Kylemaul
Lovin' My Firefox 1.5.x
Premium
join:2001-03-30
North Port, FL
clubs: | reply to elless
Re: Adding trim to untrimmed drywall doorways
Sounds like it might be time to invest in a good blade for your table saw. |
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wth
Premium
join:2002-02-20
Iowa City, IA | reply to elless
If you do this project on any doorways entering the kitchen, make sure they would still be wide enough to get a refrigerator in/out, since a lot of the side by sides are alot deeper than the old style top freezer models. |
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elless
Premium
join:2003-08-22
Poughquag, NY
| reply to Quiglag
OK, so I did the work, and here are my conclusions:
I worked on one doorway/pass-thru myself. Using my not-so-great table saw, I ripped three 8-foot 1x6 stock down to the maximum jamb width (it varied almost 3/8 inch around the permimeter of the jamb, due to the metal edge and mud on top of the drywall) and shimmed all. When I nailed up the casing, of course parts of the casing were up to 1/4 inch off of the wall surface, while other parts of the casing were flush. So the casing had to be shimmed, and heavily caulked to make it look right. Took me about 8 hours to get all done on just 1 (out of 4) doorways.
Ripping an 8 foot 1x6 is not easy with a cheap table saw, and this took a few tries (1 ruined 1x6) to get right. Tough to get a precise edge on such a long cut.
Unless you have a good table saw, I think it will be better to cut off the drywall, back to the stud where the wall is a standard width, and buy a pre-cut (4 9/16th inch ?), pre-primed jamb from Lowes for about $12, shim/nail this in place, and apply the casing.
I cried uncle on the remaining 3 doorways and had a carpenter do the work for about $50 labor per doorway. He had a better table and miter saw (and skill!), and could back-cut the casing to be flush despite the uneven surfaces. |
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Greg_Z
Premium
join:2001-08-08
Springfield, IL
 ·Comcast
| reply to elless
Then that is considered a Pass Through. Adding the trim may involve removing the Gypsum Board from the inside edge, otherwise it will not appear correct. I can see doing what you are thinking about as protection, but keep in mind, that you are narrowing the opening by at least an inch, and can be noticeable, especially if you have to move items through that doorway (ie wheelchair). |
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elless
Premium
join:2003-08-22
Poughquag, NY
| reply to Greg_Z
said by Greg_Z  :Are these doorways, or pass throughs into hallways, and other rooms? If they are pass-throughs or archways, you will have to do something other then just put trim up on the opposite sides to make it look good, otherwise it will look odd and out of place. I agree that just "trim up on the opposite sides" might look odd; I plan on installing a jamb on the inside of the opening with a frame/casing/trim (whatever you call it) around the perimeters of the opening. Imagine a normal interior doorframe with the door and doorstop removed. |
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Greg_Z
Premium
join:2001-08-08
Springfield, IL
·Comcast
| reply to elless
Are these doorways, or pass throughs into hallways, and other rooms? If they are pass-throughs or archways, you will have to do something other then just put trim up on the opposite sides to make it look good, otherwise it will look odd and out of place. |
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elless
Premium
join:2003-08-22
Poughquag, NY | reply to Quiglag
OK, many thanks for all the advice. I'll try one doorway the easy way - leave the drywall - and see what results. |
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BurntCricket
Gotta Do What Ya Gotta Do
Premium
join:2000-09-02
Here
clubs:
·RoadRunner Cable
| reply to elless
If you cut away the drywall there will be nothing holding it in that spot ... just nail over the drywall.
All the corners should have studs and you are nailing to them not the drywall.
Are you just adding trim or adding a door/doorway frame ?
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Quiglag
God is Love
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join:2004-09-19
Ontario, CA
 ·SharkSpace
| reply to elless
OK after rereading everything I think I understand everything.
You do not need to remove the drywall at all, but you can. In most of the new construction we do, we are going over drywall. But I think that is mostly because we are going over metal studs.
If you go right over the drywall, it might be straight enough for you to get away with not using any shims.
You will probably want to use 3/4" for the jamb, but you could get away with 1/2". Use some Liquid Nails on both the jamb, and both sides of the shims if you use them, and on the casing. And be sure to glue your joints. The standard is to leave a 1/4" reveal on the jamb, or match whatever the rest of your house is, if its different.
Good Luck.
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Quiglag
God is Love
Premium
join:2004-09-19
Ontario, CA
·SharkSpace
| reply to elless
Are there doors in the openings or is it just a finish opening? A picture would really help.
I install woodwork, cabinets, doors, etc for a living. So once I understand what it is you want, I should be able to help.
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My Website & Gallery |
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Ken
Premium,MVM
join:2003-06-16
Brownsburg, IN
| reply to elless
said by elless :So I'll be shimming on top of the drywall too? Yes that is what you would do. Like I said the only downside is that the doorway would be smaller, I don't see how strength would be affected at all.
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sdgthy
@optonline.net | reply to elless
AskTOH did a segment on that this year (episode 606). They left the drywall in place and nailed it off into the studs. |
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elless
Premium
join:2003-08-22
Poughquag, NY
| reply to Ken
said by Ken :I'm a little unsure of what you are planning. My first thought was that you were going to install a jamb on the inside of the opening and put up casing around the perimeter. Thanks for reading my mind, that is exactly right - a jamb on the inside of the opening with a frame/casing around the perimeter.
I know just enough to know I have to shim the jambs plumb if I remove the drywall, but that seemed a whole lot more stable than installing the jambs on top of the drywall. Especially after nailing the frame/casing to the jambs.
As the earlier poster noted, the drywall has corner beads. And if the studs arent straight, then the existing drywall and corner beads arent either. So I'll be shimming on top of the drywall too?
I was hoping to find someone who has gone the easier route, and left the drywall in place, with some success/tricks if possible? |
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vapochilled
Premium
join:2004-11-23
Macungie, PA | reply to elless
Our house was the same when we moved in. I nailed through into the frame. No reason to cut the drywall out |
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hurfy
Premium
join:2002-08-06
Spokane, WA | reply to elless
Good spot for a pic or two perhaps?
I need to do the same for my front door but can't figure out how to nail the trim to the brick wall  |
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Ken
Premium,MVM
join:2003-06-16
Brownsburg, IN
| reply to elless
I'm a little unsure of what you are planning. My first thought was that you were going to install a jamb on the inside of the opening and put up casing around the perimeter. However after reading your post a couple times, I'm not quite sure that's what you mean. Is that what you were planning? I kind of got the impression maybe you just want to put up the casing, and leave the drywall on the inside of the opening.
Assuming you want to put up jamb and casing, I really only see one reason to remove the drywall and that would be that the finished opening is going to end up being at least 1" smaller, than if you had removed the drywall. If you do remove the drywall, the jamb would not sit directly on the stud anyway. It should be spaced out on shims to make it straight (studs are never straight).
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Dennis
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Algonquin, IL
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| reply to elless
The only extra step you might make is throwing some 1"x4" against the drywall (ala door jamb) and then drop some nails into it all.
But i don't see any reason you can't do what you originally suggested, except the drywall corner might have a bit of a rounded edge and look off.
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elless
Premium
join:2003-08-22
Poughquag, NY
| My house has a few doorways between rooms that are not trimmed out - they only have drywall wrapping the doorway edges. I would like to add trim pieces to frame the doorway, to match the window trim in the room.
My question is: Can I just place the trim pieces right on top of the drywall that wraps the door opening, and nail them to the underlying framing - driving the nails right through the drywall? Or should I bite the bullet and use a reciprocating saw to remove the drywall around the doorway edge, exposing the framing, before nailing up the trim?
I have this feeling that nailing finishing nails through the new trim, then through the plasterboard will leave the final assembly somewhat loosely attached to the wall.
If it matters, I only want to install paintable trim pieces, not some fine finished/stained trim.
Has anyone ever done this? Your thoughts? |
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