant/white smoke from exhaust/ cant
Head gasket, cracked head also possible. You've been given good advice, and the longer you drive it the more damage can occur.
Best to get it to a shop and have it repaired properly ASAP.
Coolant *will* eventually get into the oil, and any amount at all is very toxic to engine bearings.
-Matt |
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rockotman
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1 edit | reply to NJxxxJon
Re: lose of coolant/white smoke from exhaust/ cant be
The exhaust manifold does not typically have coolant through it. The intake manifold typically does. If you are getting coolant into the exhaust, but not into the block itself (based on your description of the oil you are not), then the leak is either at the head gasket interface to the intake manifold, or at the head gasket interface to the block, in such a location that it is spitting coolant directly into the cyliner. When the latter happens, exhaust pressure from ignition will typcially cause more problems with the gasket, to the point where you also start leaking coolant from between the head and the block, with it eventually falling onto the ground.
The only way to really find out for sure is to pull the head; at that point you may as well stick a gasket in. The fact that you say it is chugging is an indication that you are losing coolant at a brisk pace. It ends up in the cylinder, either via intake valves or via direct route to the cylinder, and it is wreaking havoc with the ignition process - either no ignition, or very weak ignition. Do you notice a loss of power? Lose one cylinders worth of ignition in a four cylinder engine, and I think that you would.
If it is just a small leak at the intake manifold interface, you could always try a little Bars Leak. Worst case is that you will still need to replace the head gasket, get the head checked/planed, and do a cooling system flush. Best case is that the Bars Leak will seal the small leak and you will only have to do a cooling system flush down the road. The fact that it is chugging makes me think that the void is too big for Bars Leak to be of any help, or that it is in fact a cracked head as Mattmag points out, though.
Again, what is the year and model of the car?
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NJxxxJon
something good. or your mom.
Premium
join:2005-10-22
00000
| this guy is a 1988 Chevy Nova (the aka toyota corolla) ....ok well to pull the engine head off is going to be 100's! of bucks correct? i had a dodge shadowing the with the same damn problem...and if the engine needs work this early i know its going to need to be worked on again in 2 years.....crap this sucks |
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TKJunkMail
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Avalon, NJ
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1 edit | Another, albeit unlikely possibility:
In some cases a badly smoking engine can be traced to a faulty vacuum modulator valve on the transmission. A porous diaphragm on this unit will allow the transmission fluid to be sucked into the engine. This gives the appearance of the engine burning the transmission fluid. This problem will also lead to transmission failure as the fluid level drops in the transmission. Though I don't think newer cars can even have this problem, it did happen to me about 30 years ago. I was leaving a cloud of white smoke behind me until I got to a repair garage. But in that 2 minutes I got the 1 finger salute more times than I could count.  Replaced the valve and the problem stopped.
This is easy to check. Just check level of transmission fluid.
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NJxxxJon
something good. or your mom.
Premium
join:2005-10-22
00000 | REALLY the TRANNY can do that too? ? ? .....how many damn gaskets would my little car have anyway guys? my friend said OVER 5.....thats a lot...
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Doctor Olds
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1970 442 W30
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1 edit | reply to TKJunkMail
A leaking Automatic Transmission Vacuum Modulator Valve (from a tear in the rubber diaphragm that operates the valve) generally produces a thick and cloudy white smoke only on deceleration due to the engine vacuum being at its highest levels and volumes. During driving and idling the ATVMVs usually do not smoke since the engine vacuum load is much lower in the engine due to the throttle plates being partially open or at low RPMs when idling. In other words ATVMVs usually only smoke when the throttle plates are closed and the engine is decelerating at higher than idle RPMs, but at idle ATVMV will not normally smoke since there isn't a strong enough vacuum signal to pull Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) up into the manifold from the transmission pan.
It's very unlikely unless this is a 20 year old or older car that a ATVMV is even used on the transmission at all. I say this based on my experience and on this article's text below:
»www.asashop.org/autoinc/sept2000/mech.htm
quote:
Why have I gone into the explanation of a vacuum modulator system that most transmissions don't even use anymore and some never did use? Take a look at Figure 2 for the answer. The vacuum modulator may be gone, but something has taken its place and the rest of the pressure boost system functions practically the same. The age of electronics has arrived but many systems perform in much the same way they always have. The electronic pressure control unit may be called a force motor, pressure control solenoid or some other name, but most of them perform the same function as a vacuum modulator. Instead of vacuum, they are controlled by electrical current.
However a coolant leak into the combustion chamber will produce a steamy smoke (with a burnt sweet smell different from ATF and not as thick) at all times the engine is running and the volume gets worse under acceleration (the opposite of an leaking Automatic Transmission Vacuum Modulator Valve).
The quick test would be to pull the plugs keeping them in order and the cylinder with a problem will have a very clean plug (from the coolant burning) compared to the other plugs that don't have coolant on them.
As for older cars that do have a Automatic Transmission Vacuum Modulator Valve the quick test is to pull the rubber vacuum line off at the valve at the transmission and check the inside of the hose. The hose should be dry since it is only meant to carry a vacuum signal. However, if ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) pours or drips out of the rubber hose then that is proof positive that the rubber diaphragm has torn inside the valve and that it needs replacement.
Regards,
Doctor Olds
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