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ThatDarnBear

join:2013-02-16

[Connectivity] Comcast hates my gaming life...

So...where to start? I'm a complete novice, so please break the jargon down into bite size pieces.

Last Friday the Comcast guy shows up to install my cable modem and TV box. I only got the TV as part of a deal; I could care less about it. I just wanted my high speed internet, largely for gaming on a variety of platforms. The installer left before I could even get internet service through the crappy modem, but he assured me the one I was being mailed would resolve the issue if customer service couldn't.

Wednesday I receive the new modem/router all-in-one; an Arris TG862. After hooking it up, I call customer service (now my third call to them) and finally, after a lengthy call, the rep realizes the unit hasn't been provisioned. Shortly thereafter I finally get internet service on my PC (which is directly connected to the router via Ethernet cable). So far so good.

I connect my phone to the WiFi. I head to the living room to connect my PS3 and Xbox 360. The PS3 connects nicely to the WiFi, but will not connect to PSN at all. It keeps saying it timed out. I come into the bedroom to get on the PC and look for solutions when I notice Steam has popped up saying it can't connect. I start reading from Google searches that people have trouble connecting their Xbox to this router as well. I try to log on to the Secret World MMO. Won't connect to their server. At this point I'm pretty pissed, but the final straw came when I went to log in to my Chase bank account and I can't even do transfers or pay bills.

As it currently stands, I can't log into PSN, Steam, or the Secret World. My Xbox won't even connect to the network. Wiring the Xbox via ethernet cable is not really an option, nor do I think it would be able to connect to Live if it could connect to the network. The banking issue seems to have resolved itself, so perhaps that was unrelated.

Please...help me, Obi-Wan. My computing skills are comparable to my skills in the Japanese language: I know enough to get me into trouble, but not enough to get me out of it. I have seen some people referring to bridging but I'm not sure I full grok that concept. Do I just need to return this device to Comcast and buy my own, or are there things I can do to work around these issues?

If anyone can help on any or all of these issues, I'd be very grateful. I'm going through gaming withdrawal. Also, my cat peed on my couch. I think I'll try a different forum for that.



plencnerb
Premium
join:2000-09-25
Carpentersville, IL
kudos:2

Welcome to the forums!

For starters, lets take a step back and tackle one problem at a time. In your post, you mention a Phone, PS3, Xbox 360, and a PC. Each of those have different functions and purposes in your life.

Knowing you have problems with everything, my suggestion would be to start with the basics. You've told us what kind of Modem/Router you have (Arris TG862). If you could go to this web page from your PC, and post a screen shot of the signal levels, we could verify if everything looks good there.

»192.168.100.1/cgi-bin/status_cgi

Next, if you could provide how things are wired up. We know you have your PC plugged directly into your modem/gateway via a network cable. But, beyond that...do you know of any splitters between the wall that the cable modem/gateway is plugged into?

Once we have that, we can start to troubleshoot your PC issues. Once we know that things are working as they should with that, we can move on to your other devices (Phone, PS3, and Xbox 360).

As you have mentioned, there is a known issues with the xbox 360 and your specific modem (Arris TG862). Per this thread, the work-around is not to connect it via Wireless, but to hardware the connection.

»[Wi-Fi] Xbox 360s Wi-fi issues with Arris TG862/TG852

You did say that wiring the Xbox via a cable is not an option. However, at this time due to the known issue, its your only option (unless you swap out / replace the modem / gateway with another unit).

So, if you could provide a bit more information, I know the helpful people in this forum should be able to help you out.

--Brian
--
============================
--Brian Plencner

E-Mail: CoasterBrian72Cancer@gmail.com
Note: Kill Cancer to Reply via e-mail



tshirt
Premium,MVM
join:2004-07-11
Snohomish, WA
kudos:4
reply to ThatDarnBear

All of this info »Comcast High Speed Internet FAQ »How To Get Help! COULD help us help you.



egeek84
Premium
join:2011-07-28
Livermore, CA
Reviews:
·Comcast

1 recommendation

reply to ThatDarnBear

First off, high five to a fellow gamer! Ok, so I have that same gateway as well and there is a KNOWN ISSUE with that gateway not working with the Xbox 360. A workaround is to disable your wifi security until they roll out a firmware patch but honestly, you're better off going to your local Best Buy and getting a Dual Band 5ghz/2.4ghz router and having Comcast put your gateway into bridge mode. To have it put in bridge mode, just call 1-800-comcast and they can do it for you (or you can submit a request on the official comcast forums, comcast chat, or on here on Comcast Direct forum)

Now, just a general tip, gaming requires ports to be open. Make sure port forwarding is on and that your NAT is set to OPEN. I doubt this is the cause of your issue but I just thought i'd mention it.

But yeah, the Arris Gateway is just a HORRIBLE HORRIBLE device IMO. The wifi signal is poor and you're very limited to accessing settings on the device itself.

Try restarting your gateway as well. Sometimes when I connect a ethernet cord from my router to my PC, it doesn't get an IP address right away and I have to wait a few minutes or restart my PC and then eventually it works itself out.

I wish you luck bud, keep us posted. BTW, I own a 360, PS3, Wii, Wii U, PC/Mac and I also play The Secret World, game is fun! I'm also on Steam, feel free to add me if you want, "shockslayer84"



PeteC2
Got Mouse?
Premium,MVM
join:2002-01-20
Bristol, CT
kudos:6
Reviews:
·Comcast

2 recommendations

reply to ThatDarnBear

Yep, as egeek84 says, wireless gateways are worthless. Not just Arris...they all stink.

Most if not all your problems will be alleviated if you have Comcast put your eMTA gateway into bridge mode, get yourself a decent wireless router, and set up your own network.

The degree of user-control that you will have with this set up will enable you to not only have much better wireless range, but also make any adjustments needed for individual device connection much easier.
--
Deeds, not words



plencnerb
Premium
join:2000-09-25
Carpentersville, IL
kudos:2

2 recommendations

To follow up with what PeteC2 See Profile has said, its just not the Wireless part of the gateways that stink. The fact that it is a Combo device (modem and router all in one) is where the problem is.

Sure, you have one less device, and one less thing using power in your home, and if anything goes wrong with it, you throw it back at Comcast and have them fix it.

But, the up side to having just a standard "Cable Modem" or "Cable Modem with an EMTA" in it is the fact that it really is a "dumb device" that just passes information between the Coax and your local network. With your own router (either store bought like a Netgear or Linksys, or a self-built Linux System), you then have full control over your network, wireless settings, ports to open / close, QOS, and so many other features depending on the hardware you select.

So, I think then the first order of business would be to do one of the following

• Get Comcast to swap out your unit with a standard Cable Modem, and you go purchase a router (or build your own).

• Get Comcast to put your current device into bridge mode, and go purchase a router (or build your own).

• Purchase your own Cable Modem, return that POS back to them, and go purchase a router (or build your own).

--Brian
--
============================
--Brian Plencner

E-Mail: CoasterBrian72Cancer@gmail.com
Note: Kill Cancer to Reply via e-mail


ThatDarnBear

join:2013-02-16
reply to ThatDarnBear

From what you guys have been telling me and what a friend of mine advised, I'm starting to think getting my own to think buying my own modem and/or router might be the best way to go. I've never priced a cable modem, but since I'm paying Comcast $7 a month to rent it anyway it could be cheaper in the long run. While I do appreciate the suggestion to build my own, I can hear my buddy laughing at that premise even now, 600 miles away. "Technically adept" does not appear on my resume.

Since it seems I would need to buy a router at the very least to enter "bridge mode" (my bridge will no doubt include a Balrog standing on it) can you guys suggest a reasonable one? I'm in a pretty small one bedroom apartment for the foreseeable future, though eventually I won't be, so something with decent range. Likewise, I may as well look into a cable modem too. I have several big box stores nearby, and am fortunate enough to have a Fry's about 25 minutes away. I have Amazon Prime, so I can do online and expedite it pretty cheaply.

Thank all of you that have responded thus far. I guess once I get a new router I'll follow up further.


ThatDarnBear

join:2013-02-16
reply to ThatDarnBear

So..I went to Fry's and bought a Motorola Surfboard cable modem (SB5101U) and a Netgear N600 wireless dual band gigabit router (WNDR3700). I installed the modem using the Ethernet cable directly to my PC...figured I'd get that working before adding the router to the mix. It lights up all pretty, but doesn't connect to the internet. Do I need to contact Comcast and give them the new MAC number? Technology, I love you but how I hate you.

..and yes, the modem was plugged in and connected to the cable outlet as well.



egeek84
Premium
join:2011-07-28
Livermore, CA
Reviews:
·Comcast
reply to ThatDarnBear

said by ThatDarnBear:

From what you guys have been telling me and what a friend of mine advised, I'm starting to think getting my own to think buying my own modem and/or router might be the best way to go. I've never priced a cable modem, but since I'm paying Comcast $7 a month to rent it anyway it could be cheaper in the long run. While I do appreciate the suggestion to build my own, I can hear my buddy laughing at that premise even now, 600 miles away. "Technically adept" does not appear on my resume.

Since it seems I would need to buy a router at the very least to enter "bridge mode" (my bridge will no doubt include a Balrog standing on it) can you guys suggest a reasonable one? I'm in a pretty small one bedroom apartment for the foreseeable future, though eventually I won't be, so something with decent range. Likewise, I may as well look into a cable modem too. I have several big box stores nearby, and am fortunate enough to have a Fry's about 25 minutes away. I have Amazon Prime, so I can do online and expedite it pretty cheaply.

Thank all of you that have responded thus far. I guess once I get a new router I'll follow up further.

Honestly, you're better off keeping the gateway. It works really well as a cable modem/EMTA device. You can try hunting down a local Best Buy near you that would have a Comcast Connection Center but they don't sell the gateway you have now. In general, finding a EMTA modem is a little more difficult than your average Motorola cable modem.

As far as a router, I would go with either Netgear of Linksys Cisco. I personally own the Netgear N900 Wireless Dual Band router and love it. It does 450 + 450 Mbps on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz. Basically what that means is it has 3 internal antennas for each band, 3x3 MIMO. Getting a Dual Band router is important because the 2.4GHz band is very congested these days and since you're a gamer, you would want to connect on the 5GHz band where it's cleaner and less congested. Of course the only downside is that not every wireless device is compatible with the 5GHz band. Oh and if you do decide to get a dual band router, make sure it's a SIMULATENOUS Dual Band Router, that way you can use both bands at the same time instead of having to pick one. For example I have my mobile devices like my Smartphone, iPod, PSP/Vita/3DS on 2.4GHz and my iPad, Macbook, etc on 5GHz.

I also like this router because the internal antennas are amplified and really carry a strong wireless signal no matter where I am in my house. I live in a two story house and with the ARRIS Gateway, I would lose about 2 bars by going downstairs but with the router, I get full coverage pretty much throughout the house and retain the fast speeds.

Finally, as far as gaming goes, nothing beats a good old hardwired ethernet connection. I have my PS3/Xbox/Desktop connected through ethernet. Wireless (both 2.4 and 5GHz) is prone to interference, no matter how strong your signal is. Having an ethernet connection guarantees that low latency and avoidance of lag spikes which hardcore gamers are always conerned about.

ThatDarnBear

join:2013-02-16
reply to ThatDarnBear

Thanks for that info. As you can see from my prior post, I got the N600 Netgear. The 900 was a bit out of my price range, and I'm getting a $30 rebate on the N600. My buddy swears by Linksys but I have 4 dead Linksys routers. The dislike me. In my house from which I've recently moved, I had a Netgear N600 (the non-gigabit version) and I always had a strong connection on both XBL and PSN. In my new living situation it's just a better setup to have the PC in my bedroom and the consoles on my TV, which are on the other side of one wall, no more than 20 feet away. I don't think that setup will cause me any grief once I can get the modem and router up and running.


n_w95482
Premium
join:2005-08-03
Ukiah, CA

I have the WNDR3700 as well, it's a great router.

As for the modem, I hope it wasn't too expensive. While the SB5101 was a great modem in its day, it's quite old. A newer DOCSIS 3 modem would be a better investment.

Having said that, if the self-activation page (aka walled garden) isn't popping up on your PC when you try to go to any website, call Comcast and give them the HFC MAC address on the bottom of the modem. It shouldn't take more than a few minutes to get it online.
--
KI6RIT


ThatDarnBear

join:2013-02-16
reply to ThatDarnBear

Re: [Connectivity] Comcast hates my gaming life...still.

So, I called Comcast..spoke to a nice guy who was very helpful, or at least tried to be. The new modem was hooked up...he changed the MAC ID. According to the Comcast end of things everything was fine..packets going back and forth...modem good...my IP was good..everything was super apart from the fact that it just wouldn't get on the damned internet! After many tweaks, adjustments, and reboots, the Comcast guy and I threw in the towel and re-installed the Comcast modem. He said that he made some adjustments so I should no longer have the issue connecting to the PSN. Why I didn't make him stay on the line while I booted up is beyond me. I fired up the PS3 and viola...no PSN. So now I'm back to square one, more or less, apart from having a new modem sitting on the end of my bed that should be working despite that it's not and a router I haven't even removed from the box yet. I have to work in a couple of hours and still have things to do prior to going, so I guess I'm done tinkering for today. Thanks to everyone following my antics and trying to be helpful. I wish the new modem would work because I don't see the point of paying Comcast for one. Talk to you folks this evening.



plencnerb
Premium
join:2000-09-25
Carpentersville, IL
kudos:2

said by ThatDarnBear:

So, I called Comcast..spoke to a nice guy who was very helpful, or at least tried to be. The new modem was hooked up...he changed the MAC ID.

When you say "changed the MAC ID", do you mean on their end in their system (to show what modem you have connected), or actually change the MAC ID of your new modem to have the MAC ID of the one you were renting from Comcast? I hope its not the latter (if that is even physically possible), but I did want to ask just to make sure everyone who reads this is on the same page. I would think that the Comcast tech was making modifications to the equipment side of things on your account (as far as what modem you had connected).

said by ThatDarnBear:

According to the Comcast end of things everything was fine..packets going back and forth...modem good...my IP was good..everything was super apart from the fact that it just wouldn't get on the damned internet! After many tweaks, adjustments, and reboots, the Comcast guy and I threw in the towel and re-installed the Comcast modem.

When you were doing these test to get on the internet, what device(s) were you using? I would hope that you were using your PC connected directly to your modem via internet cable. If not, then I would suggest putting your store bought modem back in place and trying again. It is very important to make sure that the modem works without adding other variables into the mix (Router, PS3, xBox 360, Phone, wireless, etc). Once you know that things work at that point, then you can begin the process to add your router, as well as the other devices in your home and get them configured. Is it a lot of steps and work? Of course it is. But, to help rule out issues (Wifi not configured right, router not working or configured right, etc, etc, etc), it is best to start small (modem connected directly to PC), and work up from there.

--Brian
--
============================
--Brian Plencner

E-Mail: CoasterBrian72Cancer@gmail.com
Note: Kill Cancer to Reply via e-mail

ThatDarnBear

join:2013-02-16
reply to ThatDarnBear

Re: [Connectivity] Comcast hates my gaming life...

Hey, Brian...

Yes, I mean that he changed the numbers on his end from the MAC ID of the Comcast modem to those of my new Motorola. And yes, the test for internet connectivity was done from my PC which is connected directly to the modem/router and was connected to the new modem at the time. I didn't even mess with the new router yet, as I saw no point in adding it to the mix prior to confirming that I could connect to the internet. Hope that clarifies things. Thanks for looking in on my situation.



plencnerb
Premium
join:2000-09-25
Carpentersville, IL
kudos:2

No problem! Always glad to try to help other people out in this forum, and the others on the site. And I figured that they were making changes to things on their end in regards to the MAC ID, but just wanted to make sure.

It is interesting that your PC was not able to connect to the internet, even after everything "appeared" to be configured correctly as far as Comcast could see. Makes me wonder why it was not working. If your PC was able to get a valid IP Address, I would think it would work. If anything, I would think you would be shown the "Walled Garden" screen when you tried to access a given web site.

--Brian
--
============================
--Brian Plencner

E-Mail: CoasterBrian72Cancer@gmail.com
Note: Kill Cancer to Reply via e-mail



jbob
Reach Out and Touch Someone
Premium
join:2004-04-26
Little Rock, AR
reply to ThatDarnBear

Why an eMTA modem to begin with? Are you using Comcast Voice service for telephone? I don't think I saw this mentioned in any posts.


ThatDarnBear

join:2013-02-16

Not sure if you're referring to the Arris or the Motorola. I'm pretty sure the Motorola is not. The other is what Comcast sent me. I do not have phone service through Comcast.



jbob
Reach Out and Touch Someone
Premium
join:2004-04-26
Little Rock, AR

said by ThatDarnBear:

Not sure if you're referring to the Arris or the Motorola. I'm pretty sure the Motorola is not. The other is what Comcast sent me. I do not have phone service through Comcast.

If that's the case then wondering why they would send you an eMTA modem. I see no reason whatsover to keep that modem combo. eMTA modems are used for people with Comcast Voice. But looks like you've already moved on from that Gateway anyway.

As others have already mentioned it's usually just simpler to get your own modem and router. If you're still having issues though I would recommend just getting a Zoom 5341J modem or one of the newer Motorola SB models. You do NOT want the USB modem you purchased the SB5101U. You want a regular ethernet connected modem not USB.

And FYI whatever modem you hook up Comcast needs the model, serial number as well as MAC address of the device so they can properly provision it for use. The Comcast system then will download a configuration file to the modem to set it's parameters for use on their system with your provisioned speed.

There are so many routers available out there it's hard to make a good recommendation. But I would stick with Netgear or Linksys generally. Higher end models will have better firewall management which may help with any connection issues.

Of course this is all the Readers Digest version.


jbob
Reach Out and Touch Someone
Premium
join:2004-04-26
Little Rock, AR
reply to ThatDarnBear

See this list here: »mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/

For approved Comcast modems. I would look for those rated Docsis3 and IPV6. I would also look for those that are rated to work with 8 channels down to future proof things fully.

That's the other thing, your SB5010U is not even D3 rated. I can't believe no one here has mentioned the things I mentioned.

Guess I need to spend more time here. lol


n_w95482
Premium
join:2005-08-03
Ukiah, CA

I mentioned the modem, maybe reread the thread?
--
KI6RIT


ThatDarnBear

join:2013-02-16
reply to ThatDarnBear

I'm simply using what Comcast sent. I don't know their motivation. The Comcast rep asked for and received the serial number, the MAC ID, and the model number. As for the modem I selected I bought a recommended brand, selected from the Comcast list and price was a factor. I just moved and I really don't have the extra $50 for the next modem up. Based on the setup I had at my previous residence, which was slightly inferior to the items I bought, they should easily do what I need the to do. I've never had any issues being dropped or lagging much. I just need to figure out WHY it won't connect despite the fact that to all appearances it should.



PeteC2
Got Mouse?
Premium,MVM
join:2002-01-20
Bristol, CT
kudos:6
Reviews:
·Comcast

said by ThatDarnBear:

As for the modem I selected I bought a recommended brand, selected from the Comcast list and price was a factor. I just moved and I really don't have the extra $50 for the next modem up.

Unfortunately, nobody here would have recommended an old D2 modem...particularly considering your intended usage.

Even though the TG 862 is a puzzle for a guy without Comcast phone, at least it gives you channel bonding, something that you do not have in the SB5101U.

If it is not too late, I seriously would recommend returning it. Anything less than a D3 modem simply makes no sense.
--
Deeds, not words

Extide

join:2000-06-11
84129

1 recommendation

reply to ThatDarnBear

DEFINITELY Return that modem ASAP! It is only DOCSIS 2.0 as mentioned and you want a DOCSIS 3.0 modem. DOCSIS 2.0 is getting phased out and at this point is legacy technology.

Here is the short list of 'good' modems, these are all 8x4 channel modems, which is the latest tech on the market right now. These modems are all essentially the same so I would just go with whichever one you can get the cheapest.
Cisco/Linksys DPC3008
Zoom 5341J
Motorola SB6140/6141


The following are only 4x4 channel modems, which is still OK, but if you have the choice I would go for one of the 8x4 ones above, as it will be able to support much faster speeds, and Comcast is already using 8 channels down in many areas.
Motorola SB6120/6121

As far as a router, I am not sure what is good/not good these days as I use a pfSense box I built from scratch so I am kinda out of the loop on consumer routers these days.

Also, FWIW, note that the modem you purchased is essentially a 1x1 modem. It can only support 1 channel up and one down, while many of the latest DOCSIS 3.0 modems can support 8 channels down and 4 up. Especially on a crowded node that can mean the difference between getting your subscribes speed or not.


n_w95482
Premium
join:2005-08-03
Ukiah, CA
reply to ThatDarnBear

said by ThatDarnBear:

I just moved and I really don't have the extra $50 for the next modem up.

I figured this might be the case (not trying to make an example out of you or anything ), this is why I didn't press the issue too much when you posted the SB5101U.

If the SB5101U absolutely refuses to work (try calling in again, maybe a different CSR will have better luck provisioning it), then have them put the TG862 into bridge mode and connect the new router to that, then return the 5101. After a few months, consider one of the three modems that Extide See Profile mentioned and you can get rid of the rented modem then.
--
KI6RIT


PeteC2
Got Mouse?
Premium,MVM
join:2002-01-20
Bristol, CT
kudos:6
Reviews:
·Comcast
reply to Extide

said by Extide:

DEFINITELY Return that modem ASAP! It is only DOCSIS 2.0 as mentioned and you want a DOCSIS 3.0 modem. DOCSIS 2.0 is getting phased out and at this point is legacy technology.

Here is the short list of 'good' modems, these are all 8x4 channel modems, which is the latest tech on the market right now. These modems are all essentially the same so I would just go with whichever one you can get the cheapest.
Cisco/Linksys DPC3008
Zoom 5341J
Motorola SB6140/6141


The following are only 4x4 channel modems, which is still OK, but if you have the choice I would go for one of the 8x4 ones above, as it will be able to support much faster speeds, and Comcast is already using 8 channels down in many areas.
Motorola SB6120/6121

As far as a router, I am not sure what is good/not good these days as I use a pfSense box I built from scratch so I am kinda out of the loop on consumer routers these days.

Also, FWIW, note that the modem you purchased is essentially a 1x1 modem. It can only support 1 channel up and one down, while many of the latest DOCSIS 3.0 modems can support 8 channels down and 4 up. Especially on a crowded node that can mean the difference between getting your subscribes speed or not.

Great explanation, and good short list of recommended modems.

If the OP cannot afford one of the afore-mentioned modems, then truth to tell, there is no point in purchasing one at this time.

When money is short, buying "cheap" and getting obsolesence actually costs more in the long run.

Although the older Motorola SB6121 (4x4) may be found at discount, from what I've seen, it still costs as much as the Zoom 5341J which at 8x8 would be the obvious choice.

As for a router, the WNDR3700 will do as long as the price was right. It is IPv6 compliant, and has a good track record.
--
Deeds, not words

medbuyer

join:2003-11-20
kudos:4

1 recommendation

reply to ThatDarnBear

I wonder if the OP has a custom built machine or even an OEM one with an add on network card that's gone bad or the driver needs to be updated or something....

has the OP checked the diagnostics for the gaming consoles making sure that the old network configuration was erased or refreshed with the new IP address and such?

to the OP:

I understand being a little short on cash but sometimes going cheap can be costly in the long run. I would strongly suggest to return that SB5101 that you bought from Fry's [I can't believe they still stock it] and get a newer Doc3 modem.


ThatDarnBear

join:2013-02-16

So...okay. I totally get what you guys are saying about spending more in the long run, it's just a strain right now. Regardless, let me cover a few points. Please bear in mind my extremely limited technical know-how.

A) The machine is custom built, though not by me...by a friend who lives 600 miles away and is presently on vacation in Florida thus difficult to reach for technical support.

B) Though I'm a complete dumb ass, I'm going to give the Comcast guy the benefit of the doubt and say he has some notion of what he's doing. That said, the modem I bought was fully provisioned in every way he could tell. He had all the pertinent details about the modem. It was active and sending packets back and forth. He told my that my IP was good, which he explained meant that the computer and modem were communicating. I'm assuming (possibly erroneously) that last fact would imply that my network card was good. Also, the computer itself WAS connected very successfully to a different network just 2 weeks ago. I'm assuming this could be relevant where perhaps I made some setting error, but it also seems to support the network card is working fine.

C) Let's assume I return the modem and spend the extra $50 for the next Motorola model up which has most of the bells and whistles, though not all. I can only assume (yes, I've been doing a lot of assuming) that I will get the same result re: the actual access to the internet regardless of the speed. That is to say this perfectly brand new (though clearly inferior) modem did not appear to be the actual problem. The root cause seems to lie elsewhere.

D) As far as updating drivers..well, 'm simply unsure what drivers you suggest I update. I'm certainly not opposed to doing so if I knew which drivers you meant.

E) Regarding my consoles and their connection to the network (as I understood your statement): I went into the menus on the PS3 and connected it to the new network. It has no difficulty pulling media from my computer for example. What it CAN'T do seemingly is access the PlayStation network. This is somewhat curious to me as it WILL (after failing to log into PSN) access Netflix, so there must be some sort of internet signal getting through the WiFi, but something is preventing it from connecting with PSN. It would be my guess that whatever is preventing that connection is also what is affecting my ability to connect to services like Steam, and the Secret World. As far as the Xbox 360 goes it's been established in this thread and elsewhere that there is a known issue between it and the Arris modem/router i'm using from Comcast and it is simply not going to connect until some new firmware is released. This is somewhat disconcerting as I'm an avid Gears of War fan, and the new GoW game comes out next month.

So...summing up: This is what I know (or think I know)...

1) with the Arris device connected via Ethernet to my PC I can surf the net fabulously and can connect via WiFi to my PS3 and my Android phone. I can get Netflix through this setup but time out trying to reach the PSN. I cannot and will not (for the foreseeable future) be able to connect my Xbox without using an Ethernet cable, and even then I doubt it will connect to Live. I cannot connect to Steam nor the Secret World. I believe this is caused by whatever is preventing access to the PSN.

2) Bridging my new router (still in it's wrapper) will still cost me $7 per month..money I could be using toward the purchase of a better modem, and I'm still unsure whether I could connect the Xbox.

3) By rights, the new modem should have worked and doesn't, therefore something else seems to be wrong. Something completely beyond my limited comprehension.

Let's assume I'm going to get the better modem and connect it to the router I've just purchased. I anticipate the same issue will occur after provisioning. Do you guys have any suggestion about what might be preventing the modem from actually connecting at that point? It seems like once that issue is resolved, the other issues can be resolved simply by setting up the new router properly.

And last but not least...thank you all for your suggestions and input. I know at least one of my posts was a bit snarky, but this whole situation is very frustrating. I'm in a very crappy place mentally and emotionally right now and my major outlet for blowing off steam has been knee-capped. If I sound crabby it's not directed at you guys. And, no, I'm not one of those insane people that rages at other players while I'm online. I'm actually very friendly and more of a co-op guy.



PeteC2
Got Mouse?
Premium,MVM
join:2002-01-20
Bristol, CT
kudos:6
Reviews:
·Comcast

Hmmm, okay, if I may, just a few simple suggestions and choices to wrap this up if I may:

1. Return the SB5101U - period. It will not be a good solution for anything that you are trying to accomplish.

2a. If you can afford it, buy a Zoom 5341J, you can nab one at Best Buy for $79.95. Great modem, good price, modern and works like a charm for Comcast.

2b. If you can not afford $79.95 (and I can understand this!), then forget buying your own modem for now. Have Comcast bridge the TG862.

2c. Since you do not need an eMTA modem in the first place, a better solution would be to get Comcast to swap it for a simple D3 modem - not a gateway device!

3. Get Comcast to provision whichever modem from 2a/b/c as appropriate for your situation.

4. Now unwrap your Netgear WNDR3700, and set up your network.

Out of the choices (2a/b/c) above, I think that in the long run, 2a is best. You will save every month on Comcast's equipment charge, and this is a modem known to work very well with Comcast internet.

Now you have a "clean", very user-configurable network that should allow all of your devices to connect properly, and run at their best efficiency.
--
Deeds, not words


medbuyer

join:2003-11-20
kudos:4
reply to ThatDarnBear

just for the sake of troubleshooting...

1. return the modem and get a newer model.
2. have it provisioned and activated.
3. if possible, borrow a friend's laptop and connect it directly to modem and see if the connection will work.

let's tackle the gaming consoles later. we need to make sure you get basic connectivity via a pc or laptop.

i also wouldn't connect anything else right now like the router as this maybe beyond your ability or just not to complicate your basic setup.


ThatDarnBear

join:2013-02-16

Borrowing the laptop presumably to see if the problem is actually my PC?