how-to block ads
|
Beezler
Premium
join:2005-03-17
Allen, TX
| reply to Beezler
Re: My Structured Cable Wiring Project and Home Network!
NAS Device | 
All items connected and running. | 
another picture of all devices up and running |
Other than that, I thought of running a server (small like a shuttle sytem) that I could run without the monitor and a separate NAS device (possibly RAID 5 with hot swap SATA drives). In either case, the units will need to run quiet.
Now that the printer is installed, I can see that I will need to build a printer stand and make it so it could also store a couple of reams of paper as well. But for now, the network is complete and other than getting an electrician out here someday to take care of a couple of outlets, I'm done with this room!
My next project will be tackling an office upstairs. I haven't shopped for any furniture and if anyone has suggestions either online or in the DFW area of any good/reasonable priced or used office furniture, I will give them a look.
The printer I have for upstairs is an all-in-one (fax/printer/scanner/copier) color laser printer. I still haven't even unboxed it yet but hope to do so once I get the furniture for the office.
That's all for now... | |
jbcg
join:2001-09-15
Milwaukee, WI
| Really nice buildout. Curious why you chose the keystone panels instead of a 110 or Krone punch-down given as you have a nice flip-down rack. Looks good anyway, though.
Suggestions:
1) Replace the zip ties with Velcro rip ties. If you don't want to pay the breathtaking price for purpose-made rip ties available on the web, you can pick up a roll of cheapo ones from Home Depot for about $5. They're all hidden, anyway. Velcro is easier on cabling than zip ties and makes it easier to add or rearrange cabling later.
2) It's been said, but I would definitely get at least one quad-plex outlet installed ASAP. A dedicated run right from the circuit box. Then from there, I'd run all 110 power cords on surface. Running them behind walls is not only potentially dangerous (though certainly not as dangerous as a dozen other things you might find in the average house), it just doesn't look professional.
3) On the other hand, surface mounted network cabling should be avoided if possible. For the access point (wireless router?) I would put a jack in the wall. There are a variety of good reasons, but the main reason is that it's consistent with the rest of your cable plant. You can get (or make) a shortie, 6" Cat 5e patch cable to get from the jack to the AP. Running the cable in the wall around that corner (with its 2 or 3 2x4 studs) might be a pain--you might have to run it up to the attic and back down. Also, the cable that carries the POE from the injector into the patch panel port should be a different color (I use hot pink) and labeled so you don't accidentally patch it into an outlet for a non-POE device. Most network devices tolerate the voltage, but you don't want to take a chance.
4) As sruser suggested, you should have a key of some sort for your jacks. You might think you'll remember which jack is which, but the day will come when you (or someone else in your house while you're away on business) will need to change a patch cable and you'll be tearing your hair out. A printed index doesn't look so cool mounted to the wall or whatever, but once you get your printer stand, you could just drop it in the drawer. I would also label each jack with a code like MBC1-1 for Master Bedroom Closet box 1 jack 1. FR1-1=Family Room jack 1, etc.
5) When labeling drop cables try not to use ephemeral designations for rooms. For example, the room you call a guest bedroom right now might have your den or your kids in there in a couple of years. Better to call it north east BR (NEBR1-1) or something like that.
6) Think about labeling your patch cables on the patch panel end with the port number of the router or switch. That way you can easily tell which link light refers to any given outlet. I like to use Dymo Rhino cable wrap labels with just a simple port number on them, but a Sharpie works just as well.
7) I would have left some patch panel openings for new cable runs. Sooner or later you're going to want a second cable to the living room for streaming video or to the kids' room for a monitor camera, etc. You've got a free space at the bottom, at least--maybe you could slide everything down and mount another keystone panel in there without messing up your cable management too much.
8) Is there a way the cable bridge (modem) could be mounted to either the top or the bottom of the rack? That would make its lights more visible and would conceal that big, ugly loop of cable.
Anyway, these are mostly minor or preference issues. Overall you have an enviable setup--much neater than the so-called structured cabling I see in most residences. Clearly you put a lot of thought into the planning and a lot of effort into the implemention.
Thanks for sharing these. The forum was getting pretty dead for awhile there!
Joey | |
boethius
Boo-Yah
Premium
join:2002-01-28
Winters, CA
clubs: | reply to Beezler
Quite nicely done. I've done a Leviton panel in my house and it has a few CAT5 drops in it but not much yet. | |
-
|
