Technical > Home Improvement > Spray Foam or Batts

Spray Foam or Batts

We have a timber framed house with stressed skin panels for roof and walls. You are correct with foam fishing cables through the wall can be a challenge. The advantage is solid insulation is much better insulation and moisture control then fiberglass batts.

If you concerned about later access have you though about using fiberglass in the stud cavity and solid foam panels on the inside between the studs and drywall? That accomplishes several things it moves to dew point to the foam rather then fiberglass and minimizes moisture infiltration to the stud cavity.

/tom

reply to doechsli
A couple of options to consider.. You could future-proof the room by installing extra AC outlets, coax drops, ethernet drops, phone jacks, etc. Or, while you have everything open put in some conduit runs with outlet boxes so you can fish cable later. Just put blank faceplates on the outlet boxes to close things up.
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reply to doechsli
The difference between the two insulations is going to be DIY opposed to hiring an insulator. Even on a smaller wall area doing spray foam out of a can would be expensive compared to batts.

reply to doechsli
I always use foam where I can.

reply to VioletVenom
Spray foam is more expensive but it has a higher r value per inch. There is no reason that foam is not DIY. There are a number of companies which specialize in spray foam kits.

reply to Goober

reply to doechsli
Ok, I stand corrected, there is a DIY foam kit. Someone sent me a link to this.
»www.sprayfoamdirect.com/home-own···ications

So, it is available but up front cost is still expensive. Using their estimator, I estimated 240 SF (3x8x10). Came out to $931 for spray foam vs ~$140 for R-19 fiberglass.

I believe even the local hardware stores carry it. Our contractor got it through a big box store I thought. He used the stuff for our sunroom outside walls. It is expensive, but I think it's worth it.
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"You lie!" Talk about an understatement, Joe.

reply to VioletVenom
Wow, yeah, that IS expensive!

In any case, regarding future wiring, if you'd be running new wires in from the top you could glue a raceway like this »www.cableorganizer.com/surface-r···ards.htm behind the drywall, with a length centered in every second or third stud cavity. As long as you decided to put your new drop right between the studs you'd hit the open side of the raceway.

reply to doechsli
Here's an old thread on DIY spray foam.
»DIY Spray Foam Kit Review

reply to garys_2k
I think it's cheaper if you get it locally. Ours wasn't nearly that expensive.
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"You lie!" Talk about an understatement, Joe.

reply to VioletVenom

reply to doechsli
Bonus with sprayfoam; if you go with close cell foam of sufficient dept (1.75-2" I believe) it also acts as a vapor barrier...

I don't know if that's a requirement where you're at, but up here in Canada, it is - and the labour savings in not having to hang and seal the poly vapor barrier helps offset the increased cost of the spray foam...

As for DIY foam kits, they are out there, Tiger Foam (»www.tigerfoam.com/) is the one I'm most familiar with - comes in two tanks, with a set of hoses and applicator - works well, when you get the hang of it - but it's not cheap... If you have a substantial amount of foaming to do, it may be cost-neutral or even a better value, to bring in pro's. Worth a call, anyways...

reply to doechsli
Another option is add a 2x2 or another 2x4 onto the existing 2x4 thus extending it to add more fiberglass insulation. Yet another option is run a ton of empty conduit in the wall before you foam. Personally I'd extended the framing with another 2x4 to give you 8" of space then fiberglass with facing towards the inside and drywall over that. Cheap, simple, and effective.
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reply to Goober

reply to LazMan

reply to robbin
You're right, OP never gave dimensions. I was giving a cost comparison for X amount of wall space, I wasn't trying to give him a job estimate. You can pull those knickers out of your bum now.