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jakkwb

join:2009-04-27
USA

Oven wiring - help please

Hello all,

Our electric oven went out (after 14+ yrs of use), so I am replacing it with gas/electric one. The old one has black/red/white plugs. The plumber that I hired to run the gas line unhooked the old oven, so I did not get a chance to see how it was wired.

The wire coming out of the wall has black/white/bare ground. This is a very old house. I think the wiring was revamped in the 80s.

The new one is the same way, black/red/white plugs.

Can someone tell me how to rewire this?

Thanks!

Jakkwb



pike
Premium,MVM
join:2001-02-01
Washington, DC
kudos:3

What do you mean by "gas/electric"? It's usually either gas OR electric. Gas ovens may have some electronic components but generally no electric cooking surfaces. Your electric oven was probably wired for 240v and your new "gas/electric" probably requires 120v. More information is needed.


jakkwb

join:2009-04-27
USA
reply to jakkwb

It has gas burners and dual electric ovens. It has a 220 connection.



tschmidt
Premium,MVM
join:2000-11-12
Milford, NH
kudos:9
Reviews:
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3 edits

1 recommendation

reply to jakkwb

Since the new unit has: black/red/white/bare ground I assume even though the stove is gas the oven is electric.

If that is the case it operates from 120/240V, white is neutral, black and red are the hots.

The problem is grounding. Neutral and Safety ground need to be kept separate and only bonded together at the service disconnect. Stoves and dryers had a special exception for many years that is no longer in effect(except in grandfathered situations) that allowed safety ground to be bonded to neutral at the appliance.

I missed that you said the old wiring was black/white/ground. Since the old unit was all electric it must have used 120/240v. The only way to do that with a 3-wire cable is to re-purposed white as one of the hots and bare ground as Neutral. Before you mess with it need to check fuse or breaker cabinet to see is there is a single or two pole breaker (fuse) and exactly how it is wired.

I had assumed the unit came equipped with a plug, but whether it plugs in or is hard-wired the issue with neutral and ground is the same.

You really need to pull a new 3-wire/Wground cable rated for the current of the new unit.

/tom
fixed type


Zach1
Premium
join:2006-11-26
NW Minnesota

1 recommendation

reply to jakkwb

A picture would be most helpful in confirming what type of cable was used to run the existing circuit. From the description (B-W-bare) it's two-conductor with ground NM (Romex). It was never code-compliant to use the bare equipment grounding conductor in NM (Romex) to feed dryers/ranges where the frame is bonded to the neutral. The only cable with an uninsulated neutral permitted for 3-wire range and dryer circuits was type SE. Since the original circuit was never code-compliant and "grandfathering" doesn't apply, it must be replaced with a properly sized 4-wire circuit.

Yes, the oven can be connected to the existing circuit but doing so is a code violation and potential hazard so I'll leave the how-to for someone else to explain.
--
Zach



pike
Premium,MVM
join:2001-02-01
Washington, DC
kudos:3
reply to jakkwb

Oven stove


robbin
Premium,MVM
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX
kudos:1
reply to jakkwb

said by jakkwb:

It has gas burners and dual electric ovens. It has a 220 connection.

Ovens don't have burners. You bought a duel fuel range. (Stoves are a heating device).


mityfowl
Premium
join:2000-11-06
Dallas, TX
reply to jakkwb

Range.



cdru
Go Colts
Premium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7
reply to Zach1

said by Zach1:

A picture would be most helpful in confirming what type of cable was used to run the existing circuit. From the description (B-W-bare) it's two-conductor with ground NM (Romex). It was never code-compliant to use the bare equipment grounding conductor in NM (Romex) to feed dryers/ranges where the frame is bonded to the neutral. The only cable with an uninsulated neutral permitted for 3-wire range and dryer circuits was type SE. Since the original circuit was never code-compliant and "grandfathering" doesn't apply, it must be replaced with a properly sized 4-wire circuit.

Unless the previous range operated at 240v only and did not require a neutral. If it had a timer, clock, or an outlet that's probably not the case though.

Without at least pictures in this case, saying what is or isn't code or grandfathered is just guessing.