How did I ever work without one? I picked up my first air stapler.. I assume arrow T50 staples are 100 per staple pack I pretty much fired them all off in about 3 min, I need it for a upcoming project I will be working on with some 1x8 lumber.
I was running at 60 psi, are wood dents from the driver unavoidable or should I lower the pressure a bit more?
When I was replacing some ceiling tiles I bought an electric stapler and man was that thing great! I can't imagine doing all those tiles with a manual stapler. Air sounds even better. If I had to do a lot more stapling I would look into that.
It can be done but it will take trial and error. You need to adjust the air pressure until you get the results you are looking for. Different woods will take different pressures so you may have to adjust the pressure if you change to another type of wood. -- I do not, have not, and will not work for AT&T/Comcast/Verizon/Charter or similar sized company.
One thing I can't figure out is it has an air leak near the front.. I will have to look at the manual to see if it's a gasket issue.
Reason why I got this one is because the other gun I have I noticed (my fault for not checking in store) 5/8" staples which are too big for 1x8 wood so I picked this one up because I can use 1/4" 6 mm staples. -- It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!
Air pressure is the only real control that you have while " in project ". Penetration is determined by type of staple and density of what the staple is going through .If the material is 100% consistent you will get uniform results . Unfortunately wood is far from uniform , so you normally may need to "play" with the pressure . Could you expand a little on what you mean by dents ? Is the staple getting buried more then you want , or are you seeing dents from the nose piece ? Forgot to mention , what you are stapling to the wood will make a big difference in settings . If it is a tough or rigid substance , you will get more consistent and better results than with a 'soft' substance .
If it seems to be from the nose piece , there are 2 main possibilities . 1 The plunger that drives the staple is projecting beyond the end of the nose piece when driving the staple . This will tend to look like a narrow straight line .Reducing air pressure may help . 2 The stapler is " bouncing " when you staple . This will tend to look more like a dent or gouge , and if you hold the stapler to the dent, it will look like it "fits" . If this is the case, hold the stapler more firmly against the wood .This might require a hand on top of the piston area, and is more prevalent with higher air pressure .
Have you tried a test using the actual material you are going to be stapling ? Depending on the top material , may turn out not to be an issue .
I've fired around 3,500 T50 staples from my wide crown pneumatic air gun for faced insulation and egg crate vents so far. I keep it at ~45 PSI so that it doesn't rip the facing/vents. Only real problems I've had is you need to oil it every 4-6 sticks of staples you fire or it starts to misfire. -- IF YOU FIND ANY MISTAKES IN MY WORK...Please consider that they are there for a purpose. I try to please everyone and there is always someone looking for mistakes!
BTW, T50 staples come in boxes 1,250 staples in strips of 100.
Or a box of 5,000 for those of us who need a LOT! -- IF YOU FIND ANY MISTAKES IN MY WORK...Please consider that they are there for a purpose. I try to please everyone and there is always someone looking for mistakes!
I have two brad nailers - a Milwaukee and a cheap Costco one. They've been useful when assembling those chipboard furniture with the thin wood backing as well as installing molding and trim. Really speeds up the job.