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flash25631

join:2013-01-31

low idle corolla 2006 and vibration when brake

s you all may know i've had all the problems in the world after i changed the battery on my corolla le 2006 wih low rpms when atopping and after accelerating the car i feel a pulling on the car, below i will detail everything i have done and some new things:

I have wasted a lot of money and i'm almost getting reed of this issue by selling the car...

Throttle body cleaning ( upon manual that is available here in the forum) everything step by step

Intake manifold gasket change o the orange one

Checked all the hoses vacum leak and all of the ones in the break booster.

Perfomance for gas vehicules (lucas oil)

Changed air filter

Pcv valve (i havent changed it because my car is canadian 2t1 and i see i cant change it i dont know if i'm right or nt on that but it seema ita fixed to not be changed, you can correct me if its not right)

I've checked all the hoses one by one and taken them out blowed on them to see if theres anything broken and everything is well

Changed spark plugs oem toyota

Scanned with all the original softwares (techstream, inteligent tester)

Changed maf sensor

And everything is the same no changes when i stop the rpms still drop too much i am totally dissappointed in toyota i've reseted the ecu a lot of times and same everythings fine. Until the car warms up, i dont know what else to do. I' ve checked for a leak on every hose

Something i juat notices now is that when my foot in the brake they try to drop and come back up quickly seems like the ecu notices they are too low and they go up to normal and sometimes it does a big acceleration like a pulling if i may say it rightbut then they drop again.

It seems like the ecu responds slowly and also please note the exu was changed due to recall

Thank you much for all the help you have done for me so greatfull


Network Guy
Premium
join:2000-08-25
New York
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This may not help you but I've noticed with my Honda Civic under certain temperatures the engine idles very low. It almost feels like it's about to stall but it doesn't.

When engine revs itself back up like that, I think that's a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd check again.



Cho Baka
Premium,MVM
join:2000-11-23
there
kudos:2
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reply to flash25631

My suggestion would be to check the idle speed spec and see if it is actually dipping below the min spec.

My guess is that it isn't.

Can you post a snapshot of the concern occurring?
Make sure to flag the problem when it occurs.

Do you have any accessories on the vehicle?

Where are you located?
--
The talented hawk speaks French.


Tig

join:2006-06-29
Carrying Place, ON
Reviews:
·voip.ms

2 edits
reply to flash25631

A couple thoughts,
Measure vacuum. If low you can search for leaks by spraying Quick Start at suspect areas. If there's a leak it will get sucked in the engine and cause the RPMs to rise.
Other suspects; IAC Idle AIr Control valve and the previously mentioned PCV valve.



Juggernaut
Irreverent or irrelevant?
Premium
join:2006-09-05
Kelowna, BC
kudos:2

Quick Start is a bad idea around hot engine parts... really bad.


flash25631

join:2013-01-31
reply to flash25631

Hello,

Thank you for the answers. I have checked all the hoses and no leaks and changed the intake manifold gasket and everything is the same.

I have taken the decision of doing a live data of the vehicule with the diagnostic software on which is the original one from Toyota.

Here below find attached the images of when I feel that its going to turn off and when I stop I feel it more they drop down to 590-600. In those values that you see in the pictures the car is vibration, even though people say its normal it is not normal because the vibration is too strong and remember this vehicule does not have the iac valve everything is controlled with the ecu .

The corollas 2005-2008 dont have IAC.

»imageshack.us/g/28/datawithproblem.png/

Live data Corolla LE 2006.



Cho Baka
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join:2000-11-23
there
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Your engine idle speed is about 20 - 30 rpm below spec. I wouldn't call this a dealbreaker.
(Spec = 650 to 750 rpm)

I know you said that you cleaned the throttle body, but if this car came in for me, that is the first thing I would check.

Your long term fuel trim is at -20. This is a little unusual.

Do you have any accessories mounted on the vehicle, or have any parts been replaced with non-original parts?
What fuel do you use?
Where are you? (elevation, how far south, etc?)
--
The talented hawk speaks French.


flash25631

join:2013-01-31

3 edits

Hi, thanks for helping, if and cleaned the throttle body and nothing more vece improved, including a new maf sensor. if I think the vibration is so because the rpm drop too including when I feel shake when accelerating the fall too, all beginning to change the battery, it tells me that -20 fuel trim long I have some doubts, and read in several places that the fuel ratio sensor car is a bit flawed, but what I'm wondering is because I get the check if you have problems or that I recommend because the fuel trim -20, my car is completely stock no modifications and its support all new .. it is because the -20 I think the problem there walks

I USE GASOLINE PREMIUM IN MI CITY THE NAME IS PREMIUM

and remember this value is with the car running normally with sofware obd2



mattmag
Premium,ExMod 2000-03
join:2000-04-09
NW Illinois
kudos:3



I would not use premium grade fuel unless the owner's manual specifically calls for it. Engines designed to run on standard octane (regular) fuel can have many different operating problems when run on premium (higher octane) fuel.


number2

join:2009-01-22
Ogden, UT
reply to flash25631

said by flash25631:

after i changed the battery

If your symptoms started right after the new battery install then I'd try a different one. Sounds like a long shot but a defective battery can cause issues where everything is fine until the engine compartment has warmed up. The electrical system cannot be regulated consistently without a battery functioning properly. Which has the potential to make anything operate screwy.