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TigerLord
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| Small home studio...
I've spent enough on rentals and to know I love doing that kind of work to know I should get my own little setup. I've repaid my camera body and my most two expansive lenses already through contracts, as well as most accessories, so I can invest some more 
The other day I don't know why I complained about the sync speed of the K10D, since after looking at some of my work, I noticed it was indeed at 1/180 on manual...
From AlienBee:
2xB800 Black Studio Flash
2xSet of 6 Color Gels
1xFoldable Large Softbox (32in. x 40in.)
1x10º Honeycomb Grid
2x13-foot Heavy Duty Stand
2x48-inch Shoot-Thru Umbrella
From B&H:
2x PW
1x Sekonic Digital Radio Transmitter Module
1x Sekonic L-358 Flash Master
This was my starter's kit and something I was gonna pull the trigger on it this week... 1 large softbox for inside work as main, umbrella if I go outside (plus I can use them with both my AF540). I got the 10º grid for eye highlights or hair... I was wondering if you would change anything? I could save a lot getting Cybersync rather than PW... but I don't feel like having a wire run from the meter to my camera whenever I need it, I'd find it very clumsy. I like the fact the Sekonic will work wirelessly with the PW...
Obviously 2x AB800 will suffice for main + 2nd light, but I was wondering if I could use my AF540 for the backdrop? I was thinking an AF540 set at 24mm or near on manual,say at 1/4 power, would be sufficient to light it gently (and even gel it to get some cool colors out the backdrop). I could get an AB400 but since I already have the AF540 (and is more expansive than the AB800 even!) will it work, or will I have to gel it?
Reason why I'm getting AB800 over extra AF540s like a real strobist would do is A) power B) ease of use... AB800 are fully operational already for modifiers with a hole for umbrellas, and the AB softboxes attach to it easily C) If I get AF540s I'll need stands + bogen clamps, etc. D) plus no modeling lights on them... E) finally, AB800s are cheaper!
What do you guys think? Is this a good starter's kit for a small home studio, am I missing vital or important modifiers? I'll use DIY Gobos btw...I was considering getting the stands at Calumet , as well as two frames to use as big GOBOs or reflectors... I really love high key shot on a white background and really want to work on it more, but last time I tried the spill in the lens was too important not to notice as I didnt have GOBOs to use then.
Thanks for the helps! | |
portrait
@tmodns.net
| you don't mention what the subjects will be; the lighting will be different depending on portrait or product photos.
as you have noted, for portraits, two big white umbrellas are nice, or one bigger one, for just one eye catchlight.
the softest lighting comes from flashing through the white fabric, but you lose 3 stops that way. bouncing from the inside of the white umbrella loses less light, but is less soft. bouncing from a silver umbrella loses even less light, but is even less soft.
with two umbrellas, a hair light, and a background light, you will like to keep it simple yet coordinated, so consider having all flashes the same type, for less thinking under pressure, whatever you pick.
or one power pack with four heads.
if you are going to flash through the white umbrellas, you don't really need the softbox.
another alternative is to flash through two white sheets for the front lighting. a little cheaper, but acts like a giant softbox.
with lossy soft white through-lighting, you will use all the power you have to get to f16, which is another reason to get a set of four 800's or ?
recycle times also will be faster if you get more powerful flashes, important for portraits.
and don't forget various black, grey etc. front reflectors, which you probably have already made for yourself.
to get the eye irises wide open, you will be modeling with dim incandescents, then the flash will catch them open.
if that is not important to you, you might consider HMI lighting, which are just strobe tubes that fire very fast continuously, but has the advantage that you are shooting with the identical "modeling" lighting.
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for still lifes, product photography, a white table is important.
that can be anything, even a regular table with a white sheet draped over it, or a white sheet of plastic, or a real swoop table with translucent white plastic, lit from underneath and behind.
for product photos you can work with only two lights, but the fancy tables will use all four.
gradient backgrounds, in color and in greys, are useful.
for products that plug in, that must be shown operating, you just cut an x slot in the background for the cord to go through invisibly.
if the lights are not powerful enough to get to f16 in one flash, you use multiple flashes, 2x, 4x, 8x, and many flash meters have the capability to measure multiples and/or to calculate them.
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sinar and broncolor have informative lighting information
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and in general, for even soft-lighting, your lighting setup should be three times the size of the subject.
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consider renting a full set for a week before you make your decisions; most pro dealers will credit the rent to your purchase.
| |
TigerLord
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1 edit | reply to TigerLord
Well thanks for that post!
The main attraction will be portraiture, candids, couples, nudes. I've been browsing many galleries lately (here are a few inspirational pics I was looking at from a gallery I was just looking at):
1- »gallery.photo.net/photo/7197891-md.jpg
2- »gallery.photo.net/photo/7039858-md.jpg
3- »gallery.photo.net/photo/7104967-md.jpg
4- »gallery.photo.net/photo/7385080-md.jpg
5- »gallery.photo.net/photo/6507890-md.jpg
6- »gallery.photo.net/photo/6565854-md.jpg
7- »gallery.photo.net/photo/6559096-md.jpg
8- »gallery.photo.net/photo/6669069-lg.jpg
9- »gallery.photo.net/photo/7039754-md.jpg
10- »gallery.photo.net/photo/7039751-md.jpg
11- »gallery.photo.net/photo/7039756-md.jpg
I think you see the style I'm aiming for. I've looked at many lighting books (like Grecco's Celeb Lighting) to start working on light setups I drafted and what I want to try.
I've had lights at my disposal once with the entire PW and meter shabang once. For an entire week-end, I was shooting friends, or friends of friends. I had little room for experiment so I used known and easy setups I knew would work (like Butterfly lighting) but when I get my own I'll be able to experiment a lot.
Living in QC gives me the honor of having many close hot looking friends who happen to love photography and love to get their photo taken. Many have already agreed to come at home for an entire afternoon of indoor and outdoor shooting so I can learn and experiment.
I don't expect to be as good as the above photographer but with a few months of serious practice (I took a year off medschool to rest so have a lot of time) it's not impossible!
Eventually a Ringflash to get that awesome catchlight is something I'd like to get, but not a priority. Also, why would I shoot at f/16? That's monstruously high no? At 1/180 with f8 unless the backdrop is white I get total blackout... f11 should be the highest I'll ever have to go. Reading strobist and after some self experimentation, I found that shoot-thru umbrellas work best and is why I chose them over reflective ones.
I'll mostly be shooting with my loved 77mm FA Limited lens, which is simply gorgeous, and possibly the 50-135mm if my father finds it sub-800$ in Tokyo when he gets there next week!
Finally, I am frustrated since I could not find anywhere where they sell human size GOBO or panel reflectors. I LOVE B&W (especially for baby shots) as well as high key shots, and 2 black reflector panels to block spill coming in the lens from lighting the backdrop is essential...
I saw some at B&H for 179,00 for frame alone but I thought it was ridiculous to pay such a high price for a frame and a piece of black fabric. surely there is a DIY method out there ? | |
Exit
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Canada | reply to TigerLord
If you want to make black cards just grab a sheet of foam core from your local arts and crafts store. You can get a 5x10 sheet for under $10. | |
TigerLord
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1 edit | I was talking more like a 4x6 FEET GOBO/reflector/flag frame!
»www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7l-uLyO···=related
Like here, at 2:20 | |
portrait
@tmodns.net
| reply to TigerLord
f16 is forgiving.
the model can move, the camera can move, but the extra depth keeps focus anyway.
less thinking...
more time to communicate with the model.
for the same reason, despite the loss of megapixels,
keep empty space around the model, so when the model moves, you don't have to repoint the camera.
you will learn to standardize the light distances.
put both main umbrellas always at e.g. 6', which you will have already tested to always give you f11 or whatever.
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skip the odd ring flash and the butterfly-shadow-under-the-nose lighting; soft lighting gives a younger look.
do always use a hair light.
try lenses in the 200-400 mm range too, which make the models look thinner, but require longer working distance.
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for frames, regular pvc pipe and fittings are adequate.
use tie-wraps to hold the fabric.
the home stores also have paint roller extendable 20' handles and adjustable shower rods and pool-tool handles made of aluminum, which are quick fixes if you want cheap supports, easy to cut and drill. | |
grendal
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1 edit | reply to TigerLord
»www.zarias.com/?p=71
read the link above, you can get black/white/colored background from all the same setup. It's a pretty well written blog w/ tons of sample pictures.
last page of the blog tutorial mentions a flickr group of other people's pics with a similar setup.
»www.flickr.com/groups/seamlessandcyc/pool/
very in line with the type of shots you want to do. | |
TigerLord
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| said by grendal  :» www.zarias.com/?p=71read the link above, you can get black/white/colored background from all the same setup. It's a pretty well written blog w/ tons of sample pictures. last page of the blog tutorial mentions a flickr group of other people's pics with a similar setup. » www.flickr.com/groups/seamlessandcyc/pool/very in line with the type of shots you want to do. Thanks for that ! I was also pointed to »www.oilandwaterwerks.com/tutoria···ome.html , apparently he knows his stuff. But I'd prefer not to have a list of pre-concept lighting setups not to be biased in my experimentation...
Also I haven't had much success getting help on some forums, I think my post was too long. I would have rather bought 1x softbox and 1x strobe, but Paul C. Buff even though ships to Canada, it's 150$ each time. Plus I get 10-15% off accessories if I buy it all at once... in the end that multiple 100$ saved when purchased all at once! | |
TigerLord
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| reply to grendal
That was amazing. I read through it 4 times and is just splendid info. Sure beats any books I bought and read twice over in my library! | |
grendal
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| said by TigerLord :That was amazing. I read through it 4 times and is just splendid info. Sure beats any books I bought and read twice over in my library! very versatile setup, allows for a lot of creativity. | |
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