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WRTP54G-ER JTAG Unlock using windows

Unbuffered Jtag cable used with this software package under windows

Great Job!
Will try it later.

Thanks.

reply to voiplover

15 watt iron should be fine.
Multimeter is to check your leads and your connections. Troubleshooting can be a pain without them.
Those are sockets. I guess they might work for you.
The headers I was taking about look like the serial header (J1) that is already installed on the board.
If you can spare an extra buck, I would recommend picking up a package of 1/2 watt resistors for opening up the holes. Maybe even a 1 watt???

Tks. I'll PM you.

Soldering headers to your wrtp54g
Ok. There are a lot of ways to solder connections to the pcb board.
3 things to avoid:
burning yourself or your house.
Heating up the lands so hot that you damage the unit
Flicking solder into your eye. It happens!

I highly recommend doing all of your soldering from the back of the board where possible.
I didn't use headers because it was just to easy for me to use 1/2 watt resistors as pins.
I did my soldering on a stainless steel cook top with plenty of light. Some times a kitchen sink works great. Plus it is fairly safe. Don't worry about spilling hot solder - It wont stick.
I simply placed a heavy pot on the cook top and leaned the board up against it, giving me an easy shot and clear view.
I heated up the iron for a few minutes. Took the first resistor and placed the ceramic part in a pair of looking pliers. I held them up to the first hole so that the resistor had a strait shot in. Then I held the tip of the soldering iron to the solder filled hole (on the back of the board) until it started to melt. Then I moved the tip of the iron to just the tip of the resistor as I put pressure on the hole. The heat from the tip of the resistor melted the solder and it slid through the hole. I slid enough through to use as a pin for the header. As soon as it was far enough through, I removed the iron and held the resistor in place till it cooled. I never had to add any solder. yrmv.
I used small snips (small dikes) to cut off the exess resistor on the back of the board, but you may want to use that for your connection.
One resistor made 6 pins for me.
I repeated this for all but 11 & 13. After they had cured for at least a half hour, I straitened out the pins so that they would fit into the ribbon cable connector of the jtag cable. I then plugged holes 11 & 13 of the connector with tooth picks as a safety measure.

You can use a solder removing pencil instead of a resistor or paper clip... And real headers may even look better, but with the holes full of solder...

I hope this helps.

reply to voiplover
Thx for instructions.

reply to voiplover
Have any one backup the whole chip 8MB
I wonder how long will it take to backup whole chip

Thanks

reply to voiplover
Any chance this will work with the RT31p2? I think the two units are similar, but without the wireless. Your thoughts Pls.

Should work.

Since you are going to backup whatever you are going to flash, then there is no risk. Try it.

reply to hughg

How about wrtp54g for Vonage using this method?

said by accjr_gizmo:

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From the open source kernel for the WRTP54G I got the flash address:

#define CS0_BASE 0xb0000000
#define CS0_SIZE CONF_FLASH_SZ

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reply to mazilo
Mazilo:

If I am no wrong I guess the same memory location is used to store provider information for both Earthlink and Vonage devices.

As I understand the WRTP54G-NA firmware from Linksys is working in both Earthlink and Vonage devices. Probably both devices use the same hardware architecture no matter what procesor is inside the devices.

I did find that after completing the unlock process that I was able to upload the official linksys wrtp54g_fw_3.1.17_US.img NA firmware to the wrtp54g.
»www.linksys.com/servlet/Satellit···rWrapper

Still $39.99 at fry's; Outpost.com
»shop1.outpost.com/product/474051···_RSLT_PG

WINDOWS 98 USERS